Edens Sneldon

CUISINE SCENE

THE SAYING goes some- thing like: “It’s like bringing coals to Newcastle.”

Well, in this case, Newcastle _ brought something to us. Coals? — - no. A superb fishmonger of the best . kind? — yes! And he is Robert ~. Waggott of Waggoit’s Fish Market _ at Park Royal South’s Marketplace. ° - Trained in London, with stints in . the Channel Islands, Bermuda, and ' our Maritimes — he finally settled in Vancouver as executive chef at - the Kettle Of Fish. _On to joining Albion Fisheries (they supply our very best restaurant ‘and hotels), and then the grand “opening of Waggoit’s Seafood in December ’92, Lucky for us on the

fo .. North Shore to have such a treasure.

Just walk into Waggott’s..No fishy smell — ever!

“Immaculate surroundings, a gor- “geous mountain of crushed ice at the ~entryway showcasing whatever is

‘freshest (and most exotic) at the

“moment, : : I’ve seen skate wings, a gigantic

carp, barracuda and monkfish. Something new all the time... : ~. You'll most likely be greeted by Rob Noble. If there’s a friendlier face, I haven’t seen it. Rob was the

sous chef at the Kettle Of Fish —so’. .

" you are guaranteed expert advice _ whatever your question.

«Trust these guys. They know ; how to buy it, how to cook it, how to

store it at home and what to serve * with it. Just ask. : If you pop over r to Waggott’s

. now, you'll find fresh halibut °

“*. (through November), farmed

" salmon, the first'of the wild salmon, ahi (yellowfin tuna), swordfish, and local B.C. prawns in the shell.

’- Fresh scallops, hand- peeled shrimp, and lots more. The freezer case at the rear of the neat shop. holds all kinds of treasures (1 found those crayfish once for a New Orleans dinner), and the shelves hold chowder mixes, seasonings, and “go withs” for seafood cookery at home.

Waggott’s specializes in local

- fresh seafood, as well as fresh imports from New Zealand, Eastern ‘Canada and Hawaii. Hence the fresh finds such as orange roughy, moon- fish, shark, ahi, and mahi-mahi.

L asked proprietor Waggott for a few tips on bringing your fresh fish purchase home. He offered the fol- lowing guidelines:

Of course, same.day is best. Most

” customers buy fish to cook that evening. -

If your fish has been placed into | a plastic bag, open it up loosely when you get home before refriger- ating it. Hf left closed tightly, natural enzymes in the fish form a natural gas which creates that fishy odor (no harm, but not very ple; easant).

Best to store shellfish in a shal- low container with a cold, damp towel over the top. They need oxy- gen! Store up to two days.

Freezing defeats the point of buy- ing fresh seafood. It breaks down the fibres and texture of the fish, and the result is deterioration. Home freez- ers freeze so slowly, that they really cannot do the job properly.

(Commercial freezers blast- freeze properly, keeping the fish in top-notch prime condition.)

Avoid acidic ingredients like lemon juice and vinegar in your marinades — they actually cook the fish chemically (as in a Ceviche). Add only at the final moment before grilling, or after fish is cooked.

Don’t marinate fresh fish before grilling for longer than 20 minutes (never overnight!). Customers ask why their fish turned mushy — this is why.

I don’t know any nicer way of cooking fresh seafood than over a hat bed of coals.

Succulent flavor, charred outside contrasting with the juicy flesh inside, sizzling and waiting for a slab of flavored butter to melt over the top. Don’t overcook.

I’ve included recipes for some of my own favorites for you to try — savory butters, nice marinades and Waggott’s own suggestion.

Sc — whether you catch it your- self, are gifted by a fisherman friend’s bounty or visit your local fishmonger — do your next batch of fish or seafood on the grill.

Herbed Butters Keeping some. of these savory

. flavored butters on hand in the

refrigerator or freezer. makes. good practice for summer grilling and entertaining.

Simply slice off a big chunk

66 Avoid acidic ingredients like lemon juice and vinegar in your marinades. 99

ra

(chilled or frozen), and place onto a Sizzting piece of grilled fish or meat — right off the barbecue. Here are some of the most popular from my Canada Cooks! Barbecue cookbook.

After preparation, form butter

. into a log shape about 14” (4 cm) in

diameter. Wrap in waxed paper,

‘twisting ends to seal.

Store them, tightly wrapped, for one week in the refrigerator or frozen, up to two months.

Lemon Butter

Delicious used to top a sizzling piece of grilled fresh halibut or salmon right off the grill, Good for grilled corn too! Makes | cup (250 my

% Ib. (250 g) very fresh butter,

slightly softened 4 Tbsp. (50 mL) fresh lemon juice

Grated rind (yellow part only)

from 1 large lemon 2 Thsp. (30 mL) minced fresh

parsley —

Cream the softened butter in a food processor. Add the lemon juice, rind, and parsley. Process until light and fluffy.

Ginger-Lime Butter This favored butter is especially nice used to top a sizzling piece of

- grilled salmon, monkfish or, yel-

lowfin tuna. Makes 1 cup (250 mL).

“% Wb. (250 g) very fresh butter, slightly softened

2 Tbsp. 30 mL) minced or grated fresh ginger

2 tsp. (10 mL) grated rind (green part only) irom 1-2 limes 2 Thsp. (30 mL) fresh lime juice 1 small clove garlic, peeled and pressed

3 Tbsp. (45 mL) minced fresh

cilantro or parsley Freshly ground white peppercorns Cream the softened butter in a food processor. Add the ginger, lime tind, juice, garlic and herbs. Process until light and fluffy. Add ground pepper to taste.

Rosemery-Orange Butter Delicious used to top a sizzling awordfish steak hot off the grill. Nice over the accompanying grilled squash, onions, or corn, too. Makes 1% cups (325 mL). % bb. (250 g) very fresh butter, slightly softened % ec. ($0.mL) dried currants (soaked in warm water 10 min- utes, and drained 1 small clove garlic, peeled and minced 3 Tbsp. (45 mL) fresh orange juice Grated rind from 1 large orange (orange part only) 3 Tbsp. (45 mL) minced fresh rosemary leaves 1 Tbsp. (15 mL) Sherry wine vinegar Several shakes Tabasco sauce Cayenne pepper, to taste Cream the softened butter in a food processor. Add the soaked cur- rants, orange juice and rind, rose- mary and vinegar. Process until light and fluffy. Season to taste with Tabasco and cayenne.

Waggott’s Favorite Fish Marinade

Waggott shared his favorite fish.

marinade with me for this feature. 1 part light soy sauce’

3 parts olive oil

Grated fresh ginger (to taste) Crushed fresh garlic (to taste)

. Balsamic vinegar (optional) added

right before grilling

Whisk ingredients together (dou- bling or tripling recipe as needed). Brush over fish steaks, and let stand no more than 20 minutes before grilling over hot coals.

: Teriyaki Marinade A. quick 20 minutes in-this Japanese-inspired marinade gives

fresh salmon filets (prawns, too!) a

delicious flavor. Try it with flank steak, chicken and pork ribs as well. Makes 14% cups (375 mL). Keeps refrigerated for one week.

% ¢. (125 mL) soy sauce

% ec. (75 mL) peanut oil

¥% ce. (75 mL) Sherry

% ce. (60 mL) honey or maple syrup 2 cloves garlic, peeled and pressed

2 Thsp. (30 mL) grated fresh gin-

ger 4c. (75 mL) thinly sliced scailions Whisk all ingredients together in a food processor until smooth and emulsified. Store in tightly capped glass jar until needed.

Martini Marinade

My amusing name for a very good marinade using two classic ingredients for a martini — gin and vermouth.

Great with swordfish, tuna and prawns — and nice for game birds and pork as well. Makes 14 cups (375 m.). 4¢. (125 mL) gin 4c. (50 mL) dry vermouth 4c. (75 mL) olive oii 12 juniper berries 2 bay leaves, crumbled “” tsp. (2 mL) cracked black

peppercorns

COOKING IN TUSCANY Passionate about food & wine? Join Travel perts fora] week cut ello Viechiomaggiv in Gre «Interested? Come to ou Wed. June 8th at Opi. Tickets hy Jane 6 la Maureen, 926-8811. Anne Kirsebum te provide fan appelzers. i ratation hetd at our office 1796 Marine Drive, West Vanconver

NEWS photo Neil Lucente a a

ROBERT WAGGOTT (left): and Rob Noale. of Waggott Seafcod *- at The Marketplace at Park Royal South display the first wild salmon and fresh-cut halibut steaks of the season. Get. the ©.

coals going on the barbecue!

2 Tbsp. (30 mL) fresh lemon juice

2 tsp. (10 mL) finely grated lemon .

rind (yellow part only)

Whisk all ingredients together in a food processor until smooth and emulsified. Use as needed, marinat- ing fish no longer than 20 minutes before grilling.

Best-Ever Homemade . Tartar Sauce

Not just for. fried fish ’n’ chips! This delicious home-style tartar sauce is great as an accompaniment to grilled fresh halibut, salmon, or fish and vegetable brochettes.

Kids love it as a topping for coal-

roasted new potatoes. Makes about -

1% cups (375 mL). Light mayonnaise and sour cream can be used.

EDGEMONT VILLAGE Comer of Edgemont Blvd. + Queens

%c. (125 mL) mayonnaise .

4’c. (125 mL) sour cream *

%e. (75 mL) sweet pickle cli . completely drained . :

1 Tbsp: (15-mL) tiny capers, a drained 5

2 Tbsp. (30 mL) minced onion»

Several shakes Tabasco sauce.

% tsp. (1 mL) salt’ og

Ground black pepper, to taste

1 Tbsp. (15 mL) minced. fresh ao

parsley

-1tsp. 6 mL) fresh. lemon juice ;

Grated rind. (yellow part only) from 1 Jemon ; Pinch sugar and cayenne Combine all ingredients. in a small glass mixing bowl. Whisk smooth. Cover tightly, and“chill several hours’ or overnight before serving. Serve chilled. i

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