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CUISINE SCENE

THERE IS a tiny sign tucked in a corner of the office of Messieur Daniel Poncelet, founder and owner of Daniel i.e Chocolat Belge. it asks — “is there life without choco- late?” For this charming French-speaking Belgian, the answer is'a resounding no.

Last week | spent an entire day with Daniel himself — no easy feat, on this New Year's diet plan of mine! And, yes, there really és a Danicl.

And Vancouver should thank him for bringing the superb art of Belgian chocolate-making (pralines, as they are known in Europe) to this city first. That was back in July o 1981. :

Poncelet walked in at 10 a.m.

sharp with-an cnormous heart- shaped box filled with 750 gr. of assorted pralines. _ [studied the some 40 kinds of cliocolates offered in the glass case while Daniel popped the first chocolate of the day int his mouth ‘(uttering a moan of satisfaction).

A beautiful well-heeled clegant- ly attired lady walked in. Obviously a regular customer, she knew just what she wanted. She selecied some of the day’s: magnificent truffles. had them wrapped up in deep bur-

gundy and shimmering gold ribbon, -

and turned to feave.

.As she swung past the glass

doors, swinging the distinctive

. Deniel tote in hand, she turned and sang out enthusiastically, “These are the best chocolates in town!”

‘It is exactly that kind of devo- tion that has brought Poncelet a most loyal, appreciative, and unswerving clientele — myself included.

Daniel and his wife Monique came to Vancouver in 1981, follow- ing a trip here in 1979 when they “fell in love with the city.”

Daniel (a computer systerns ana- lyst) and’ Monique (a lawyer) lived

in the south of Belgium at the time. |

He admits that the times, back then, left something to “be desired.”

Daniel used to jokingly threaten Monique that he was “going to move to the Provence and grow tomatoes!”

Well, he changed his tune — and hers. They decided to move to Vancouver. But. what to do here?

Daniel -had noticed (on his visit) that there were no fine chocolate shops, even on the Robsonstrasse back in °79. No real up-scale choco- tates with clegant packaging and lovely shops with distinctive decor.

So he suggested “why not chocolates?” They pleaded (it wasn't easy) with a soon-to-be- retired master chocolate-maker in Belgium who had been at it for some.30 years. After coaxing and pleading, he gave in, Daniel and Monique spent cight intense months learning this fine art.

So... container packed, inimigra- tion in process, kids and chocolate

equipment and assorted moulds all packed up — they came to B.C.

One week after arriving, Daniel found a vacant shop on Robson and took it. They loved their new voca- tion (“We liked chocolate-making right away — chocolate is not dull, it fives —- we learn from it every single day.”) Daniel and Monique opened their doors to their new Canadian customers three months after arriving.

The first customer walked in, tasted a chocolate and purchased an assortment — right on the spot, Daniel reminisces, and tells me laughingly that he raced down the street to buy a cash register (“because we forgot to buy one!”).

That day it was 30°C with no air conditioning -— the chocolates were melting and so were they, “But our new Canadian customers were so receptive to our chocolates, were so nice and friendly, and all of this was so new to us. Our proudest day was when a customer thanked us for bringing our culture here ta Vancouver!”

Well, that was eight stores ago, a head office downtown, and many pratlines later. Daniel Le Chocolat Belge was certainly the forerunner here in Vancouver. Thank good- ness.

I asked Daniel (since we were all wondering) if chocolate is fat- tening.

His answer-was to the point: “The only thing with no calories is water. A really good chocolate is about the same as a small glass of wine or whisky.

“The trick is to spend the calo- ries of a really good picce of chocolate.”

It must work. Daniel eats them ail day long, and his sporty clothes fit him beautifully. Actually, he has a chocolate ritual.

“At about 10:30 am., I have a trou. (hole in my stomach), so ! have a chocolate first thing. Usually a solid chunk of dark Callebaut. Or maybe a piece of white chocolate.

“My afternoon chocolate is usu- ally our Espresso, followed by our Marquise. My last chocolate of the day, before heading home, is most likely a Dark Marquise or a cherry- filled Verdi.... ar both!”

As for Monique — she is a mainliner. She loves the handmade Truffles, cocoa dusted, with a crisp shell and a soft, unctuous centre. And she likes them the first few hours they are made, no later! Her eyes dance as she describes them to me.

When I followed Daniel to the

EDGEMONT VILLAGE Comer ot Edgemont Blvd. + Queens

earn you a kiss

oa _ NEWS photo Mike Wakelleld

DANIEL PONCELET, founder of Daniel Le Chocolat Belge, showcases a special Valentine’s assortment of premier chocolates at his beautiful shop at West Vancouver's Park Royal North. Don't forget sweets for your sweetheart on Feb. 14!

factory, | expected huge machinery cranking out conveyer belts of auto- mated chocolates.

No such thing. Everything is done by hand, as I witnessed. Fresh every single day.

Meticulous workers painstaking- ly filled moulds with siiken melted chocolate, tipped them after 60 sec- unds to release the excess and cre- ate the shell, then onto trays for hardening in a cooler.

Then, back to room-temperature to be filled by fad (with a pastry bag) with heavenly hazelnut cream, ganache caramel, or cherries with kirsch.

Chilled, tipped out at the precise moment by hand, and packed into pretty boxes. .

There were bunnies being read- ied for Easter, hearts oozing out all over the place, and those Truffles were driving me crazy. :

f was intoxicated by the heady chocolate-filled room. and. fascinat- ed by the history of chocolate that Daniel gave me.

And if you’ve never tried these chocolates before, where should you begin? With the best sellers, | guess, : And they rank (in order) the Milk Chocolate Mouse filled with

933-9330

[we reserve the right to limit quantities. Prices in effect frm Wed , Feb. 9: Tues Feb. 1594

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hazelnut cream with crushed wal- nut. Then, the Mitk Chocolate Snail with hazelnut cream. Then the Dark Chocolate Cream Ganache-filled Marquise. Then those Truffles filled with dark chocolate cream and

Cointreau. Then the Diamant of

White Chocolate filled with rasp- berry cream ... whew!

If you sull don’t know what to buy your sweetie for Valentine's Day, dent blame me. | know what | want (and hope that my husband is reading this feature closely).

Some of those truffles, a few Orangettes, a Mouse or two and lots of dark chocolate hearts. (The dici can wait for s few days.)

Danie! Poncelet shared his expertise and tips on chocolate.

Heat and water are the enemies of chocolate!

When worked the right way, chincolate should have that distine- tive crunch and snap when you bite into it, and a lovely: sheen which comes from the careful tempering (never add wax). :

Melt your chocolate (desired amount) very slowly ina heavy bot- tomed pan set over barely simmer- ing water. The chocolate should be chopped into pieces, by hand, first.

Then. pour about % of the melted chocolate onto a large cold marble

"surface (leave remaining 4% in pan,

“off the heat). Spread the chocolate out over

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