French

Sean O'Byrne Contributing Writer

T hesitated for a long while before putting this article to paper, not because I doubt Séte’s viability as a tourist destination, but because I am I!oath to share its beauty.

In many respects, Sete is just like any other seaside town in southern France: sunny open squares, old men

playing boules, sinfill smells emanating from bakeries. Burt if 1 could pick one spot in the world in which to spend the rest of my life, this would be ir.

France’s largest Mediterranean fishing port is offen called the Venice of Languedoc, after the canals lacing through the city. The Italian connection extends to the population: in the 17th century, large numbers of Italian labourers emigrated to Séte to assist in the construc- tion of the Mole St-Louis, a jetty built to protect the har- bour. Many locals still speak a dialect combining French, Tralian, and Occitan.

The top of Mont St-Clair affords a clear view of the Mediterranean to the south and the Bassin de Thau, with the town of Agde beyond, to the north. Séte’s watertront is a wonderful melange of fish- boats, small restaurants, and art galleries. A very satisifying day can easily be had just walking the streets and quays.

“To simply walk and look, though, is to get only the faintest flavour ofa place. Partaking of a culture requires

articipation. Our first item of Business in Séte was to locate the tourist office (wwwsete.org), locazed at 60 Grand Rue Mario Roustan —- follow the signs from the train station.

Although it is always advis- able to acquire a city map ahead of time ( Plans-Guides Blay are excellent and readily available), the one supplied by the burcau de tourisme is cer- tainly adequate. The helpful staff can locate accommoda- tion and have been known to change currency without com- mission. Here we were given a

Photo Sean O'Byme

NORTH view of Séte’s main canal — the French Mediterranean port is often called the Venice of Languedoc.

detailed listing of everything that was happening in the town.

Being a cycling aficionado, I was overjoyed to learn of a pro race that would finish in Séte during our stay. Other scheduled events included a_, raini-triathion and an exhibit of Jean Arp’s sculptures at the Musée Paul Valery.

The Mole St-Louis is a must-see for the nautical- minded. Extending seaward from the end of Promenade J. B. Marty, the Mole leads to a marina and the Saciété Nautique. Séte is the French development headquarters for America’s Cup racing sail- boats. The 1992 Cup chal- lenger, French Kiss, can be viewed in drydock from the Moie. At the far end of the jetty rises the city’s lighthouse: the perfect setting for enjoying a moonlit bottle of wine.

On the side of Mont St- Chir, overlooking the Mole, the Musée Paul Valery houses Setc’s history in picturcs and artifacts. One of the exhibits details Séte’s jousting tradi- tion, which dates from the 17th century. Every year in late August, the locals urn out to the canals to watch combat- ants tile at each other from raised platforms on rowboats.

The muscum’s other perma- nent exhibit details poet Valery’s life in words and pic- tures. Temporary art exhibi- tions are also hosted. The sur- rounding grounds afford a tremendous view over the Mole and harbour, and of the subject of Valery’s most famous pocm, the Maritime Cemetery.

If wine is one of your inter- ests, ask at the tourist office if Le Vignerai is open. This is not, despite its name, a winery. Rather, it is a museum of winemaking in the region, told through a serics of story- boards, films, models, and mockups, all housed in a string of underground tunnels and caves. The storyboards and films are in French, but corre- sponding handouts in various languages are available ar the entrance.

At the end of the tour, vis- itors are welcome to sample and purchase the various wines of Chateau de Moujan. As mentioned, check at the tourist office before searching out Le Vignerai. A couple who visited Séte shortly after we did found it closed but, since then, I have seen it mentioned in guidebooks. If you go, dress warmly. Séte’s climate is pleas- andy warm, but the museum’s

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tunnels are underground and the temperature is kept at 16° Celsius (61° F). If Le Vignerai is closed, avail yourself of the free multilingual tour and tast- ing at the Fortant de France winery. These underrated and inexpensive wines are widely available in Canada.

Although Séte is blessed with the Mediterranean cli- mate, it does have its rainy sea- son. The best time to go is between early May and late October: the waters off Plage de Ia Corniche are eminently swimmable through these months. And though Séte appears on the itinerarics of few non-French tourists, the town is a favourite vacation destination for the French themselves.

Good news for the North

American traveller, as accom- modation is plentiful and vari- ous. A youth hostel provides very cheap beds near the top of Mont St-Clair, while for those at the other end of the comfort spectrum, le Grand Hotel overlooks the main

canal at #17 quai de Tassigny. We staved in the comfortable and inexpensive Horel Tramontaine, at #5 rue Frederic Mistral, where a dou- ble room in 1998 cost FFI35 (about $45 CDN}.

The hotel is a block trom the wonderful daily farmers” market at Les Halles, and a block from the Hower market, with its whimsical octopus fountain. Other hotels of vari- ous price ranges are scattered throughout this area of town,

Given its status asa fishing port, it’s nor surprising that Sete is laden with inexpensive seafood restaurants, although other types of cuisine are also well represented. Promenade J. B. Marty is lined with cater- ies, serving sizeable portions of the freshest seafood you will ever mect (you can offen see the preprictors hageling with the fishermen along the water- front in the afternoon). Prix fixe ménus start at around FF60, wine included.

Stte is accessible by train directly trom Montpellier, Avignon and Arles to the cast; from Beziers to the west; and from other locaies with a transfer at one of these towrs.

Le Vignerai, if still operat- ing, is located on Boulevard Camille Bianc, northwest of the beach at Plage de la Comiche. Fortant de France (www-fortant.com) is at 278 Avenue du Marechal Juin, off the east end of the Pont de la Victoire.

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