32 - Sunday, May 16, 1999

CHIANG MAT: It used to be that Chiang Mai, an hour’s flight north of Bangkok, was but a base to explore the mountains and rivers, go trekking in the infa- mous Golden Triangle, commune with the hill tribes and inevitably ride an elephant.

Travellers would overnight

‘ina guest house, stash their valuables in the office safe, and set off on a ek. On returning there might be time to heal ured muscles with an invigorating Thai massage before a dash to the airport and home.

The routes out of Chiang Mai are still popular, almost certainly more so, but what is also happening is that trav- ellers are discovering that Chiang Mai itself is worth a closer look. It was in the city’s Red Lion pub that I saw the light, so to speak, making the acquaintance of retired British accountant Dennis Peacock who does walking tours.

So it was that the next morning I presented myself at the rendezvous, the office of tourist guide publisher Good Morning Changmat, where I learned more about Peacock. He has already walked the

The Heartiand of Wine Country

~ North Shore News

ae AS, Se pier ye

Chiang Mai.

entire length of Thailand and is part way through a project to walk all 76 provinces of Thailand accompanied by a former monk.

It’s a business that mysti- fics Thais, who see walking as something for the poor peo- ple. They prefer to take a cycle, motorbike or car, depending on what they can afford.

Nevertheless, off we went on a two-hour tour for 200 baht, which is $8. And if any

M.S. CEZANNE

N

Thailand’s sect

north shore news

DENNIS Peacock and walking client David Wishart in

Thais asked, J was on my way to the nearest Rolls-Royce dealer.

The first thing one notices about Chiang Mai is the weather, It’s cool, and a pleas- ant place to linger. About 5,000 Europeans and a grow- ing number of Canadians come here for the best months of November to February.

Living is cheap. A simple guest house can cost as little as $4 a night, a really nice

DELUXE RIVER CRUISING

"PROVENCE AND BURGUNDY

JULY 31, 1999

7 days from Lyon to Avignon

a

Cruise the Rhone River, stop in Macon, Trevoux, Chateauneuf Du Pape, Aries, and more...

Cruise for only $1,400 usp

(plus air)

926-4344

ROSEVV/AY TRAVEL

406-100 Park Royat South, Ground Floor, Black Tower “ www.rosewaytravel.com email: roseway@direct.ca

, Y Ask about speciai BCAA Cruise

nd cit

Chiang Mai 190 years ago “<“The:tovin has some nine hundred houses inside the. --inner.fort; but there are many.more than that number in: - the portion of the town inclosed by the outer fortifica- |: - ». tions‘and in what may be termed the suburbs, which are. :: built along the banks of the Meping River. The popula-—"* +: tion must not be judged from European examples of the |» “average number of the household, or even from that). 7 ._ found in neighbouring countries, such as Burmah. In: “.Zimame the household often contains thirty, or ever’

= people under one roof at night.”. - eee E Chapter

the Shas” by Archibald R

7 A Che, ter from “Amongst he Caigsbones Drinted ix 1885, describing a visit Mai

place $40. The Regent will cost 10 times as much but it might be the closest thing to nirvana on earth.

Chiang Mai is a livable city of just 160,000 people. Getting around is easy, biking is a good way to go, and tuk- tuks (three-wheeler taxis for two) cost pennies. Despite fast growth it has retained its charm, largely due to the gen- ue, soft-spoken locals who also happen to be Thailand’s best crate workers.

Just as Lyon could be a better place to eat than Paris, you'll compare Chiang Mai favourably with Bangkok. At the Galare market, near the Night Bazaar, there is a night- ly tood fair with Thai, Indian, Chinese and Indonesian dish- es. Thai dancing and boxing, although not at the same time, happens under the stars. A meal with a beer is about $4. You can also dine, with music, by the river, endure the traffic noise at the over- rated Good Earth, or slide out to the Regent and see the sun set over the best tended paddy field on the planet.

Long before tourists came

here Chiang Mai was coveted for its rich crops of rice. A 13th century king built walls around the city, some parts of which remain, and 2 moat, which is very much in evi- dence but did not stop the Burmese invasion of 1556 which lasted for 200 years. Latterly the mountains pro- duced opium but an initiative by the present king has encouraged the hill wribes to switch to vegetables, fruit and flowers.

As a result the markets of Chiang Mai offer many of the 100 tropical fruits in Thailand, sprays of 20 roses for $4 and fresh strawberries in February. If you know where to look, and Dennis Peacock does, there’s a hand- some Chinese temple, all red and gold and bristling with dragons, tucked behind some flower stalls.

’ Chiang Mai can of course be explored on one’s own, but the beauty of Peacock’s tour is that he has not only done the research but has

lived here and has all kinds of —

local current knowledge on restaurants, cooking schools

XURY CR *.

LE cepts Lt VBA —_ A

cross Canada

See Canada on a Luxury Train: The American Orient Express + 10-day “Great Trans-Canada Journeys” between

Vancouver & Montreal

from $7,385 Cdn.

+ 5-day “Quebec & the Maritimes” Montreal to/from Halifax......from $2,799 Cdn.

July —- Sept. departures. Book now and receive free overnight hotel in Montreal.

Ambleside Office Phone 604) 926-851 I

"EUR ONTIERGE

se A

prices in Canadian dollars.

Edgemont Office Phone: (604) 986-2262

Free upgrades! «¢ BCAA Member Prices! __

worth the trip

and massage training.

One very useful piece of information for budget trav- cllers whose guest houses don’t have a pool is that for $2 they can have a swim at the Poolside Bar at the Prince Hotel. It’s also a stop on Peacock’s tour.

For more on Chiang Mai, and Thailand, check Peacock’s Web site at <www.escati.com>.

The Regent, which offers a sublime resort experience, Thai cooking school, nearby golf and excursions to the mountains (if you can tear yourself away) has a Web site at <www.rih.com>.

Canadian Airlines flies direct to Bangkok via Hong Kong fron: Vancouver.

CON $1800pp/dbI 15 days/13 nights

Selected departures dazing May, June,

daly & Augast

1 * Bangkok - 3 nights at the 4 Star Pathumwan Princess Hotel. Daily breakfast.

* Phuket - 7 nights at th 4 star Patong Beach Hotel. Daily breakfast.

* Hong Kong - 3 nights at the 4 star Miramar Hotel. Daily breakfast. 4 day ferry & fram pass plus discount shopping voucher.

* Cathay Pacific Airways -. roundtrip airfare from Vancouver te Bangkok & Hofig Kong. Bonus —- earn 14872 frequent flyer points!

* Plus - all hotel & airport transfers, airfare between -

Bangkok & Phuket,half-day § . sightseeing tour of Bangkok. J