Photo David Wishart

- BOATS REST ashore during low tide at Bon Nuit Bay on the island of Jersey.

Channel Islands boast friendly interesting history

faces and

THE AIR UK flight from London’s new Stansted air- port to Jersey carried a mix- ture of travellers: middie- aged British holidaymakers in tweeds and mail-order ‘skirts, plus pin-striped businessmen clutching ex- peusive briefcases.

The former were there to spend

’ ‘money, the latter to make it, for

the Channel Islands, of which Jersey is the largest, have become a major banking centre with not too many taxes or questions about where you got your Lolly.

The 84,000 residents of Jersey guard their 45 square miles jeal- ously, and if you want to move here you have to show you are seriously rich, like recent arrival, golfer lan Woosnam.

He plunked down $2 million for a house, joining a number of

— other tax exiles such as author Jack Higgins.

In the old days the Jersey folk had to go looking for money in faraway places like the Grand

- Banks.

Fortunes were made between the 15th and 18th centuries and fish- ermen built what were known as cod houses. Many emigrated to

- the Maritimes.

Others grew apples for cider, and when Jersey knitting became fashionable the sound of clicking needles was like thunder; in 1606 a law prevented islanders from knit- ting during the harvest.

Jersey used to be famous for its tomatoes, but when other coun- tries started to produce them for less, the resourceful islanders sim- ply switched crops; now the em- phasis is on flowers.

Today tourism is the main business after banking.

The industry was built on waves of Britons who wanted to experi- ence the Continent without having to put up with the French, but of late many Europeans have been making the 14-mile crossing from Normandy io experience these unusual islands.

They were part of the estates of the Duke of Normandy, who became William I of England after the Battle of Hastings in 1066.

But more than a little of France has rubbed off, with many French names on the islands and much admirable cuisine that owes more to Burgundy than Bradford.

A drive around Jersey, just 40 miles with a maximum speed of 40 mph, reveals a tranquil island with spectacular scenery, towering cliffs

avid

TRAVEL TIPS -

and bracing seaside walks, as well as lush fields with cattle that have made the island synonymous with rich cream.

The islanders are exceptionally friendly, speaking English with a faint expatriate accent, and have a ready sense of humor.

When somebody asked why some cows wore coats, and of different colors, the bus driver said cows in grey coats were preg- nant, a cow in a green coat likely would be a farmer’s prize beast, and the one in the fur coat was his wife.

The Occupation was a grim business; for the first time a part of Britain was under enemy rule and the Channel Islands were turned into German fortresses.

Thousands of imported slave laborers toiled on projects such as the German underground hospital, now a compelling monument to the brutality of the invaders.

Brave islanders who sheltered runaway Russian POWs were sent to their deaths in German con- centration camps, while young men perished in the violent surf while trying to escape to join the Allies.

Many of the coastal gun emplacements have been left as

nonuments, but today they look out over blissful bays where pot- ters collect a rich harvest of lobster and crab.

We dined one night at the village bistro at Gorey Harbour, which lies in the lee of the huge Mount Orgueil Castle.

Jersey is long on very good res- taurants and the prices are sur- prisingly reasonable.

The main town is St. Helier, agreeably quaint and with good pubs such as the Admiral, whose old timbers give it the feel of the

sort of place where cod fishermen had their last ales before setting sail for Canada.

The barman confessed it was just nine months old — proving perhaps that banking may have these island rolling in money, but they haver’t lost their touch in keeping the tourists happy.

Getting there: Canadian Airlines to London, then Air UK to Jersey.

Don’t forget to stop over in London to see a show/see the Queen/get over jetlag.

Most vistiors to the Channel Islands rent a car, which means driving on the left. This works, to a degree, in Jersey, but in Guern- sey, which is half the size, the toads are so narrow that all you get is the middle.

A keen eye is required, therefore, along with much pulling

See Guernsey's page 44

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