Expl Toni Dabbs Contributing Writer “It seems like a long way to go to look at ice and . penguins,” said an acquaintance when I told her I was going to Antarctica. It wasn’t the distance that bothered me, though. I was con- _cerned about rufiling the feathers of the tuxedoed birds. ’ As it turned out, I needn't have worried. The penguins took ‘me and my shipmates i in stride as if we were large rocks or slum- bering seals waddling around us with indifference or approach- _a ing us with cautious curiosity. I ‘was. visiting Antarctica with Marine Expeditions, a Canadian tour operator that specializes in natural history cruis- es to the Antarctic (November through Mareh) and the Arctic (une through September). As a member of the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators (IAATO), the compa- ny promotes safe and environmentally responsible tourism to the white continent. TAATO members ask passengers not to approach within five ‘metres of penguins, seabirds and seals and to give the animals «the right of way at all times. The animals, on the other hand, have. no rules, and penguins showed little reluctance to approach those of us who stood quietly observing. Although the phrase “no guarantees” was never used by “Marine Expeditions, the itinerary for our three days in Antarctic waters was vague and pre- departure information stated “ever _ changing weather, ice or political circumstances often dictate” ' ‘No Jet-Lag™ small. ‘tableis for forty. hours « combined ingredients for up to. sixty hours of ". Felief fom motion : sickness $15.99 While’ Quantities Last. : RETAIL: STORES SINCE.4984 | “ot Richmond Centre South 1248 - 6551 #3 Road» “i Richmond ” 276-2606 Os oo) i oa tak attest eat ae the ship’s route and shore excursions. “This is expedition cruising. We go with the flow.” we were reminded our first day at sea by Laurie Dexter, expedition leader for our cruise. It was his responsibility to coor- dinate with = Captain Nikolay Apekhtin where we could safely anchor and take the Zodiacs to shore. Dexter, who holds the Order of Canada and calls the Northwest Territories home, is well qualified to lead expeditions in. both the Arctic and Antarctic. He was a member of the 91-day Soviet-Canadian Polar Bridge ski expedition from Russia to Canada via the North Pole, he has completed a ski crossing of the Greenland ice cap, and he is planning to ski across Antarctica. One landing each day took us to the rookery of a different species of penguin: the white browed gentoo; the button-eyed Adelie; and the aptly named chinstrap, which has a ribbon of black-running from its black crown around its white face. All three sites had penguins galore, including large numbers of downy chicks. A cruise of Paradise Bay took us beneath a sheer cliff streaked turquoise with copper and red with lichen, where a colony of imperial shags (cormorants) was nesting. We landed at nearby Almirante Brown Research Station, an Argentine facility aban- doned in 1984 after the team’s dactor, having been told-he would have to spend a second year ar the isolated station, set it afire." On another day, we called at the active Akademik Vernadsky Station, established in 1996 near Britain’s now abandoned Faraday Station, which was first to alert the world to changes in the ozone layer. We also visited Deception Island, actually a collapsed volcano that still generates enough thermal activity to make bathing ‘Thinking About | -A Cruise Holiday? “Join us for. a “Travel Talk” that answers your “ questions:& provides “insider” information. “ST ips for First Time Cruisers” ; Thursday, Sept. 14, 7:30 p.m. - 1716 Marine Drive, West Van. Limited seating. Please call to reserve. . ” Ambie de Office:. = BC Reg, #3404-2 Edgemont Office: 986-2262 Passengers explore the deserted Almirante Brown Research Station. ing Antarctica, the white conti photo Toni Debbs along i its beaches possible. We wandered among the remains of a British hangar and airstrip, from which the first powered fligh over the continent of Antarctica was made-in 1928, and th ruins of a Norwegiare-Chilean, whaling -Statio that, ‘closed: i See Ideal al following page: A Disney cruise vaca- tion brings out the. child in everyone. Whether it’s a seven- night Caribbean cruise or a. ‘seven-night land and sea vacation the trip is sure to dazzle everyone involved. Roseway Travel is hold- ing a Disney. Family. Cruise ‘evening Tuesday, Sept. 12° at 7. p.m. in their West Vancouver offices, . ~ #106-100 Park Royal South: 2 - Cruise specialist Iain Perkins will-discuss the . charms of a Disney Cruise Line vacation and outline - what to: expect on board: . ship. ° . . : The seven- day. Caribbean cruise includes :. stops in St. Maarten and St. Thomas, shore excur-" sions to St. John and a day vat Disney’s own private *: island Castaway Cay. « “Throughout the’day wa = NTROBUCTORY SPECIAL ~ Book and pay by September 39 " leveryone including oral - parties, seminars and ‘sports activities. ; Activities on board ship in the evening include first- run films, karaoke nights, ‘| cabaret shows and dani "theme nights... Disney also-produces ~ special events for kids, ., teens and: parents,’ The Disney evening is. the first of several. presen - tions scheduled at Roseway’s offices this fall. - On‘ Tuesday, Sept. they’ will talk about cruis ing South America. Sept. 26 the topic:is ry cruise tour of the -Oct.:3 discusses clipper: cruising the Grea B Reef and Nov.:21 ri cruising and small shi : cruising. Admission is, $5 _ For more information on the upcoming cruise events contact:Roseway at