12 - Sunday, August 11, 1991 - North Shore News Fall fashion preview dandy Hall three-piece suits. Christian Dior's (Paris) dandy FASHION STATEMENTS DESIGNERS SWING both ways this fall. Not being faithful to any one look, they introduce styles that lean from one extreme to the other, and sometimes give mixed messages. The fashion icons from New York, Milan and Paris dish up a dizzying sum of sithoucttes and proportions, sure that at feast ONE of the styles will suit every taste, Just as you predict that body- conscious and fitted shapes prevail on the runway, designers throw a curve, sending out models in loosely falling shapes that fly away from the body. When you feel there is no turning back from short hem fengths, suddenly many designers go tong, proclaiming that skirts are definitely edging their way down to mid-calf and lower-calf lengths. At the same time as you are telling yourself that femininity and frivolity are the key messages in fall collections, designers change directions, offering relaxed men’s wear-inspired jackets with extra- Jong, cuffed trousers, dandvish outfits, and streetwise black leather bombers. The news in a nutshell: © NEW YORK: Fabric texture and design become just as important as clothing shape, in traditional wool weaves, cashmere, bright plaids and solids, plastics and ‘eather. Peplums sprout from many jacket waists, adding a fit ‘n’ flare trend. Designers show a patriotic bent, with American themes ranging from the Amish heritage to the hobo. Short is still popular, but slowly moving its way over the knee. Zippers are the detail of the season, shown on jackets, coats and dresses. The pant suit makes a bold return in glamorous fabrics and styling. And, coats are given new emphasis in trench and peacoat shapes. * PARIS: Hemlines hit new highs and lows. Shape is everything in these collections, showing lots of asymmetrical cuts, full blown skirts, architectural-looking jackets or wide trapeze shapes with structured hemlines and °50s hourglass sithouettes. Designers go for plaid, showing it in jewel- toned taffeta, bright fuzzy mohair, sophisticated suiting and traditional tartan looks. Extraor- dinary colors begin where summer left off, as the newest neutrals become red, yellow and royal. *MILAN: Take a few thigh- climbing skirts on sizzling suits, cigarette-slim pants, serene neutral colors mixed with off beat brights, loads of A-tine and trapeze shapes that fall away from the body, and stretchy, fitted shapes and you will have an Italian fall. Designers feet that softness is an important trend, showing stretch velour, Stretch satin, angora, mohair, silk and cashmere in a variety of treatments. Here is a front row fashion guide to the top ten trends parad- ed on the runways in New York, Paris and Milan for fall °91. They are some of the best and the brightest colors, silhouettes and themes that sum up the season ahead. * PLAID: Tartans are covering designs on both sides of the Atlantic, in) day wear, business and evening wear. It is updated for the *90s in wonderfully bright colors and rich fabrics. Oscar de Ila Renta (New York) features plaid in his suits, coats, knitwear and cocktail dresses. Emanuel Ungaro (Paris) shows fun plaid kilt in longer as well as short lengths with a fitted velvet jacket. Christian LaCroix (Puris) adds a psychedelic jolt of color in over-sized mohair coats, mini- fength in fuchsia and red over a Jacki O cropped jacket in gold and fuchsia window pane checks. Gianni Versace (Milan) keeps it casual in a brightly knitted coat- sweater, mock turdeneck and mini skirt in different plaid patterns mixing yellow, green and purple. Yves Saint Laurent (Paris) dresses plaid up for evening in a jewel- toned taffeta gathered mini skirt. © SKIRT LENGTHS: Skirts are stretched to mid calf and even a few inches below the calf, to show the beginning of a return to longer hemlines. Minis are still popular with designers, however, and many show both lengths in collec- tions. Short skirts are still prominent at Yves Saint Laurent, though he also shows same longer, narrow skirts with suit jackets. Emanuel Ungaro, who designs many longer skirts on dresses and suits, prefer- red short minis for evening. Going to extremes, Claude Montana (Milan) prefers a suit with a skirt that is actually shorter than the partially open jacket. At the other end of the measuring stick, Christian LeCroix’s crop- ped, fitted jackets are worn with full blown balloon skirts in taffeta that reach well below the calf. *MANNISH LOOKS: Men's wear-inspired looks run the gamut from military styles and dapper to updated Annic and slouchy looks ensembles jacket has sophisticated touches with large turn-back cuff, flap pockets and tails in forest green wool, worn with leggings and an ascot. A dandyish jacket is teamed with a man's olive suit vest and trousers at Norma Kamali (New York). Yves Saint Laurent shows a traditional grey flannel suit with a six-button, double-breasted jacket that is styled for a man, but worn by a woman with frankly feminine accessories. A military coat dress is shown by Chanel (Paris) with multiple brass buttons and a large medallion at the neck. * FIT AND FLARE: Feminine shapes that are fitted at the waist, then flare out at the hem are especially popular in jackets and dresses. Draped hemlines and peplums often result from the look. Claude Montana’s bright yellow Mod Squad of the '90s suit is cut in a streamlined fabric. It has an asymmetrical front closure with a zipper that continues up to a tur- Ueneck, and slanted pockets. Gianni Versace designs a pretty halter dress with a low V-neckline that is cinched at the waist, then flies outward to a double-fluted mini skirt with multi-colored panels, * LOOSE SHAPES: Designers cut See Chanel page 13