From page 82 Ursuline monastery in 1642, a few years after it was estab- ~ lished. A few. blocks towards the river, on the top of the cliff known as Cap Diamant, stands the mammoth Chateau Frontenac, replete with tow- ers, turrets and green copper roofs, Once and always a lux- ury hotel, its guests have included Churchill, Franklin Roosevelt and © Queen Elizabeth. By alf means join a daily hotel tour, but be sure to make your way up to Artillery “Park and the star-shaped a “ Stadelle, the central part of a “torraidable set’ of fortifica- tions that has encouraged for- . tign writers to call Québec City. “the » Gibraltar of America.” . ; -- Weather permitting, the 22nd... Royal (VanDoo} Regiment: performs ». spacious «field. within. the “ Civadelle, an impressive per- formance, that. includes. a marching band and a‘three- . year-old mountain ‘goat that serves as the regimental mas- cot Afterwards, visit the muse- um ‘in the Citadelle’s former’. . powder house and prison, and explore.» the | meticulously maintained .225-acre - land- scape known as Battlefields -: ‘history. book. Park.’ “Really 2 «isn’t that ° interesting, but “when: you walk right in it —: that’s: .. different,”* says Michelle ‘as we stand on the. grassed site: of the ‘series of battles ‘thar ultimately led to the French : defeat. - Visitors. revel Jin the cannons, ‘ram- parts, forts, statues; museums, - “films and guided tours devot- ed-to the city’s military histo- - ry. the, ': changing of the guard in a’. If ail this scerns a little seri- ous, walk down from the Citadelle and along the his- toric wooden — boardwalk below the Chateau Frontenac, Pause to soak up spectacular views of the river, . then deseend the funicular railway or stairway to the Quartier Petit-Champlain. Said to be the birthplace of New France, this old-world tangle of pedestrian-only lanes is filled with bars, cafe's’ and stores specializing in distinctly French Canadian design and artifacts. Next door to Quartier Petit-Champlain -is Place Royale, a large cobblestone square flanked by the former homes of wealthy merchants and the small but charming Norre-Dame-des-Victoires, the oldest church in Quebec. A’ Samuel” de Champlain look-alike wanders the square. A crowd. gathers around a busker playing ringing tunes on a cluster of brandy snifters.” Other visitors stand in front of; ‘a. trompe-Poeil painting fea- turing the city’s. celebrated personalities.. Most passersby sidle up to one of the figures . in this masterpiece of public . art to have their photo taken. Nearby ‘is the . impressive « Musée de Civilisation, where “yn fewer than 10 exhibits are always “running, | including (uncl March .. 2091): one devoted to the well-developed French Canadian : sense. of - humour... After. visiting the . -museum, walk along Rue Saint-Paul, lined with antique stores, or take: a one-hour _ ferry tip across the river.to back up te Upper Town and the Renaissance-styled parlia- ment buildings, beautifully sited on a large park just out- side the most picturesque sec- tion of the wall encircling the ald city. Guided tours of the lepisla ve complex are avail- able year round, and visitors are. welcome in the National Assembly Chambers. the town of Levi and = back. FF The voyage is a picasant way to mix with: the locals,‘and offers a different. perspective of ‘the fortified - city.’ and Chateau Frontensc. Finally, make your. way - Along side the Parliament Buildings runs a boulevard known as the Grande Allée, Quebee’s answer to the Champs d’Elysées. Sitting at dusk in a terrace café with a slice of maple syrup pie and coffee at hand, 7 watch as the caléches clip-clop out through the Saint-Louis) gate and along the Grande. Allée. eri bound to their presumably pristine stables. ; Tf you go: For information — on Québec City and the sur- rounding region (including Monimorency Falls, the He. @Orléans, and Sainte: Anne-. de- -Beaupré), call 418-649. 2608 or visit . The above Web site includes details of the Québec © Winter Carnival 2001 open- ing Jan. 28 for 17 days of fes- tivities, including the annual International Snow Sculpture Shew and the Canoe Race. For more on the Musée de ta Cwilisation and other cul- tural centres gosto . 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