Alem. &. Corder

Battle root weevils

From page 12

or pruning them out would prove
to be too injurious or unsightiy,
you may have to resort to chemical
warfare. Just remember, you need
not use nuclear force when a well
placed stone hurled from a sling
will do the job nicely.

In other words, use 2 mildly tox-
ic solution consisting of 0.5 nil
Methoxychlor 25 per cent E.E.,
15mL Safer’s Insecticidal Soap,
and 1 litre of water instead of
highly toxic poisons such as
Isotox, Cygon-2E, diazinon,
malathion, etc. Even these, less
dangerous alternatives should be
used only when necessary and with
reasonable care.

My rhododendrons and some of
niy other plants are getting notches
and holes in their leaves as though
something is esting them, even
though I can’t seem to see any in-
sects. What is causing the damage
and what can J do to stop it?

These little garden gangsters are
known as root weevils; AKA, vine
weevils. They are wingless, beetle-
like insects generally %-inch in
length, snout-nosed, and dazk zrey

to black in color in the adult stage.

They are seldom seen in the
garden because they form their
raiding parties at night and then
hide out during the day in the soil.
They can occasionally be spotted
in the house or, if your really wish
to terrify yourself with a view into
an over-populated underworld, try
this.

Place’ a ‘piece of paper under an
affected plant at night, during the
months of April to September.
Shake the shrub firmly, two or
three times; you will be amazed by
the numbers of these little crimi-
nals present on your plant; and
these are only the ones that
fell off.

Now, as to the control of the
felons, we must examine the
modus operandi or operating
method. Eggs are laid in the fall,
hatch in the late winter and
become larvae or grubs which feed
on roots during the spring and can
cause serious damage or even kill
young plants.

The adults arrive in the late spr-

See Modify
Page 14

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