Viellow
the word
in Baja

Indi end. iis neta bad
trade off. a disturbed packing
job in the car in exchange tor
directions ta finally hi the
road south.

In spite of countless can
tions revarding the state at
Mesice’s highways. the route
is mere than passable.

In faery che initial sirens
features more toll booths dan
potholes and is well worth the
brief stops ta pay up.

The scenery ts dotred with
posh resorts which crowd the
coastline,

In time, the road and the
devetopments enter a down:
scale stretch which slowly
shitts to norhing at all as
unsettled wilderness featuring
a barren lidscape takes over,

Roughty halfway down 4
time zone divides the nerth-
ern half of the Baja trom its
southern counterpart.

With the loss of an hour
comes the addition of gen-
uinely Mexican, not
American: Mexican society.

Tall looming cacti crowd
the plains on either side of the
highway and the thought of a
mechanical breakdown sends
shivers down the back of anv
traveller.

A glance ata map indicates
a towa in the vicinity, bur it’s
hard to imagine in the hostile
environment sustaining any
form of human. life. Think

resort.

[Adventure a/or Luxury

north shere

news

A horseback ride on a Baja Californian beach is one
of many ways to explore the unique wilderness of the
1000-kilometre long peninsula bordered by the
Pacific Ocean and the Gulf of California.

again. A turn to the lett tol:
lowed by aright and a fett
again opens ta a tush green
oasis spread out ina small val-
ley below.

This is Maulege. The
absence of an. airstip: hmits
the number of Americans and
ensures the town rerais its
original charm without seck-
ing to get bent out of shape to
please the incoming dollar:
spending hoards.

The next several miles are
dotted with mini beach strips
sporting large thatch umbrel-

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las which double as) camp
spots. Lite here quickly nls to
the rhythms of nature with
one’s time clack quickly
adapting to the sun. Sheep
comes shortly after sundown
and is gone shortly atter sun-
tise.

Some will move on, others
will remain, Those moving on
have vet to experience La Paz,
acity with a dittle of every-
thing except a tot of tourists
who mostly overshoot it to hit
Cabo San Lucas, near the
southern dp of the Baja.

For those relaxing near
Mulege, the hustle and bustle
of a tourist’s agenda in Cabo
is. a workd away and so it
should be.

Living on a) beach on
Mexico’s Baja California
offers a handtil of challenges
to balance out the nearly idyt-
fic-sounding setting.

A chronic shortage of run-
ning water leads many estab-
lishments along the peninsula
to go to extreme measures Te
conserve the limited amount
at their disposal.

One such establishment,

about 20 minutes south of

Mulege, sports the following
suggestion tor its patrons:
“If it’s vellow fet it mellow,
[firs brown flush it down.”
Beats outhouses, no matter
how mellow.

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