LIFESTYLES . HOME & G ARDEN LIFESTYLES WARM WEATHER RENOVATIONS Consider insulating basement from the outside INSULATING YOUR basement wall is one of the most effective ways to reduce your energy bills for years to come. The real question is not whether it should be done (the answer is a resounding ‘‘yes’’), but whether the insulation should be installed on the outside or inside of the wall, . The most common approach is to insulate from the inside in con- junction with basement finishing work. However, if the wall has a history of moisture problems (look for mold stains, a white or yellow powder on the wall in question, and leaks) cr drainage around the outside of the basement wall is poor, you should seriously con- sider insulating from the outside. This approach offers several important advantages. For exam- ple, it does not use up valuable in- side space and makes the founda- _ tion wall part of the home’s heated area. It also enables you to repair any cracks in the foundation walls, damp-proof your walls and im- prove drainage around the house. Since insulating from the outside can involve a lot of digging, you might want to hire a back-hoe to do the bulk of the work. Contact utilities and’ other companies (tele- phone and cablevision) that might have underground cable near your home; most offer free locating services that tell you where not to dig.. The excavation should be down to the footings (although a partial depth exterior insulation will reduce heat loss) but never below the footings. The trench should also be wide enough to enable you to work comfortably — but not oversized, which can cause a lot of unnecessary work refilling the hole. Depending on soil conditions, you may have to brace the trench walls to prevent them from falling in. ‘Once the digging is completed, clean the surface of the foundation with a wire brush and scraper. Repair major holes, cracks or other damage, and smooth uneven surfaces with parging. Then damp-proof the wall from gtade level down over the top of the footings, preferably applying two coats. You should also check all penetrations through the foun- dation wall: these will have to be sealed, removed or extended to ac- commodate the thickness of the insulation. A rigid board insulation should then be installed against the foun- dation. Three basic types are suit- able for exterior use below grade (ground level). Semi-rigid glass- fibre and rigid polystyrene boards are most commonly used, although polyurethane/polyisocyanurate materials are also appropriate. Consult your building supply dealer for information on the dif- ferent types and check the manu- facturer’s specifications before in- stalling the insulation. Since you’ Te going to all this ef- fort, it’s wise to install at least 50 mm (2 in.) of rigid board material, which would provide an insulation value of RSI 1.41 (R 8) to RSI 2.54 @ 14.4) depending on the choice of insulation material. Begin in- stalling your insulation at one cor- aer (remember to overlap at cor- ners) and keep the sheets as tight to the walls as possible. You might even consider using two layers of insulation with overlapping joints. If possible, the insulation should be extended up past the header area by at least 150 mm (6 in.). Otherwise, this area will have to be air-sealed and insulated from the inside. The insulation is held in place at the top by the flashing and corro- sion-resistant fasteners and washers. Below-grade, the insula- tion is held in place by the earth you will throw back into the trench. 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