THE White Pass and Yuken single-gauge raiiway is celebrating its one hundredth birthday this year with a Golden Spike Centennial Cetebration at Careross, Yukon Territory or; July 29. ‘Soar "From page 2h ‘Indians moved north .from old Metlakahtla, 200 miles to the: = south: «i Columbia. Strongly opposed to-alcohol,-Duncan had bro- ken "with. ithe Church of England over ordination and. the . serving of Communion wine.) “In New Metlakatla, I visit- ed the’ artan house where Duncan lived undil his death - in 1918, ‘and. the. double- ’ spired William Duncan Memorial. Church, homé’ to ‘the ® ‘Assembly “of ” Ged>:. However, Duncan’s ideals ‘prevail in this ‘Indian reserve of 2,000. . Mctlakatla remains. dry,” and «nearly . everyone belongs to one of a : :: dozen churches. : Finally, -in Ketchikan; I sas among several dozen pas-* ho chose to fly into: sengers wi “the... 2.3-million-acre. Mist Fjords: National -Monumen' in “large ‘twin-Otter. aircraft. © Layers :of cloud that sat'on the coastal peaks looked like esh whipped cream: - he.” plane “manouevred Omnimar-like British. - “topped . pontoons. between?” 4,000-foot rock faces, lifted . ing over fic over glaciers and snowfields, and swooped into frozen, grecn- tinged alpinc lakes. After setting down on the waters of Rudyerd Bay, some of us climbed carefully out onto one of the plane’s flat- As I peered into dark-blue water . that goes down hundreds of feet, the co-pilot noted that the lake bottom is filled with cameras. . Ketchikan’s century-old Creek Street sits on pilings embedded in the rushing waterway. Among the weath- -er-beaten buildings is Dolly’s House, ‘a private museum “that was once. one of more than 30 bawdy houses in a city-sanctioned red light dis- trict. ‘Dolly Arthur ran her one- i 988-2239 I £110 Fol Ave, North Vancowery ris and g woman operation from 1914, through the ’30s, when boor- legged liquor was lifted from small boats at high tide through trap doors in the floor, until the state closed the houses in 1954. . Arthur’s period furniture, clothes and persona! effects, including a bathroom cup- board filled with salves, med- icines and assorted knick- knacks, remains much as it was when. she. diced in Ketchikan in 1975. On our return voyage, off the northern . end of Vancouver Island, hundreds of playful Pacific white-sided ° Photo Alison Appolbe aciers dolphins swam alongside the ship for more than an hour, diving and leaping, some- times in clusters of five or six. At one point, the passengers lining the rails applauded. It was a hugely impressive performance that took -place in B.C.’s own Inside Passage — that parr of che voyage: that the cruise line had large- | ly overlooked. 000 For more about the Universe Explorer and World Explorer Cruises cal! 1-800- - 720- 0025. Free Accommodation at Whistler??? Book 4 nights and pay for 3! Valid July 5-November 22/00 Call 1-888-621-1177 to i sy, a Whistler Premier Y Resort Accommodations - Oct 26, 2000 “14 day. ‘S Malaga to Southampton visiting: Casablanca, Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Arrecife, Funchal, Cadiz, Lisbon from $4589 Cdn p/p Price includes airfare from Vancouver. Rare is per persan, in Canadian dollars, based on double occupancy. Port and departure charges are additional. Rates are subject to change . without notice. Space is subject to availability at time of booking. Valid on new, individual bookings only, ofa SIGNATURE VACATIONS / _ Encore Cruises Ont Reg. #01748075 ROSEWAY TRAVEL 604+92604344 800 * 926° 4340 info@rosewayitravel.com www.rosewoaytravel.com CALL NOW 926-4344 Desolation Sound Aug 28-31 Long Beach Getaway Sept 5-7 Rockies, Waterton & Alberta Badiands “Sept. 26- Oct. 2 Polar Bears of Churchill Oct. 19- cs