. _ \ THE FRUGAL GOURMET THE WONDERFUL egee- plant, which the Greeks and Romans now love dearly, did not reach Itai¥ until the 14th century. It arrived with a rather bad reputation and was dubbed mela insana, which means ‘‘bad ap- ple.” (Any strange or new vegetable seems to have been called an apple in those days.) . The superstitious people of the Middle Ages claimed the vegetable was poison and would cause severe fevers! It took a while to catch on. The Chinese, however, made the plant very popular during the Sung dynasty (10th to 13th cen- turies}. ' : At that time it was considered very proper to nab the first egg- plants of the season. The popularity of the vegetable has not decreased in China since those days. Today, as more and more peo- ple learn to cook eggplant proper- ly, it is gaining popularity in Canada. EGGPLANT WITH SOYBEAN CONDIMENT AND HOIJSIN SAUCE (serves 3-4 as part of a Chinese meal) ¥2 pound lean pork, cut julienne 1 teaspoon cornstarch 1 teaspoon light soy sauce 1 teaspoon dry sherry or Chinese rice wine t pound eggplant, cut into 42-inch cubes 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons peanut oil chowing 2 cloves garlic, chopped fine or crushed 1 slice fresh ginger the size of a 25¢ piece, cut into slivers 4 green onions, slivered 1 teaspoon sesame ail Y% teaspoon hot-pepper sauce (such as Tabasco), or more to taste 1 teaspoon soybean (‘mein see’’) (find markets) 1 tablespoon hoisin sauce (find in Oriental markets) Pinch of sugar i tablespoon chopped Chinese parsley for garnish Mix the pork with the corn- starch, soy and wine and set aside. Mix the cut-up eggplant with the salt and set in a colander to . drain for 15 minutes. Rinse and pat dry. ' Heat a wok and add 1 tabie- spoon of the peanut oil. Chow (stir-fry) the, pork until just tender and remove from the wok, Set aside. for condiment in Oriental st i hei Rte el aay OS THE SUPERSTITIOUS Europeans of the Middle Ages claimed the eggplant was poisonous and would cause severe fevers! The Chinese, however, made the plant very popular during the Sung dynasty (10th to 13th centuries). Heat the wok again and add the remaining oi! and the garlic and ginger. Chow for a moment and add -the green onions and drained egg- plant. Chow over high heat until the eggplant is tender but not soggy. Add the remaining ingredients, except the parsley, return the pork to the wok and chow until all is hot and done to your liking. Place in a serving bowl and add the garnish. EGGPLANT AND PORK MANDAR-INN (serves 3-4 as part of a Chinese meal) This dish comes from the Man- dar-Inn restaurant in Chicago’s Chinatown. The recipe is very detailed and you may think it is complicated. It is not. The dish will be even simpler if you have everything ready, in- cluding the mixed sauce, before you turn on the wok. MARINADE VY. tablespoon cornstarch t egg white Y. teaspoon peanut oi! Pinch of salt Y2 pound pork, cut jalienne 4 cups peanut oil for deep-frying 1 pound eggplant, cut into ¥2- inch-square sticks, 22 inches long (i prefer the long thin Oriental eggplant for this dish) , 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger 3 cloves garlic, chopped fine or crushed T tablespoon minced celery 1 tablespoon gartic and red chili paste MIXED SAUCE 1 tablespoon dark soy sauce 1 tablespoon light soy sauce 1 tablespoon oyster sauce 1 tablespoon dry sherry 1 teaspoon white pepper powder % tablespoon sugar ¥%; cup chicken soup stock, fresh NEWS photo Paul McGrath or canned 1 tablespoon cornstarch mixed with 1% tablespoons water GARNISH 1 tablespoon Chinese red vinegar or cider vinegar VY tablespoon sesame oil 2 green onions, chopped Mix the marinade and soak the pork in it for 10 minutes. Heat the oil in a wok to 375°F and decp:fry the marinated pork for 1 minute. Remove from the wok and drain. . Deep-fry the eggplant pieces for 2 minutes or until soft. Remove, drain and set aside. in another wok heat 2 table- spoons peanut oil and stir-fry the ginger, garlic, celery and chili paste with garlic for about | minute. Return the eggplant to the pan and add the cooked pork. Chow for about | minute. Add mixed sauce and soup Thicken sauce with cornstarel and water mixture. Cook until the sauce clears and becomes a glaze, about 1 minute, Sprinkle eggplant with the vinegar, sesame oil and chopped green onions, EGGPLANT SHOES (makes 6 servings) This wonderftlly rich dish reaily looks like shoes — shoes filled with a favor your whole family will love, You will find this dish in the tavernas all over Greece, 3 medium eggplants, ench about 1 pound 2 tablespoons salt 2 yellow onions, pecled and sliced 5 tablespoons olive oil 3 cloves garlic, crushed Freshly ground black pepper to taste 2 cups tomato sauce Cut the eggplants in half the long way. Salt them and allow them to drain in a colander for ! hour. Rinse and pat dry. Dig out the eggplant meat to form boats with a “%-inch layer of eggplant, reserving the removed eggplant. Chop the reserved eggplant and set aside to drain. Saute the onions in 3. table- spoons of the olive oil until browned or even caramelized. Remove from the pan and set aside. {n the remaining oil saute the garlic, chopped eggplant and pep- per to laste. Place this mixture in the boats. Top with 2 tablespoons of the tomato sauce, then top with the onions, Place the remaining tomato sauce in a. baking dish large enough to take the ‘‘shoes.’’ You may need to use two pans. Set the shoes on top of the sauce and bake at 350°F for 1 hour or until the eggplant is very tender. EGGPLANT SLICES BAKED (serves 6 as a salad or vegetable course) This dish can be served cold or warm, so it is versatile as well as simple. 2 medium eggplants, each about 1 pound . 1 tablespoon salt ¥Y% cup olive oil Suice of i lemoa Yo teaspoon dried oregano, crush- ed by hand Freshly ground black pepper to taste Salt if needed With a fork, score the eggplant lengthwise. Cut into slices “4 inch thick and sprinkle with the salt. Drain in a colander for 1 hour, then rinse with waier and pat dry with paper towels. Pan-brown’ the slices using “ cup of the olive oil. When lightly browned, place on a baking sheet and bake at 375°F until very tender, Remove. and allow to cool a bit. Mix the remaining “% cup olive oil with the lemon juice, oregano and pepper. Dress the slices with this sauce and test for needed salt. BROILED EGGPLANT WEDGES In Rome the antipasti tables often offer this dish. I! makes a wonderful first course or salad and can be made ahead, so it is helpful at dinner parties. See Wedges page 47