FUNCHAL — Many piaces such as Sydney and Horg Kong are best seen for. the first time from the sea (but ‘not Vancouver, which is a . dab of paint in a . panorama), and the island _ of Madeira is one of them. avid Wishart TRAVEL TIPS It was ‘first ‘sighted by Por- ‘tuguese sailors in 1419, and a year “later Henry the Navigator was back to colonize it, a politically “correct move because the island “was uninhabited. Madeira has had a charmed life ~since, avoiding wars and plagues, . although the vineyards struggled for a while with phylloxera in the late 19th century, and history re- cords.that Napoleon was in a bad mood when he landed. This was not surprising, perhaps, because he was on his ’- way to exile in St. Helena. He refused the gift of a cask of Madeira wine as he feared it might be poisoned. Almost 140 years later, in 1950, ‘Sir Winston Churchill drank from the same cask, pronounced it dan- dy, and had another glass. Churchill used to hang his hat at Reid’s Hotel, one of those wonderful piles oozing with char- acter, potted plants and old char- acters well pickled on the local plonk. But don’t confuse it with the Raffles of old; it has been weil kept up, I drove out to Camara de Lobos, which means chamber of sea lions, although the animals were wiped out by the fishermen because they weve too adept at getting to the fish. Churchill would sit on a patio and paint the pretty harbor dressed with white cottages topped by red-tile roofs, The fishermen who live here are famous for their powers of pro- creation, and one family has 19 children. + Lore has it that husbands retur- ning from the sea often say, ““When did we get this one?’’ Narrow roads edged with jacaranda wind around ravines skilfully terraced for vines and vegetadles. The island, 560 miles southwest of Lisbon, is in fact the tip of a 6,000-foct inactive volcano. It has some of the steepest cliffs in the world, such as Cabo Girao, but even here islanders have built terraces that rival Bali for their beauty. As the terrain is too rugged for animals, all work is done by humans, who carry the produce in wicker baskets on their backs. Wicker is still a big industry here, as are embroidery and cot- ton goods, all of it a cut above the usual tourist fodder. Roadside vendors sell delicious thick, round bread introduced by Moorish slaves, and everyone | came across was hospitable and spoke good English. IN NEW Zealand’s rural areas, away from bustling cosmopolitan cities and resorts, kiwifruit or- chards' dot the landscape. ‘New Zealand orchard and farm owners open their. homes to visitcrs who want to experience a different kind of holiday. Farmhouse and country home “stays have become a popular, af- fordable way to see the country, in addition to the renowned hos- pitality’ of traditional bed and break fast. Increasingly, Canadian visitors are choosing this type of vacation. For a taste of the real New Zealand, farm stays provide an opportunity to meet ‘‘Kiwis,”’ or New Zealanders, in their homes. If they wish, guests can also help with farm work or feeding farm For All Destinations ... Talk To Us! | COOK ISLANDS ror xmas*2005 Discover Your World Travel 1295 Marine Dr., N.Van. 980-4526 a) | o | Sa = . Photo David Wishart EVERY HILL of Madeira offers a beautifui view. Flowers are a major export, as are bananas, while the local for- . tified wine is intoxicatingly i inex- pensive. There are many places where you can taste Madeira, including Sercial, which is a very dry, chilled aperitif, and Maimsey, an after-dinner drink, Funchal, a handsome port city with a bustling market, is the ideal base for a vacation based on good food, wine and sightseeing walks. Up the hill (everything here is up the hill) is Terreiro da Luta, prized for its views, where you can take a toboggan ride back to town. en homes animals. At the end of the day, visitors join the friendly New Zealanders at their dining tables for hearty, country-style meals. For more information on or- chard or farm stay vacations in New Zealand or for a bed-and- breakfast directory, cali the New Zealand Tourism Board toll-free at 1-800-888-5494, You sit in a padded wicker sofa which rides at an exhilarating pace on cobbled streets, all the time controlled by two attendants. Madeira has two golf courses. There are few sandy beaches but many hotels have salt-water pools. Self-catering is a popular op- tion, particularly with the British, who have been coming here for centuries. Hydrofoils scoot over to Porto Santo, the only other inhabited island on the archipelago, which is quite flat and rejoices ina wonderful beach all the way ~ around. This is the place to work on MALAYSIA © SINGAPORE For the 504 Fully Escorted DELUXE 23 DAYS Overland Coach ‘Jour . - $186 CDN per day Centennial Sravset Service - 4183 - 56 St, Deita, B.C. your tan, go windsurfing, and at the end of the day find a plate of fresh fish and a bottle of maintiand vinho verde. Weather is best in spring and fall. It’s rather humid in the sum- mer, while winter attracts northern Europeans who find the mild weather a welcome escape from freezing temperatures ‘and home-made vodka. a Finally, if you did arrive by air, take a boat trip to get an astonishing perspective of this enchanted island, as it’s often called, and the towering cliffs. Personally,i can’t wait to go back. IRELAN EXPLORER VACATION § 16 days March 27 to Oct. 16/94 from CDN $2495 PP IDL Inclusive of airfare from Vancouver via British Airways + Special! Early booking offer— book # and depart by Jan, 14/94 andsave § $50/person.