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EE TPE CERES WER IPED

ptember 26, 1993 ~ North Shore News

PR ae

ERC

Fall makeup trends being touted as revolutionary

PEOPLE ARE taluing
abeut 2 revolution.

“New naturals,’ “understated

elegance,”’ the ‘‘anarchy of |
_ deconstructionism,’’ loose layers,

the Edwardian dandy, sweater
dressing ... the list of time-warp-
ing, gender-bending trends goes
onand op: “ ;

Through the chaotic mix of col-
ors, textures, silhquettes and
period influences, emerge the .
themes for beauty and fashion
that are being routed as revolu-
tionary by fashion editors both a
home and abroad. _ a

At a tirne when a top model can
comand $19,000 a show, it is no
surprise that designers and make-
up artists often gain their inspira-
tion frorn the mannecytiins ©.
themselves. Three portraits of ©
modei beaut, — the waif, the
gamine, and the coquette — il-

_lustrate'the major trends for fail.

Se Waif

Five-foot seven-inch Kate

a Moss’ meteoric rise to supermodel

stardom has been dogged by con- «

troversy ever since she first floated -

down the runway at Calvin Klein

“dast year. 7

«While designers are lining up to

drape their creations oz her *
teed-thin pre-pubescent non-
figure, Calvin Kiein having snap-
ped her up as his new muse, the
public voices its displeasure over
such unnatural! ans unobtainable
thinness. ;

Still, the fresh-faced makeup
worn by the waif has come to the

_ forefront this falt.

At Calvin Klein, mode's had the
air of fresh-scrubbed sc!:oolgirls:
no eye makeup, no mascara,
Vaseline on eyelids and lips, rosy
pink lipstick rubbed across cheeks
and down the nose. A watered-
down base revealed ‘‘visible im-
perfections’’ — dark circles, lines
and freckles — that left the fesh-
ion hounds’ tongnes wagging.

- The Body Shop’s ‘“‘Colourings”’
line of cosmetics offers new pro-
ducts for falt that can help you

obiain this natural, no-makeup
ook. :
Liptinis provide a transparent
gloss of color, in rich yet muted
shades of heather, peach, copper,
rose and mulberry. An added
bonus: Liptints blend jojoba and
roschip oi} with aloe extract,
wheatgerm oi! and sunscreen to
moisturize and protect lips.

And to popularize what profes-
sional makeup artists have been
doing for ages — using lipstick as
an all-over color application —
The Body Shop has come out with
Complete Colour, an all-in-one
cream eye shadow, lipstick and
blusher that dries to a soft matte
finish. It is available in terra-cotta
and rosewood.

Gemine

The dictionary definition of the
gamine is ‘‘a girl who roams the
streets ... a girl of elfin appeal.”
The °90s take on the gamine wears
designer rags, sports a shag hair-
cut arid is a more polished version
of the waif.

Following in the footsteps of
famous gamines Audrey Hepburn,

Jean Seberg, Leslie Caron and
Yves St. Laurent muse LouLou de
La Falaise are Amber Valletta,
Canadian newcomer Shalom, ac-
tress Jane March and Lucie de La
Falaise.

Lips are filled in with muted
berry tones, eyebrows are plucked
and pencilled, eyes are unlined,
cheeks are delicately rouged and
the face is lightly dusted with
loose powder.

Paris-based Stendhal cosmetics
offer creamy lipsticks in rich col-
ors like Rose Natur and Gipsy, a
deep wine. For a clean and
longer-lasting finish, lips should
be outlined with lip pencil in a
matching shade.

Coquette

The heavily decorated coquette,
French for ‘‘flirt,”” blends ele-
ments of the English dandy and
the French courtesan.

At New York designer Anna
Sui's fall show, models were made
up like Kewpie dolls, with heavily
powdered faces, circles of pink
blush, cupid’s bow mouths and
thin, pencilled eyebrows.

Photo submitted

CHANEL’S COSMETICS colors for fall are rich and flirtatious.

Your house des

Energy efficient

Ideal for re-roofing lightweight
Durable & longlasting

Designer styles & colors

Sound deadening
Wind resistant
Adds value

Cost effective

A finger-in-the-socket frizzed
bouffant at Vivienne Westwood,
Louis XIV curls at Anna Sui, and
an upswept hairdo with braided
tail at Christian Lacroix injected
an element of fantasy and harked
back to the court of Versailles. At
Dolce & Gabana, Prada, Chanel
and Jil Sander, innocent, rouged
faces and glossed lips offset ruf-
fled poet’s blouses, fitted Edwar-
dian jackets and crushed velvet
bell-bottoms.

In keeping with this mood,
Chanel's cosmetics colors for fall
are rich and flirtatious.

Lips are filled in with Lip
Rouge in Matte Plum, a deep
royal burgundy, ard balanced
with smoky eyes lined with Preci-

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=

sion Eye Definer in bronze or
khaki. Cheeks are given a light
dusting of powder blush in Cedar
Rose, a new medium pink with
just a hint of brown.

A word of caution to the
adventurous: heavy-handed
makeup, elaborately coiffed hair
and washed-out waifs are meant
to be directional statements. Take
only elements that suit your face
and your lifestyle and disregard
the rest ... for as we know, to-
day’s ‘‘new neutrals’’ are tomor-
row’s “tired tones.”

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