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David Wishart photo

THE swimming pool at the Four Seasons Resort on Hawaii’s Big island is the perfect place to cool off. Travel
writer David Wishart reports Four Seasons hotels are good for people-watching in the sense that the guests

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Coming this week in

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FRIDAY MARCH 12

n the eve of Spring Break, take

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“

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dress stylishly, read good books and never appear to have bering jobs.

KONA — We came to
the Big Island of
Hawaii a long, but
wonderful way, from
Australia and Fiji by
Canada 3000, then
Aloha Airlines to Kona,
sipping fresh guava
juice as the air

turned for the final
approach.

What we saw was a land-
scape that looked like the
moon: a mass of black lava
spreading down to the sea
from the snow-capped peak
of Mauna Kea. Later we
iearned that Hawaiians had
been skiing and snowboard-
ing on the volcano that day.

Having seen Kilauca, the
world’s most active volcano,
gushing steaming, red molten
lava into the sea on the other
side of the island (from the
safety of a cruise ship) I can
only say rather them than me.
Yet there are many other vol-
canoes on the Big Island, and
it's only a matter of time
before another blows its top.

Not within the next six
days, thought I as we collect-
ed our bags and headed for
the car rental agency. Ahead
of me two guests at the Four
Seasons Resort were given
leis of orchids, gorgeous
blooms that flower here in
greater numbers than any-
where else.

Later in the week it was
our turn to check into the
hotel, whose full name is
Four Seasons Resort,

Hualalai at historic
Ha’upulchu. You wouldn’t
want to be the telephone
operator here.

Our room faced the pool
with a sea view beyond. It
had the kind of bathroom
that made one want to linger,
particularly the outside show-
er open to the stars.
Comfortable seats on the
lanai made for a private place
to watch the passing parade,
such as tennis star Pete
Sampras.

Four Seasons hotels are
good for people-warching in
the sense that the guests
dress stylishly, read good
books and never appear to
have boring jobs. Probably
no other hotel group has the
same cachet with such dis-
criminating travellers, who
waft from London to Nevis
to Bali knowing that the peo-
ple they meet will bc reading
Tom Wolfe and not Danielle
Steel.

The cost of staying here,
$450 U.S. and up a night,
keeps it fairly exclusive,

The Hualalai Golf Club, a
chip shot from check-in,
charges $145 U.S. to hotel
guests. At Mauna Kea down
the road where the green fees
are $175, hotel guests pay
just $90, But whereas Mauna
Kea golf course is open to the
public, you must be a hotel
guest or property owner at
Hualalai to play this superb
Jack Nicklaus course on the

ocean.

With 10 minutes between
groups, there are no holdups
and no five-hour rounds. But
there is time to look at the
properties going up beyond
the fairways. Ina generally
slow real estate market, this is
the hottest on the island.

The resort has a beautiful
spa, great workout room and
after you're been there
you’ve earned a meal at the
water’s edge restaurant.
Along with the Canochouse
at Mauna Lane Bay Hotel,
this is the best scaview restau-
rant on the island, and like
the Canoehouse (and Roy’s
at Waikaloa) the food is out-
standing. .

1 also liked the bar on the
beach with tables in the sand
where you could hoist a mai-
tai and look over the sea to
Maui.

I did this one day trying
to figure out how long the

swim was after reading about
8,271 ft. Mount Hualalai. Of
late it was thought to be
extinct, having last fired up in
1801, so several housing
developments were built on
its slopes. :

In recent years scientists
using infrared technology.
found it was red hot inside
and quite dangerous because
an eruption would sent
gigantic amounts of lava
pouring down its steep sides,
possibly within the next 10
years.

as it happens the volcano
is quite a way from the hotel,
but I'd go anyway before the
hazard on the sixth fairway is -
50 million tons of red-hot
lava. -
Canada 3000 flies nonstop
from Vancouver to Kona, or’
you can stop off at Hawaii on
an Australia/Fiji wip and hop *’
to any island by Aloha
Airlines.

Look for dancer Michelle

MAUNA Lani Bay Hotel (and bungalows) has -
reopened after a full refurbishment and was
getting ready for the Senior Skins golf match

when I was there.

-This is another superb hotel with a delightful sandy
beach and nwe: world-class golf courses. The south course is

a must-play, even at $175 US.

Rooms at Mauna Lani are spacious and decorated in
shades of white and beige not unlike like the Halekulani in
Waikiki. Bathrooms, previously the only weak link in this

prestigious property,

ave been totally redone. -F

It’s worth a visit to see the magnificent lobby. Go ar
sundowner time and watch hula dancer Michelle.

— David Wishart