aditional THE BACKGROUND and origins of the unusual ethnic group called the Basques are hidden in history, so it is dif- ficult to describe them. While they were a nation at one time, they are a nation no more. They do not even have a homeland that is strictly theirs. They come from the Pyrenees. the beautiful mountains of south- western France and northern Spain. The border between these two countries goes right through the middle of the Basque region, so some Basques are French and some are Spanish. Basque food is always plentiful and tasty. Special thanks to the Erreguible family at Louis’ Bas- que Corner in Reno, Nevada, for these recipes. BASQUE OXTAILS (Serves 8) The Basque sheepherders came te Reno, Nevada, generations ago and they roughi their recipes with them. 4 pounds oxtails, rubbed with salt and freshly grouad black pepper 2 tablespoons olive oi} i cup ckopped celery 1 medium yellow onion, pecied and chopped 2 cusvots, siiced 3 cloves garlic, peeled 2 elsitots, preled and chopped 1 tablespcon chopped parsicy 1 tablespoon ail-purpose Cony 2% caps fresh or canned beef 1 teaspoon dried thyme, whole Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Using a iarge black frying pan, brown the seasoned oxtail: in the oil. You will need to do this in about three batches. Remove the meat to a 6- to 8- quart heavy steve-top pot. Leave the oil in the frying pan and saute the celery, onion, car- rots, garlic, shallots and parsley. When the onions are ciear, add the flour and stir in well. Saute a few minutzs longer and add the remaining ingredients along with the oxtails, except the salt and pepper. . Simmer partially covered for 2 hours or until tender. Stir occa- sionally. Add salt and pepper to taste as the dish finishes. CHICKEN AND RICE (Serves 8 as a rice dish) Rice dishes seem to appear at the Basque table in aan endiess varicty. This chicken dish will be a Jeff Smith as. ‘ A THE FRUGAL GOURMET favorite with your household. 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 3-pound chicken, cut into 8 ser- ving pieces 3 cloves garlic, peeled and chop- ped 1 medium yellow onior, peeled and chopped small ¥ medium green bell pepper, cor- ed, seeded and chopped small % cup water 2 cups couverted rice 4 caps fresh oy canned chicken stock i bay leaf Sait and freshly grouud black Pepper to taste Heat a deep stove-top casscrole and add the oil and chicken. Brown the picces well, then remove to a platter. Leave the oil in the pan. Add to the pan the garlic, yellow onion and green pepper. Saute until the onion is clear, then deglaze the pan with % cup water. Return the chicken to the pot and add the remaining ingredients. Bring to a boil, cover the pot and turn down to simmer. Cook for 25 minutes or until the rice is just tender. CODFISH PIL PIL (Serves abovt 4 2s a main dish) I was told by one Basque old- timer that a mcal that did not in- clude a salt cod fish was not a Basque dinner. 1 pound salt cod, skinless and boneless 3 tablespoons olive oi! 4 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed Pinch of red-pepper flakes 1 cup fresh or canned chicken stock (simmered with 1°' piece lernon peel) 1 egg, beaten Cut the salt cod into I*’-wide serving pieces and rinse well. Soak fer 24 hours or more, rinsing with fresh water severa: times. Cook the salt cod in fresh water for about I5 minutes or until it can be easily flaked, but leave the pieces whole. Drain and let cool, discarding the liquid. Heat a large frying pan and add the oii and crushed garlic. Saute over medium heat until the garlic barely begins to brown. Add the red-pepner flakes, the drained cod «and the chicken stock. Bring to a simmer while shaking the pan gently. With a pancake turner, remove the cod to a platter. Turn off the heat, add the beaten egg and return to iow heat. Stir the liquid constantly until the sauce begins to thicken. Remove irom the heat and im- mediately pour over the fish and serve. BASQUE LEG OF LAMB WITH MUSHROOM AND WINE SAUCE (Serves 4-6) This is another wonderful dish from Louis’ Basque Corner. 15-6 pound leg of lamb 6 cloves gariic, peeled Salt and freshly pround black pepper to taste 2 tablespoons olive oil FR RARE LAMB: -lave the lamb at room temperature. Heat the oven to 400°F. Using a paring knife, poke 6 small holes in the fat side of the roast aad insert the garlic cloves. Rub the roast all over with salt and pepper and a little bit of oil. Insert a meat thermometer in the thickest part of the leg, being carefui net to touch the bone. Piace in a pan with a roasting rack and roast at 400°F for 40 tninutes, so the meat can brown. Turn down the oven to 325°F and roast for an additional 40 to 50 miautes or until the thermometer registers 140°F. FOR MEDIUM LAMB: Foliow the above instructions but cook a bit longer so the ther- momeier registers 145-150°F. Remove the meat from the oven and allow it to sit a half hour be- fore slicing. It will continue to cook during this time. In the meantime, prepare the sauce. Wednesday, May 13, 1992 - North Shore News — £98 eee Ec ar Gee) ia Basque dishes NEWS photo Mika Wakefield THE BASQUES come from the Pyrenees, the beautiful mountains of southwestern France and nerthern Spain. SAUCE (Makes 3 cups) 2 cups fresh or canned beef stock 1 cup dry red wine 2 tablespoons ofive oi] 2 cloves garlic, pezied and crushed ¥% pound mushrooms, sliced 1 bay ieaf ‘4 teaspoon dried thyme, whole 4 tablespoens butter 6 tablespoons all-purpose flour Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Ya teaspoon dricd mint (optioual) Piace the beef stock an“ ~ine in a 2-quart saucepan. Bring to a simmer. Hea? a 10° frying pan and add the oi! and garlic. Saute for a moment and add the mushrooms, bay icaf and thyme. Saute until the mushrooms are tender, then remove them from the pan and set aside. Return the pan to the stove and melt the butter. Add the flour and cook a few minutes ta form a roux (a paste of butier and flour just barely browned). Add the roux to the stock and wine and whip it with a wire whisk until smooth. Add the mushrooms and simmer for 10 minutes. Add salt and pepper. If you wish to add the optional mint, do so during the last 10 minutes of cooking. Special qualities of limes liven food flavors SUE WILSON ANNE GARDINER ONLY THOSE familiar with kaffir limes undezstand why Sue occasionally car- ries one in her pocket! With its ungainly knobby skin, a kaffir lime is a perfect example of the deceiving appearance of some foods. Like all limes, a kaffir lime is a inember of the citrus family. But its special qualities are instantly apparent when you cradle it in your hands, and caress its skin. As citrus cils escape fiom the tind, a heavenly perfurac is released. Like a genic freed from a bottle, its aroma is a magic carpet back to beguiling Southeast Asia. Memories swirl, of the tang of a kaffir's grated rind in peanui sauce for the grilled chicken satay of Thailand. Even the dried leaves of the kaffir lime are shredded as a zesty last-minute addition to salads, curries and soups. And of course, many Asian dishes play the sourness of lime juice against the heat of peppers. Closer to home, the perfume is less in the limes we usualiy sce, but the juice is just as useful. There’s the Florida Key-time, also known as a Mexican lime. This is the most sour of the time varieties. Small and round, it has a thin, smooth skin and a yellowish tonc. It only takes one tasic of its biting pulp to realize why so fittle juice is required to entiven the favor of the famous key-lime pie. The time familiar to most of us has a thicker skin and a juicy pulp. And it’s much less sour than the key-lime, it’s also known as the sweet lime, or Persian fime. All times are strongly acidic, though sour ones reportedly have one-third more citric acid than sweet limes. Along with lemons, limes are the most acidic fruits. Expect one lime ia yield two to three table- spoons of tart juice. The acidity of lime juice con- trasts well) with tropical fruit, Sprinkied on guava und papaya, hme livens the flavor of fruit. Traditionally, limes are used in guacamoie to add tang to the but- tery avocado base. But limes also keep avocadoes from discoloring as their acidity slows down the ac- ticn of the enzymes that cause browning. Limes are also an eséential in- gredient in making ceviche with fresh scaliops or snapper; the acidity of the lime-based marinade is sufficiently powerfui fo coagulate the protein of fish as it stands for several hours. Lime mousses, cream-based desserts and uncooked filling for key-lime pie often firm slightly more because of the limes’ acidity. Only a jitte is requized, so desserts thicken without curling. Don't lump the lime together with the lemon. Each nas is own personality. And as we wait for local fruits to appear, the zing cf limes adds vitality to dinner.