THE FRUGAL GOURMET SOMETIMES A discovery becomes sc commonplace in our lives that we forget its implications. Consider how fife changed with the realization that foods could be dried. This oldest method of preserving food was probably discovered during the arid wind- storms 30,006 years ago, Preservation of food for the winter was the most important result of this process, but consider that this discovery also allowed people to travel with a food supp- ly in their bags. Finally, dricd food gave us possibilities for trade because the food would not spoil en route. Life was seriously changed when we learned to dry foods. We continue to dry certain foods today because the process changes and enriches the Mavor. Almost any food product can be dried. Chinese black mushrooms are a goad example. Fresh Chinese mushrooms, now available in many B.C. supermarkets, simply do not have that wonderful cich flavor you find in the dried ones. Many of the following! recipes are variations on ancient dried- food dishes. | know you will en- joy them. DRIED OYSTERS AND PORK IN LETTUCE (serves 4 as part of a Chinese meal) This is wonderful. tun to prepare and ever more fun to eat. You will begin to wonder if the Chinese also invented the burrito! I think they did. 4 ounces dried oysters, rinsed and soaked for 2 hours 6 Chinese dried soaked for 2 hours Yo pound lean ground T tablespoon light soy sauce Ya teaspoon freshly grated ginger 1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine or dry sherry 2 cloves garlic, crushed ] feaspoon cornslareh 2 tablespoons peanut vil for chowing 8 water chestnuts, coarsely 1 tablespoon oyster sauce 42 teaspoon sesame oil 6 green onions, chopped 8 Jettuce-leaf cups fiecherg Iytiuce) Soak the oysters and mushrooms, drain and grind together coursely. Mix with the ground perk. Add the soy sauce, ginger, rice wine, garlic and cornstarch. Mix well and place in a steaming dish. Steam for 20 minutes. When ready to serve dinner add muslirooms, pork, cogrsely chopped the peanut oil to a hot wok. Chow the steamed — mixture, along with the water chestnuts, oyster sauce, sesame oi] and green onions, breaking up the mixture as it cooks for about 3 minutes. Drain any excess fat from the cooked meats and serve in a bow! along with the lettuce cups en the side, Place a bit of meat in each cup and roll up and ear like a burrito. CHINESE SAUSAGE, DRIED DUCK AND ROAST PORK SAND POT (serves 4 as pact of a Chinese mea!) The flavors of these meats, each already very rich because they are dried, combine in this dish to of- fer a distinct. and wonderful blend. It is. very typical of the ‘hot sand pou’ dishes you find in Hong Kong. Sand pots can be purchased in Oriental markeis. Vy pound dried duck. ent into J- inch-square pieces (use a cleaver for this), seaked in’ ample water overnight 3 Chinese sansaves (‘lop chone"), whole Ttablespoon peanut oi} i clove garlic, chopped fine J medium yellos onion, peeled and sliced M’ feaspoon freshly grated ginger ¥2 pound Barbecued Pork Strips (recipe below) 4 yrven onions, slivered 1 tablespoon light soy sauce Pinch of brown sugar V2 teaspoon sesame oi} White pepper, ground, to taste 1 medium head icebery lettuce, torn NEWS photo Paul MeGiain DRIED FOODS of all kinds are found in Asian markets. This oldest method of preserving food: was probably discovered during arid windstorms 30,000 years ago. Simmer the soaked dried duck along with the sausage fer 20 minutes. Cut the sausage into 1- inch pieces Chow the duck and sausage quickly in a wok along with the remaining ingredients except the lettuce. Drein the fat. Place in asand pot over tte let- tuce and place on a beat diffuser over a hot burner. When all is piping hot, serve. BARBECUED PORK STRIPS (serves 4-8 for a dim sum snack or a course ina Chinese dinner) For this recipe choose pork butt that has litle streaks of fat in it and the result will be juicy and Mavorful. 2 pounds boneless pork butt MARINADE 2 tablespoons chicken soup, fresh or canned Shore News - 47 afi gitigy seve 2 tablespoons dark say sauce 1 fablespoon saybean condiment Chmein see") PE tablespoon Chine dry sherry 44) tablespoons froney 34 feuspoon salt i large clove garlic, crushed 2 tablespoons hoisin sauce (found in Oriental markets) A lew drops of red foed coloring Cut the pork into long. strips 1% jnches to 2 inches square, Mix all for the marinade and marinate the meat for 3 hours unrefrigerated, or 6 hours in the refrigerator. Turn the strips every four ur so. Preheat the oven to 350°F, Place a large cake pan half fill- ed with water on the fowest shelf of your oven. This will catch drips from the meat and prevent smok- ing. Place the meat strips directly on an oven rack and put in the top position of the oven. Be sure that all che meat is over the dripping pan. Roast for 45 minutes without disturbing the meat. Then turn the heat up to 450°F and roast for an additional 15 minutes or until the pork strips are crisp and a rich brown color. Slice the meat and serve it hot or cold, or use in other dishes as directed. SALTED COD IN CREAM SAUCE (serves 4-6 as a fish course for an italian meal) The secret to refreshing this dried salt cod is lots of water. It is soaked for days and you can fiad it ready to go in Roman fish markets. They use wonderful old marble tanks that sit out on the street filled with ‘‘baccata’’ and with a stream of fresh water running into the tank all the time, You can find this dried fish in any Italian market. 1 pound dried salt’ cod fillets, soaked and refreshed for 2 days 1 yellow onion, peeled and chop- ped Pearrot, unpeeled, sliced 1 bay leal, whole 6 peppercorns CREAM SAUCE 1% tablespoons butter 1 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons flour va cup dry white wine Peup milk “a cup ezveam 1 ‘guspoon chopped Salt and freshly pepper to taste 1 tablespoon pine nuts, toasted, for garnish Buy pieces of salt cod that are fairly thick and fresh looking. Cut them into 12-inch pieces across the grain of the fish. Rinse well and place in a large bowl. Cover with water and allow to soak, changing the water 2 or 3 times each day, for 48 hours. You do not have to refrigerate. Drain the cod and place in a 4-quart soup pot. Add fresh water to cover and the onion, carrot, bay feaf and peppercorns. Bring to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes or until the fish is tender. While the fish is cooking, prepare the sauce. Heat the oil and butter in a small frying pan and add the flour. Cook just a few minutes to prepare a roux. Do not discolor, e orice wine or capers, rinsed and ground = biaek See Water page 51