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14 ~ Wednesday, July 30, 1997 ~ North Shora Naws

‘A et earner reemetoomer nares | nasyEEVO PNAS etna

Fight bli

On July 12 I looked at

miy tomato plants and

thought it was time to

spray them with fixed

copper and build a tem-

porary plastic roof ever
em,

When I went out to do the
spraying three days later, the
plants were starting to wilt
and were covered with black
patches on both the leaves and
the stems, It was discouraging
to see 30 large bushy plants
collapse so quickly after nur-
turing thei for four months,
As disappoirited as 1 was, 1
was glad that I did not have
12 hectares of tomatoes that 1
had to depend on for my
livelihood.

Ifyou have not sprayed
and/or covered your toma-
toes let this be a reminder. '
With the continued damp
weather the tomato blight has
hit much earlier this year.

“Actually there'are two forms
of tomato blight, “early” and
“late” and both are devastat-
ing to all varieties of tomatoes, .
- Both forms of blight will
also attack potatoes, killing
the tops and late blight will

" ‘cause the tubers to rot.

~.” Losing my tomatoes so

~ -qutickly made me appreciate

what it must have’ been like
“during the great Irish potato’ ~

. famine, when several million

‘people died or were forced to

The majority of Irish farm-

* ersonly had an acre or two of -

land on.which to grow a sub- ..:
ence crop and the choice

of

a

Europe

FERN SHONOE ED OeoCaneesanernaeeenoetaeensonser

sow it
grows

was usually potatoes, When
the blight hit, the peasants
fled the country, entered work
houses or starved to death on
the land. Those who fled and
survived the “coffin ship”
crossing to Canada faced great
hardships.

This year is the 150th
anniversary of the first wave of
Irish potato famine immi-
grants that came to Canada,

Both forms of blight are
actually fungal diseases, Early
blight is caused by Alternania
solani and late blight is caused
be: Phytophthora infestans,
two fungi thai originated in
Mexico and have spreail all
over the world, The disease
travels by airborne spores
from infected plants or fruit.

Destroying infected plant
material and rotating crops
will help reduce the risk but
spores can still blow in from
other areas,

“Here are a few.tips to help

‘you avoid tomato blight in

our damp coastal area:

@ Plant your tomatoes
against a south wall where
there is a wide eave or where
it is easy to erect a temporary
roof over the plants...

@ Alternately, choose a
sunny site in the garden where

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there is good air circulation
even though itimay not be the
Warmest spot, Excess water
and fertilizer will create dense,
lush foliage which is slow to
dry in wet weather, Wet leaves
and stalks are infected more
readily,

8 Use drip irrigation
rather than overhead watering
if possible,

@ Water in the morning
when the sun has time to dry

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the plants quickly,

& Rotate your planting
areas if possible to avoid any
spores that remain in the soil,

@ Keep your tomatoes and

_ potatoes as far apart ftom each

other as possible,

@ Check your plants daily
and remove any suspicious
looking leaves or shoots,

@ Disinfect your clippers

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between cuts to prevent cont
amination,

@ Disintect your tomato
stakes and do not tse any
string or support material
from the previous year,

Mf if you are not an organ-
ic grower it is wise to spray
carly with a fungicide as a pre-
ventive measure. Once the
plants are infected it is very

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difficult to save the crop,

Copper compounds have
long been used as an effective
fungicide and are the most
“natural” products available,’
Several chemical fungicides‘.
such as chlorothalonil, maneb
mancozeb and zineb are also’
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SALE

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34:

of Earles & Kingsway _

yaadny