= TRAVEL ts island life Si From pase distinetive traditions. On a sunny afternoon, | chased the sounds of bells com- ing from La Seigneuric, to discover one of the finest formal gardens in the Channel Islands. Reaumont graciously opens La Seigneurie Gardens to visitors where there is even a hedge maze tor children. The bell Eheard used to toll to warn of invaders. That day the Seigneur merely was calling, his lidy to tea. The narrow lanes of Sark are filled with people of every age pedaling about their evervday activities — notably on three-speed Raleighs, the kind that let riders sit straight up. There are more than 1,500 bikes (including rentals) among the 550 residents and they are evervwhere. Grocery shop- ping, banking, meeting for lunch, going to work — all involve cycling. Scenes from old movies come to mind as the postman, his toad in an extra-wide basket, expertly plies his route. From infants propped in handlebar baskets to octogenarians going for the daily paper, the Sarkese glide through life at a “Sunday morning” pace, their bicveles bells creating a sym- phony of greetings. Along The Avenue, Sark’s high street, [ found the famous heavy-knit viled sweaters known as “guernseys,” nestled among souvenir T-shirts and postcards, and an artisan's work- shop where “Sark glass” can be purchased. A specialty of the area, Jersey milk ice cream is not to be missed. There are wo bike-for-hire shops that offer mountain bikes and the tradi- tional three-speed type. Both are suitable for the leve!-grade, hard-packed surfaces of the island. Forget gourmet coffee shops and night spots. All the action is at the three pubs where duty-free beer keeps thirsty visitors and focals refreshed. Also missing are bike racks; it's common to see dozens of bikes resting against hedges or other convenient structures along The Avenue. Theft is not an issue, although there is the odd case of jov-riding after the pubs clase on a Friday night. French and English cultures mingle on Sark, La Sablonnerie, a 16th century farmhouse discreetly converted to a world-class country inn combines the best of both, | reached it by cycling across the causeway to Lite Sark, at the southern tip of the island. My reward was a crearn tea served in the quintessential English country garden. Nearby I found natural seawater pools just right for a quick dip, and the breathtaking La Grande Greve, one of the many bays close Dy. Dining on Sark can match London’s best. After a full day of touring the coast line of heavily scented gorse and hones: suckle, and marveling at vast green valleys with wind-twisted uees, I supped on chilled venison and grilled Sark lobster at the Hotel Petit Champs. The wine list was a trip through France’s best growing regions and the cheese board groaned with English specialties. Evenings are as magical as the long, languid days. Moonlight replaces street lights and torches dance to the rhythm of the walkers and cyclists moving through the night. Stars appear so large they seem close enough to touch. As I admired this sight, the sky was invaded by showers of coinets. It just doesn’t get any betrer. Sark is truly a cycling heaven. Unlike other parts of the world where we choose to tide our bikes, here it’s a way of life. As one very pregnant woman said as she pedaled along The Avenue, “It’s easier than walking.” Getting there — From the UK: by air from several UK air- ports or Candor catamaran from Weymouth to Guernsey, then ferry to Sark. From the Continent: By air to Guernsey or Jersey and then ferry to Sark, or by ferry from St. Malo, France. Staying there — La Sablonnerie (juxury inn) Tel: 01481-832061; Fax: 01481-832408 Les Quatre Vents (small family run guest house) Tel: 01481-832247; Fax: 01481 832332 Sark Tourism Office, Harbour Hill, Sark, Channel Islands, GY9 OSF Tel: 44-1481 832345; Fax: 44-1481 832483 ‘Pacific Sands Beach Resort Voted °lid Best Accommodation in BC” Ocean view suites with fireplaces Tofino’s Original Whale Watchers 65° Cruisers (Zodiacs available) lower pace sui Curator leads trip to ancient Haida village SOME of the finest examples of original totems in existence and the remains of ancient Haida cedar long houses still stand in the Haida village of Nunsting (SGaang Gwaii), on the exposed west coast of the Queen Charlotte Islands. Dr. Robin Wright, curator of Native American Art at the Burke Museum will lead a tour to these sites May 8-17. For more information con- tact Bluewater Adventures at 980-3800) or svisit their Website at SHOCKING OFFER! 12 nights including airfare, hotel, breakfast | daily and 5 tours of Bali photo Katherine Gibson HORSE-drawn carriages (barouche) are one of the main modes of transportation on the British Channel island of Sark. Belize trips scheduled ISLAND Expeditions, an adventure travel company with 14 vears experience exploring the remote regions of Belize, is offering savings of up to $250 per trip on selected week— long sea kayak and rainforest adventures departing in April. In Belize you can travel from tropical rainforests to the coral islands of the barrier reef in a matter of hours. The trips are active adventure holidays. Participants need to be in good physical condition and possess a keen spirit of adven- ture. No previous experience is required to participate. 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