36 - North Shore News — Sunday, April 9, 2000 Night and day in Granada From page % interpretation to the dance. His was an aggressive role. The drumming of his feet and the sheer arrogance of his movements incited the audi- ence to cheers. There are two ways to see the old Muslim Quarter; by day and by night. At night lanterns cast golden pools of light in otherwise dark alleys and the shadows of trailing geranium, like spiny fingers, imprint a ghostly silhouette on white-washed walls. At midnight we joined a walking tour at Los Tarantos and strolled .with our guide through an Albaicin touched with magic. An hour later our party . emerged from a dark passage into a plaza filled with pave- ment diners, the music of clas- sical guitars and the Alhambra across: the ‘valley bathed in “moonlight. ... By day a whole new world is revealed. For the less agile, . mini-buses leave the centre of town for the Albaicin every twenty minutes or so. Take an ‘afternoon walk in the old. ‘Muslim’ Quarter and you can . . glimpse. through ornamental gates, gardens in . miniature | where children play beneath pomegranate trees. © There ‘are churches to explore; museums, Palaces, - convents, and the 11th centu- ry Arab baths. Then when you are too hot to go any further, sit under an umbrella and sip a glass of wine at a pavement cafe. We rested at a bar in the _ Plaza de San Miguel Bajo and whiie sampling a traditional ‘dish, Haba con Jamon (Ham with Lima beans), we enjoyed a concert. by a tipsy singer whose fingers, in spite of ine- briation,. plucked - intricate melodies on his guitar. - Nearing the city centre as we made our way down hun- dreds of shallow steps and along cobbled streets we came upon a hippie enclave. There were dozens of stalls lining the alley. Among them a middle-aged “pirate” with head-scarf, golden