s diiarshiy coast, often shrouded i in fos, lies s Conede s biggest and most impressive project of ‘histori "After the » French idst their colony “in: Newfoundland in storation, which-is nothing less than Dring al alive a French fortified city of “pardment of the 4 000 New ” Enigland ° volunteers when ‘home ‘for ‘the ‘settlers i in Isle - Royale,’ as Capé- Breton was’ then ‘known: -Louisbourg, © _ already: _known:.to- French . fishermén. ‘who: their cod on ‘its: ‘beaches before returning to Europe, d.and fortified, as . to: _the British » seg _ was,so fapid that: there. ides" the ‘extensive two-.. . way general’ trade; with Europe;. the.. “West, Indies, Quebec, : ‘and Nev Eagland vould - dry, shelling’ eminences " proceeded to. pound the in| 1745 and. ‘town. It took only ~ ap- proximately - six weeks of to bring about: ‘surrender, after limited ‘damage and Casualties among the civil population. _ Another weakness, due to “before ‘the frosts, so that ‘the stones. began ‘to crumble - from the shock waves of the. _ fort's own guns, let alone the — “enemy "s. The victory was a hollow : ne for the New Englanders, “$,000 of whom. perished from famine and disease that -winter; and three years later, - (though the last was: ‘iHlegal,; — Louisbourg was restored to but connived at). More than 100 trading ships used. the small harbour ‘each year. , The: ‘original ‘impetus for today’s reconstruction was the economic depression caused by the “closure of - Cape Breton’s coal mines. The Federal Government _ has éarmarked $25 million for the project, which gives . permanent employment to about 175 people, swelling to 350 in the summer, and many unemployed. coal miners have been retrained as craftsmen. Students and others are engaged as costumed “animators” to present the visitor with a.realistic pic- ture of an 18th century town. The target date for full restoration of one quarter of the fortress and town is 1982. OVER THE DRAWBRIDGE It is just half an hour's run from Sydney to the modern village of Louisbourg -- still a fishing harbour, with a great reputation for lobsters, served in its restaurants along the shore. Here you must park your car, for the only modern transport into old Louisbourg is the visitor bus which deposits you at the’ drawbridge of Porte Dauphine. After being challenged by an officer and sentry in the uniforms of the Compagnie Franche de Ia Marine, you’ two-storey building, aro free to wander the grid pattern streets, the quays where ships were unloaded into the “King’s Storehouse”, and the massive fortress with its ramparts and glacis. The King’s Bastion, with its casemates and = em- brasures overlooked by higher ground,’ was of little use in resisting the bom- yi ieee caer ee ONO . ee enmwewe 4p 0 we 4 SOPs eee, we rpe e OREO as oe sate eae a, cde [a vere teas France by the Treaty of Aix la” Chapelic. However, in 1756 ' France and. Britain were at war again, and in 1758 LouisbGurg faced a more professighal attack by 16,000 troops under Sir Jeffrey Amherst. This time it was for good -- the British ordered ‘the complete demolition of the fort, and thus it remained for 200 years. Thanks to the vast store of French records, plans and correspondence now in the archives of Parks Canada, the Government Depart- ment responsible, it has been possible to reconstruct many buildings on _ original foundations and in the finest detail. And what is more, to learn a good deal about individual inhabitants. Thus, the soldiers on guard duty or tending the cannons, have been given the names of actual soldiers stationed there in 1744, and briefed as to their characters. And if you find = the soldiers somewhat ragged, untidy, and even surly, don't be surprised, for this is just how they were. Armies of those days combed the prisons for recruits; for men condemned to a life of hardship and boredom, in an appalling climate, with little to occupy their leisure but drinking, morale was abysmally low. The main barracks, a long con- tains the men's stark dor- mitories where they slept two to a wooden bunk, on straw changed Once a year. In the centro are offices and prison, a chapel and priest's house, and officers’ quarters -- though most = married officers lived in the town. At the far end of the block is the luxurious house of the ORO CLO iain : dining - “toom,. kitchen” furnished, down. cooking: utensils, mainly. ‘with: ..originals . researched: from: the: ‘antique. shops of France. _ -The town houses,. shops, bakery, ; armoury, are all rebuilt, in in, the’ full knowledge of who: occupied them in 1744:‘Go through: the” house .of the. ‘Engineer, and you may find “laundry, forge, each . “case. ‘Chief ~s "bedroom, : “and. Council. on ‘Chamber, all reconstructed . - in: authentic detail,. and . rum. “the. maids “cooking * and eating a-mieal in his lavish kitchen; others, with - children: weeding the herb garden. - Take’ "your lunch in ‘the Auberge. de 'Epee Royale, and it: ‘will be an‘18th century one “of onion soup, boiled . chicken,’ ‘rice’ and-- carrots, bread: ‘pudding, bread. and -. cheese, with wine, , brandy or ‘(On” Fridays - and: Saturdays, only fish). But the fresh baked bread is a treat. Spénd a whole day in TLowlsbourgs: and you . will | J find’ yourseit slipping’ t back into the feeling of the times - - the isolation and loneliness . of the site, offset by the: ‘Spirit of advéjiiture- ‘and: ‘initiative ‘which produced. : good 7 Many prosperous merchants. ‘the ‘soldiers were | _ unhappy and mutinous. Only :The Fortress is-open from June 1st to September 30th, and visiting hours are: June 1 - June 30 10:00 am - 6:00 pm July 1 - - Labour. Day ‘9:00 am - 8:00 pm ' _=Sept. 30 10:00 am.- 6:00 pm reece and Portugal | await YOu 4, Looking for the sun holiday of your life? it awaits you ‘ now. Eaton's Tours offers. you sun destinations that'll brown you beautifully. But that's not all. . |n Greece ex “and: Olympia. lore the ruins of Delphi, the Acropolis rulse the Agean aboard one of the many cruise ships. Airfares from 639.00. Tours in Greece from 235.00. In Portugal visit Lisbon, capital city and every inch European. Cobble-stoned streets. Pastel-washed houses. Bountiful seafood. See the Algarve.. . 8e@e Portugal. Airfares from 481.00. Tours in Portugal trom 159.00. Visit your nearest Eaton's Travel centre for com- plete Tour information. Or call: Pacific Centre 687-0055 Brentwood 269-5736 _Clans celebrations (June-28 ~ at ‘location ze 7 throughout the | ’ Province; Canadian “The summer. of “1979 is ' destined to be an especially: ‘busy one. at Louisbourg, when thousands of Scots and’. other visitors arrive in Nova__ Scotia to attend the: In-' ternational Gathering of the Aug... 12), For general ‘informatic on . on: Canada as. a. . travel desination’ contact “the Government. ~ Office of Tourism, ON "ay, Canada, K1A036.: an ote eng ne t AN a er oy » 4 Guildford 588-4466 Lansdowne 270-1771 Park Royal 926-5555 Victoria 382-7141 Nanalmo 753-0151 Eaton’s Travel! Guarantee. We've checked these .— Eaton Tours and can tell you how and where to get the most for your travel dollars. Better still, when you book through us your travel arrangements are protected by Eaton’s Travel Guarantee. Remember you can ‘charge your holiday’ to your Eaton’s Ac- count. Prices quoted are the lowest available at press time. They may vary according to departure dates and are subject to availability at time of booking. Price may not include alrport taxes.