Sheidon

CUISINE SCENE

WE SEEM to wait the entire
winter for something more
than a stash of apples, some
late pears, a bright persim-
mon or two at Christmas,
and lots of nice grapes.

Some imported fruits come in
now and then at inflated prices and
under-ripe semi peakness of flavor
from half-way across the globe
(usually Chile or down under).

Then comes summer and it all
happens at once. A virtual cornu-
copia of bright berries, cherries, and
fruits of all sorts. An avalanche that
hits us: a case of too much all at
once, And great stuff it is.

Take cherries, for instance. 1
drove up to Bob's Fruit Stand in
North Vancouver Jast week to stock
up on those strawberries I was
telling you about. And Bob said,
“The berries will be finished in
about a week or so, but dook at the
cherries we’ ve got today!” As I
said: here one minute; gone the
next.

He was right. I have never seen
(or tasted) cherries as wonderful as
this year’s crop. They are coming in
from the Okanagan.

As the pick moves up north as
the season progresses, the cherries
wil! come from Summerland, and
then Kelowna. And they are beau-
ties!

Bob tells me that the dark sweet
varieties (in right now) are bing,
vans, sams and that lamberts are
soon to arrive. The bings are those
huge monsters, crisp and dark and
sweet and just bursting with cherry
flavor. The iamberts are just about
the same, but a little more “heart”
shaped, with a smaller pit.

Then comes the elegant, perish-
able, fragile-variety. The prized
ranier.

They are a large, gorgeous spec-
imen predominantly white in color
with a golden tinge and a rosy blush
on one side. Our dear postal carrier,
Susan, lived in North Vancouver
until last year. She sold her house
and moved up to Brackendale.

That former house had the rnost

EDGEMONT VILLAGE
Corner of Edgemont Bivd. + Queens

glorious ranier cherry tree just
bursting with bushels full. always
wondered how she left that tree.

When the raniers make their
appearance, buy some and don't do
a thing to them except cat (and
enjoy) them out of hand, Sweet and
delicate — a cherry to respect,

Finally will come the “pie cher-
ries" —- the sour cherry. Towards
the end of July (when all the cher-
ties will be gone for the year).
Nothing like a sour cherry pie, still
wanm from the oven, with thick-
ened juices and a big scoop of
vanilla ice cream.

Try to select cherries with nice
green stems (not dried out brown
stems — a give-away that they have
been stored).

The skin should be taught, firm
and shiny and the cherries should
feel heavy for the weight. Nice deep
color (for the Bing types) indicates
they have been allowed to mature
(and sweeten up ) on the tree —
where they belong.

Cherries make glorious eating,
just as they are. A quick rinse under
cold water is all-they need. A big
bow! full is what I like — with no
sharing!

Cherries do make wonderful
desserts as well. Pies, cobblers,
crisps and iritters, Condiments too
— chutneys, brandied, pickled and
made up into thick ruby-red pre-
serves.

I've included some recipes to get
you started. Look in your own
librery of cookbooks under “cher-
ries,” and you'll be surprised i at the
offerings.

Toss some pitted whole cherries
in your next batch of bran muffins.
Add a cup or so to your next dense
chocolate cake. Sugar them, let
macerate for an hour or so, then
pour them over ice cream or Angel
food cake.

Just enjoy them, because come
the end of July, they're gone until
next year!

CHERRY CLAFOUTIS

A clafoutis (pronounced clah-
foo-tee) is a batter cake, with a
slightly custard-like texture. The
French typically prepare it with
fresh cherries that are unpitted
(warn your guests!), but I think it
safer to use whole pitted cherries
for the recipe.

Your local cookware store will
have a handy cherry piiter, which
works well with olives as well;
worth the meager investment for the
work saved!

Serve this dish lukewarm, fresh-
ly baked, with a dusting of confec-
tioner's sugar over the top. For the
prettiest presentation, bake this
recipe in a white porcelain fluted
quiche pan (typically French), flut-
ed glass or ceramic quiche dish.
Serve in wedges directly from the
pan.

Makes one 8" or 9” (20 or 23
cm) deep dish (2” or 5 cm deep).

2 generous c. (500 mL) cherries,

We reserve the right to limit quantities. Prices in effect from Wed., July 6—Tues., Jue 42/94

OS AETENNAENT SPLEEN

ny
BOB'S FRUIT Stand in Delbrook Plaza is bursting with fresh cherries. eens Springer dis-

plays some of the gargeous Bing and Van varieties offered now.

pitted (not halved!)
4 large eggs
14 c. 375 mL) whole milk
4%e. (125 mL) all purpose fiour
%c. (50 mi.) granulated sugar
% tsp. (.5 mL) salt
2 tsp. (10 mL) vanilla extract
Softened butter
Confectioner’s sugar

Pit, rinse, and thoroughly dry the
cherries. Generously butter the bak-
ing dish with softened butter.
Spread whole cherries evenly over
bottom of dish. Set aside for a few
minutes while preparing batter.

In a blender or food processor,
combine the eggs, milk, four,
sugar, salt and vanilla. Blend for
one minute. Scrape down sides and
blend for additional minute. Batter
should be creamy smooth.

Slowly pour prepared batter
evenly over cherries to cover. Bake
in the pre-heated 350°F (180°C)
oven about 60-75 minutes or until
custard-like cake is set and a tester
comes out clean,

. Cool the clafoutis on a wire rack
to barely warm. Serve dusted gener-
ously with confectioner’s sugar.

Summer wpe skinning comms
ages 7 to adult
fearn sungle rape. fangrope
double dutch, unitines
9:00 = 12:00 daily
‘Brooksbhro’ Clementary School

28 GREAT CAILPS

July 4-July 8, July F115. duly 15.22

925-1597

OLD-FASHIONED
CHERRY PIE

Wheia the sour cherries come
into market later this month, roll
out your favorite pastry and try this
simple and delicious traditional
cherry pie. Serve freshly baked with
a big scoop of vanilla ice cream —
nothing better!

Makes one 9” (23 cm) pie.
2 Ibs. (1 kg) sour pie cherries,

pitted
2 Thsp. (30 mL) tiny tapioca
2 Tbsp. (30 mL) cornstarch
1c. (250 mL) granulated sugar
Pinch ground cinnamon
Pie pastry for a double-crust pie
1 egg yolk
1 Tbsp. (15 mL) milk
Granulated sugar

Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).
Line a shallow baking sheet with

baking parchment and set aside.

Roil pie pastry to line a deep pie
dish, fluting edges. Chill while
preparing filling. Have lattice strips
cut ready to top pie and chill (as
well) on a cookie sheet.

Prepare the filling. Stem, rinse,
dry and pit the cherries. Cherries
should measure a generous 4c, (1
L). Toss cherries with the tapioca
and cornstarch, sugar and cinna-
mon. Allow filling to sit just until
dry ingredients are dissolved (about
five minutes). Pour filling at once
into chilled shell.

Top pie with woven (or crossed)
lattice strips, adhering to edges with
a bit of cold water to seal.

Brush top of crust with an egg-
glaze (beat the yolk with the milk)

See Cherries page 47

on

* SHRIMP CAESAR SALAD

% ORIENTAL SHRIMP PASTA SALAD

* SEAFOOD SHRIMP QUICHE
SHRIMP HOLLANDAISE CROISSANT

[| 4 SUPER SHRIMP CROISSANT SANDWICH
onty °4°°

EACH

AVAILABLE UNTIL JULY 23, 1994

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THE BAY CAFE’S “ee i :

Complimentary Coffee / Tea

with the purchase of one of our
Super Shrimp Festival menu items

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1
VALID UNTIL JULY 23, 1994 i a

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