14 - Sunday, August 23, 1992 - North Shore News

FASHION
Dressing like men

44 Designers aiso show |
ladylike menswear. -

STATEMENTS

” ARBROGYNOUS LOOKS

all,.as traditional menswear.
nspires:’ iadies’ clothing.
tailored, .

truly dap-—

"come out of the closet this .

"shaped ‘and ce -
ein ways : es

clothing :shown in designers’ col

” Iections has slipped in and out of.

“fashion: many .times.. Now, - an-

"back: and ‘the::western moa

nd al wear into”

ier. this fall’s inspira- . ©

nes from. the’.

°70s rock --

c Edwardian

professionals “which:

unways this ;, fall -

f ‘the past. stood. for :

and ‘immaculate -

omen to: acquire the style,~

tice many. would-say it looks bet-

“Take, for example,.a

the: last .dandy-ettes, 7 :
n his velvet jacket,

ches, silks and’ slippers, ..--

vel int arr “2

i Bean Brominell,.- had: *

meticulously well-kept. ap- |

‘pearance. and = manner, he was |
lar ely Sat tena on by others of

S. dong cutaway jacket. -

the trademarks: of a dandy’s style. .
oday, wonien. have learned the

nough to dress - just like *

longer. em .
‘2: The: women who power-dressed.
siness

large-shouldered, totally.

masculine. suits. a few. years. AGO © -

“nave found that it now takes more

~ to have presence in the workplace...”
slipped -

That: is-why: designers: have ‘taken

to;Dandy-ism for the" latest twist

on cross-dressing. «
Standard - unitorm: of the. 90s
dandy: includes: a top hat, tails or

extra: long Jacket, narrow pants,
ad ite shirt. Also,. an ascot, :

in uniform-like -

“slim ° curve-clinging pants.

‘or: cravat, cane, “poutonniere,
boots, and “perhaps : 2 monocle.
..(The.:: monocie’s: :symbclism « has

“become :.a .controversial -subject -.

because of its ‘association with
“menswear-attired lesbians of. the
i

~- This means . that not only do
women wear similar clothing as
-men, they don thé extras ioc — as

if they. have adopted the true style”
of aman.

these details we now “have .
season who dandy to their dress-

Here are some designers this

-ing:

Perry” Enis adds. a *70s

‘rock'n'roll . twist to™- his’ dandy .

suits. He suits women in skinny
“ black: and--white checked pants

“and -matching thigh-length narrow -
jackets. with very. little shoulder: .
com-

plemented with a derby hat and a.

-padding. The. ‘look -
‘man’s long scarf.
Ralph. Lauren’s models are

blazers that‘end at the hip- over
They
“are ‘smartly accessorized .with an
‘ascot, “walking. stick, - bowler hat,
and evena monocle.. «

‘Anna’. Sui’s. fall designs. mix |

‘Edwardian jackets and shirts: with

‘into’ fitted pinstriped -* i

_ Mick Jagger-inspired skinny, pants 2
‘for an’ eclectic . menswear-.-
~ ‘turned-womenswear look. A dan--

dified velvet long. jacket, black

leather vest, ruffled white pirate:

shirt, stretchy black pants and
°70s shoes add-up to this strictly
mannish outfit
woman...
Designers also show - ladylike
menswear... They’ve created suits

_ that: are obviously influenced , by -
"men’s ~ business “attire,
- given . a... womenswear... fit:. and
vultra-femininé “extras.

but. are

These
women’s ‘suits aré’ influenced “by
menswear, yes, but. also” by
famous women of: “the ‘past - ‘who

- liked to dréss like mer.
These locks: are ‘reminiscent of :

certain - manutish-dressed. . women
of the.’20s. Coce.Chane}, for ex-

ample, wore all’ her male friends’.

and lovers’ clothing, and later us-
ed them as inspiration for design-
ing her own.

Blues singer ‘Gladys Benticy ap-.
peared at ’20s nightclubs: in a tux:
and top hat. ©.

, And: several female

artists in. 1920’s Paris

who were openly. lesbi

‘completely male attire.

- wore. Menswear - trousers, :

made -for a V-necked, .

. They’ ve created suits

a: straight trot

; r
:. rounds the ‘lapels: and - adds
“-- floral ,blouses. beneath : and:

THE ‘908 menswear look for ladies: with different influences.

The “cross-dressing” ‘starlets: “of

the 40s also’ have ‘an influence.

Well-known": menswear *. dressers
such . as: - Mgdene.: ‘Dietzich © and
Katherine Hepburn aiways looked
tadylike off-screen _ when - they
crisp
white . shirts, ” jackets, -
cardigans, ties and oxfords.-
And.

men’s clothing... Judy Gertand, ‘for
instance, forgot her. troubies and

‘~ danced gayly in a man's hat, shirt
‘and blazer, looking. very ‘risque “'’
-with. n6- pants worn beneath, -in:*.

the-- movie ““Summer.° Stock:
Garland frequeatly dressed like

man in: films and ‘showed a relax- i

ed ease with it.:.

«Here: are.some. designers: show.

ing ‘women-who-dress- like
women‘d esed-as-men:

. jacket..are teamed-:with a white:
French-cuffed : * shirt: piled- high

even . on-screen. movie '
stars influenced women’s’ love of:

and iittie fitted Skull caps. .

"> trousers with a“ crisp ; whit
and: derby: ha

en ad

fabrics. Double:

_ breasted : styles