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page 36 - June 22, 1977 - North Shore News

Knowing about some dif-
ferent kinds of annual garden
flowers is a bit like having a

fairy godmother in the
house. It can help’ you
transform a plain yard into a
princess landscape.

Here’s a sampling of some
lore on a half dozen:

The garden ASTER is a
large double flower with a
pleasing range of colors and
heights. It is often called the
China aster to distinguish its
orientai origins and separate-
ness from the fall blooming
perennial aster which has
daisy-like flowers.

BELLS OF IRELAND is a
novelty with tallish stems
strung with green bells in

which grow the true tiny
white flowers.

CALENDULA, called. pot-
marigold by herb gardeners
who snip the flower heads to
flavor stews and soups, has
fine. garden flowers that are
semi-double to fully double
in yellow to orange hues.
Good as cut flowers, also,
calendula grows best during

the cool of the growing
season. —

Every homeowner wants to
‘have a garden which is
admired. When you see a
bautiful garden you can be
sure the homeowner has
done a lot of preparation.

To improve growth, one
important chore is mulching.
Mulching prevents evapora-
tion from the soil. and
smothers weeds. It also
keeps direct sunlight from
reaching the soil thus keep-
ing soil temperatures con-
stant. A layer of peat moss,
grass clippings or plastic
sheeting acts as a good
mulch. Don’t use anything
that will pack down and
prevent air and moisture
from reaching the roots.

SECOND PLANTING

There is still time for a
second planting in your
vegetable garden. All seeds
are not going to produce at
this late date but a few that
will are spinach, lettuce and
radishes. Prepare the soil
just as you did for the first
planting, then sow the seeds
directly into the garden rows.
These vegetables -have a
short edible season so it’s a

good idea to plant them two

or even three times during
the summer for a fresh and
continuous supply. .

‘ n

As a. special | precaution
‘when planting late. in the

season, include | side
dressing of Pink Vigoro (25
Ibs. to 1,000 sq. feet) to
stimulate ‘good growth pro-

PLANTED AROUND A TREE, a cluster of swarf marigolds provides a buffer zone to
protect the bark from damage by the lawnmower. _

Most often used as edging,

DUSTY MILLER is a soft.
silver-gray foliage plant so -

complimentary to bright
color masses of other
annuals. .

- Brilliant, almost fluores-
cent, the daisy-like flowers of
GAZANIA grow at the ends

GARI

with
Doc Hartnoll

duction. Be sure to water

well all summer because they

cannot survive the hot

weather without sufficient:

moisture.

ROSES

Now that you’ve enjoyed
your first rose blooms and to
make them be: as beautiful
for the new bloom, let’s see
how they are produced. If fed
with Vigoro Rose Food, they
would have been full, the
foliage green and shiny with
strong caries. Plant food is
necessary for good growth,
not just for roses, but for the
whole garden. The only time
the root system of plants can

get food is when you supply
i But plant food ‘doesn’t
control diseases and fungi on
plants, so. it’s wise to spray

or dust any plants in: your
garden. =

Roses pick up Black Spot,
a fungi disease, which can be
easily controlled using
new systemic fungicide, 50%
Captan. Sprays of 50%
Malathion, - Sevin or other

the

of leafless stalks above a
leafy rosette rather like. a

spectacular .dandelion.. The
striking blooms close for the

evening and reopen in the
morning.

THUNBERGIA, or black.
eyed Susan vine, quickly

sends stems with triangular

‘insecticides are most effec-

tive to control insects in the
‘garden or a combined rose
dust or spray which has both
protectants make spraying
an easier chore. It’s also a

good plan to pick up and
burn, if allowed. leaves that
have beep contaminated. If
allowed to remain on the soil
they will contaminate the
young tender leaves. Re-
move fallen leaves to keep
diseases from spreading to
‘other plants and prevent
them from over-wintering in
the soil. Mulching rose beds
with cocoa bean hulls helps:
to grow clean healthy rose
bushes ond makes the bed
look attractive.

Regular spraying is a
must. Don’t forget to spray
the underside of the foliage
and feed again mid-month or
at the end of the month.

IRIS TRANSPLANTING

If your Iris plants are
crowded and large, then
there is too much competi-
tion for food and water.

growth,

leaves climbing up trellis
work or rambling on fencing.

Large dark-centered flowers,

in white, sulfur-yellow or
orange depending upon var-
iety, soon appear and conti-
nue until frost. The vine also
is handsome displayed in

hanging baskets and window
boxes.

Divide and. reduce the
clumps every few years. Dig
out a whole clump of
rhizomes. These are the thick
underground stems __ that
store food for the leaves. Cut

‘them apart with a sharp

knife. Each division must
have at lease one fan of
leaves to serve as a growing

point, a portion of healthy

rhizome, and a number of
well-developed roots. When
separated from the original
clump, each division is then
ready to be replanted.
Smaller divisions produce
fewer blooms for next year
but means you don’t have to

divide again for three to five
years.

- PERENNIAL SEEDS

This is a good time to start
perennials from seeds. Loos-
en the soil bed by working in
plenty of peat moss. Rake
carefully until the surface is
fine and level. Sow the seeds
in’ rows and cover them

lightly with soil (the depth of

covering will depend on the.
size of the seed). Water with.
a fine spray and keep
shaded. When there are
about two or three inches of
transplant to the
perennial bed.

If you have any questions,
write to me at the Garden
Information Centre, 165 Uni-
versity Avenue,
Ontario MSH 3B8, enclosing

a stamped self addressed:

envelope.

Toronto,

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