GR iood

ee

- «
—_— . —_—— .

‘STRONG AS THE DEVIL, BLACK AS NIGHT’

The elusive, perfect brew

SPEAKING OF DRINKS, the perfect cup of
coffee is as elusive in this household as the perfect
adjective. How do you make yours?

No. goodness, don't tell
me about “instant”; handy as
it may be, it isn't really
coffee, is it? When I look
over my shoulder at the trail
of pots and processers that
have had time in my kitchen,
I wonder if in fact it is at all
possible to brew coffee that
fulfills the promise of its
beguiling aroma as it is
ground.

For something that every —

ume falls short of perfection,
it sure keeps us coming
back. We've boiled it, over a
campfire and on a_ coal
stove; we've steeped it, like
tea, in an enamelled jug:
we've added salt, egg-shells,
dry mustard and chicory.
we've dripped, percolated,
filtered and cranked our own
grinder full of carefully
chosen beans. Only rarely
has it been just right — more
often it is almost.

Someone, and my Bartlett
fails to reveal his name,
described the perfect cup of
coffee as “strong as the
devi, hot as hell, sweet as an
angel and black as-night-
(That may not be quite mght,
but it’s in that direction.) He
lived in an earlier century

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984-6343

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© We also carry & good selection of gifts and crafts «

that hadn't yet got hung up
on the horrors of car-
cinogens, and you could still
say things like that. It sounds
rather like the stuff that
comes out of an espresso
machine, and it’s probably
just as well for my nérvous
system that my kitchen's too
small to accommodate one
of those.

Percolating was proving
the best method for me, and
I thought I'd neutralized at
least some of the bad effects
by using a paper filter in the
basket, before putting very
finely ground coffee in it.
However it, too. drew
horrified comment, so as a
last resort I bought a
European-style coffee maker
that has a sort of plunger-
filler, and in which the
grounds are not cooked.

It looks like a_ large
straight-sided glass jug. with
a fitted plastic lid to which is
attached a long rod with a
metal mesh filter on the
other end. One measures
into the pot the ground
needed, pouring
boiling water to make the
necessary number of cups,
and allows steeping to

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Steadily down through the
water, trapping the grinds,
and the brew is ready to
drink.

But by this time it’s cooled
off. The glass pot is not
heatproof, so I've got this
cup of coffee that actually
tastes good and according to
the authorities is not going to
kill me as fast ag the other
stuff, but it’s cold.

Life. It’s just one coffee
pot after another.

(“Berrr
ey

a gr

@~\\ x

Paanaratnion

the
kitchen
ranger

by Eleanor
Godley

consume five or six minutes.
At the end of that time, the
plunger is pushed slowly and

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Spnng session starts the week
ot April 4

Leam the art of Japanese
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243 West 8th Ave, Vancouvel

Husqvarna A
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C15 - Sunday, March 20, 1983 - North Shore News

Oscarsson's

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TUESDAY
WEDNESDAY

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North Vancouver

980-7031

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