18 - Sunday, September 29, 1991 - North Shore News

FASHION

Chanel detested confining
women’s clothes of the ’20s

From page 16

peacoats, belted raincoats or
women, gold chains on handbags,
and mixed-message dressing such
as shown by lots of dressy, femi-
nine jewelry worn with menswear
tweed.

Chanel disagreed with women
who shunned the healthy look of
a suntan because it was a sign of a
poor outdoor laborer, and instead

explained that it could also be ob- °

tained by wealthy women who
could afford to vacation often in
the south of France.

Born in France, Chanel was
born in 1883 and died in 1971.
She used her life experiences and
memories to inspire her designs.

Chanel was orphaned at an ear-
ly age, and it was the white-and-
black habits of the nuns who ran
the orphanage that influenced her
signature black-and-white color
combinations.

The neat little frocks she wore
as a schoolgirl gave her a fondness
for the silhouettes which she later
used for her dress designs. The
braid trim and military influence
of her jackets, a particular Chanel
trademark style, were influenced
by the military men who fre-
quented the town where she first
worked as a young woman.

The cardigan shapes, blazers,
trousers, tweeds and sailor outfits
she so loved were inspired from
the men in her life whom she
never married.

Chanel Beaute

Chanel created the first designer
perfume, along with its label, in
the early 1920s. Chanel No. 5, has
become one of the best selling
fragrances of ali time. Chanel No.
19, designed exclusively for her
own personal use, was only sold
to the public after her death.

From petal to package, a lot of
care goes into making each per-
fume. There are over S00 compo-
rats in each of Chanel’s per-
fumes and there is no recipe. The
firm’s expert nose, Jacques Polge,
has to mix ingredients each time it
is made to get the exact fragrant
smell.

Jasmine, the major ingredient in
Chanel No. 5, is picked from
special Chanel fields in France,
and it is only picked when it is at
its best from. 5 to 9 a.m.

The major ingredient in Chanel
No. 19 is iris, and it is also picked
when it is at its best quality after
three years of growth. The

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fragrance line now consists of
several scents for both men and
women including the most recently

introduced women’s fragrance,
Egoiste.
Lagerfeld’s influence on the

younger market has influenced the
perfume lines of the company.
Consequently the original Chanel
fragrances, Chanel No. 5 and No.
19 are top sellers for both
young-and-trendy and more
sophisticated markets.

In the early 1930s, Chanel in-
troduced a small line of cosmetics
to further create hee image of the
total look to go with her clothing
and accessory designs. She once
explained, ‘‘The true aim of
makeup is not to ornament, but to
enhance.”

Chanel believed that natural
looking makeup and clear,
beautiful skin was just as impor-
tant to an appearance as the
clothing.

It wasn’t until 1974 that a com-
plete line called Chanel Beaute
was launched. As Chanel would
have demanded, designer Karl
Lagerfeld now has direct influence
on the makeup colors chosen to
complement the fabrics in his
clothing collections each season.
The line now also includes a full
range of skincare products.

For fall and winter, 1991, to
sum up the Chanel look in make-
up: dramatic eyes balanced by
natural colors on tke lips.

The key makeup trends include
a matte finish which is very sheer.
Sultry eyes are dramatically
shadowed and smudge-lined in all
black cr dark brown.

Lips are colored in matte brick,
natural browns or deep red. Nails
are bright, in orange and bright
red lacquer.

Makeup is said to be inspired

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by the fashions of the 1950s and
1960s, with a return to the deep

intense colors defined with
eyeliner and sometimes false
eyelashes.

“The emphasis is definitely on
the eyes now. There is a return to
dark, smoky shaped eyes and lush
full lashes,’’ said Dominique
Moncourtois Directeur Creation
Maquillage at Chanel Paris.

“The difference today is that it
is a softened look, never harsh,
with a sophisticated, modern ap-
peal,’’ said Moncourtois.

This revival has inspired three
mew products. Cil Magiques, an
instant lash mascara, thickens and
strengthens lashes with a silk pro-
tein. formula enriched with
vitamins to stimulate growth and
prevent drying. It is available in
black, brown, navy and emerald.

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