Capers keeps it simple

Capers Restaurant at Capers food store, 2496 Marine D7., West
Vancouver, 925-3316. Visa and Mastercard accepted. Open for
breakfast, lunch and dinner Monday to Saturday. Open for

breakfast and lunch Sunday. Take the kids or call a babysitter?

You cond do either.

HE INDULGENCES of the recently vanquished festive

season require shouldering some serious penance to

offset the guilt that accompanies the consumption of
too much turkey, too many heavy sauces, too much fat, too

much cholesterol.

Diners need an organic shrine
of vitality, sustainability and purity;
they, like Table Hopping, need to

. cleanse their culinary souls; they
need a trip to Capers.

And to Capers we went.

Away red’ meat, away conspicu-
ous consumption, away animal
fats, away cigarette smokers.

Bring on all things green; bring
on all things wholesome; bring on

raw goodness from the good earth.
And while you are at it, barkeep,

bring me a quick two fingers of
carrot juice ($2) — the single-malt ,
* scotch of the vegetarian set.
Capers continues to deliver the
goods for those ascending the
higher levels of culinary con-
sciousness and for the weaker
among us needing a serving of
redemption.
~ Its menu champions vegetables
- over red meats and quality of in-
gredients over quantity of serving.

~ -” Its decor is bursting with the

“floral details of good, clean living,
and its smoke-free atmosphere,

driven by a soundtrack of classical’

‘music and casual folksy service,
brings out the repressed flower
child in us all.

But the attention to food detail
and customer service has
wandered since the restaurant's
original glory days when its kitch-

‘en was run: by the gifted Diana St.

: Onge.

, Perhaps it was the time of day —
4:30 p.m., between lunch and

Timothy Renshaw
TABi_E HOPPING

dinner — perhaps its was the time
of year — between Christmas and
New Year's Eve -- but whatever
the reason, Table Hopping’s last
meal at the restaurant was just not
up to previous Capers standards.

We’ opened with a cup of the
evening’s Vegetable Goulash ($2)
soup special, the Curried Cauli-
flower having run out.

It arrived warm, but just barely.
A few more degrees would have
added much to the enjoyment of
the soup, which was well made
with good-sized chunks of potato,
slices of onion and cabbage, beans
and a robust broth enlivened with
herbs and fennel seeds.

A sampled Spinach Salad ($5.95)
came with a colorful raspberry
vinaigrette over spinach leaves,
thin rings of red onion and
mushroom slices.

- Grated fresh Fontina cheese
covered the salad, but the adver-
tised grated boiled egg accom-

paniment was no where to be
seen.

The overall effect was a some-
what dry rendering of the classic
salad.

My Veggie Burger ($7.95) suf-
fered from similarly arid prepara-
tion. It came on a large plate ac-
companied by a generous Ro-
maine lettuce salad beneath sim-
ple vinaigrette.

The main veggie patty was a
deep brick red topped with fresh
mushrooms and white Monterey
Jack cheese. Also in the
wholewheat sesame-seec -lopped
bun were lettuce, onions and
tomato.

It was a hefty approximation of a
real hamburger. But a generous
slathering of some organic
mayonnaise would have helped
immeasurably.

The patty itself, though no doubt
bursting with wholesome
goodness, looked synthetic and
was just not appetizing.

Service during our meal was
friendly, but far from attentive
considering that the restaurant was
not busy.

Capers’ always excellent selec-
tion of homemade desserts
beckoned (pies $2.95, add a dollar
if you want whipped cream,
Chocolate Cake, $3.95, Carrot
Cake, $2.95, and Fruit Crumble, °
$2.95), but we saved them for
another visit.

Cappuccinos and other steamed
milk specials (around $2) are also
available, along with a trio of
wines by the gloss, half litre and
bottle ($3.75 to $17.95).

Capers is still the best place to
purge sinfully fat-laden diets on
the North Shore, but renewed ef-
fort in its kitchen is needed to br-
ing it back to its standing as one of
the best places in the Lower
Mainland to enjoy exciting
nouvelle West Coast vegetarian
and otherwise whelesome cuisine.

ON'T LET. FHIS OFFER GETAWAY!
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Dinner
for 14.0 Just

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fabulous offer

Choose ANY TWO entrees up
toa value of $12.95 each.

- STEP 3: and svi

Enjoy meal... save
up 0910.95 per couple.

(P.S. Choose two entrees greater

than $12. 95 each and sul seceve
the maximum discount of $10.95.

Not valid
Expires February B92)

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RICHMOND
8331 River Road 273-7835 -
WHITE ROCK
14935 Marine Dr. 536-7320
NEW WESTMINSTER
900 Quayside 525-3474
: HORSESHOE BAY
a NSN 6695 Nelson 921-8188

all you can eat RIBS

with soup or salad
every day of the week

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$1295

Wednesday, January 29, 1992 - North Shore News -.29 “

A WHOLESOME harvest...Fresh charbrotled B.C. salmon pres}
ented with a melange of rice and vegetables. and .a-s! ;
spaghetti equash at Capers restaurant in West Vancouver.

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VALENTINES Day Lasts
Act MontH Lona -
Wit Our FesurAryY
WEEKEND GETAWAY... =

Dinner, Detuxe Guestroom & BREAKFAST
U.S. Funos/Inciupes Tax
Dinner for two includes a special dessert
1 Night deluxe accommodations Fri: or Sat.
Breaktast for two (Sat. night includes Sun. brunch)
Free transportation to Everett & Alderwood malis
Champagne upon arrival ($10 extra)’

Live entertainment & dancing ~
Indoor pool, spa & exercise facilities

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For Reservanions CALL
1-800-426-0670

_ eWestCoaste
Everett Pacific.

3105 Pine Street Everett, WA 98201 (206) 339-3333
Subject to room availability. Expires 2/29/92 Fate includes tax.
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Emerald Park
” Restaurant

350 E. 2nd St. NVan. 988-8353 _