MAKEUP TIPS

K'ASHION

15 — Sunday, May 14, 1989 - North Shore News

Use principles of light and shadow
to camouflage facial imperfections

ARE YOU self-conscious about an
overly round face or a pointed
chin? You can use the principles of
light and shadow combined with
the skills of makeup artistry to
“sculpt”? your face.

These tricks help to camouflage
imperf«ctions in order to create an
illusion of balance and symmetry.

Contouring with a dark shade
makes an area of the face recede
and look smaller, while
highlighting with a light shade br-
ings forward and makes areas of
the face appear larger.

Contouring colors and
highlighters should be applied
subtly and blended thoroughly to
prevent an unnatural look.

Cosmetics
need special
attention

ALMOST ALL cosmetics that
contain coloring agents are sen-
sitive to ultraviolet and visible
radiation — keep them out of
direct sun and away from win-
dows.

In addition, dampness can affect
both powder-based and cream-
based makeup.

High humidity causes powders
to crumble, or, it may create the
ideal conditions for mold to form
on cream-based cosmetics.

Cosmetics will last longer and
stay fresher if you keep them on a
vanity table in your bedroom,
rather than in the bathroom where
you shower.

Never leave cosmetics in your
car in very cold or very hot
weather.

When you travel by plane, carry
your cosmetics with you rather
than packing them in your checked
luggage.

Keep your cosmetics away from
drafty windows, heating ducts, or
air-conditioning outlets.

Containers should always be
closed securely to protect contents
from dust or environmental soils,
and be sure to wash your hands
before using cosmetics.

Clean cosmetic brushes after you
use them.

Lip, blending, eye, blusher, and
powder brushes should be carefully
wiped clean with a tissue, and
eyeshadow brushes should be
rinsed with tepid water and gently
dried with a tissue when they
become soiled.

Once a month wash your
brushes in mild detergent and rinse
them with tepid water. Be sure to
dry them thoroughly before stor-
ing. A cool, dry storage place for
brushes will help them last longer.

All disposable items for makeup
application — cotton balls or cot-
ton swabs, for example -—— should
be kept in closed containers to
keep them clean. Do not use them
more than once.

Tips For Application
® Apply highlighters and contours
with a brush. Blend them together
well with a cosmetic sponge. Do
not leave any lines of demarcation.
© Choose a highlighter that is only
one shade lighter than your foun-
dation and a contour that is one
shade darker.
© Pearlized powders, blushers, and
foundations can also be used to
“‘sculpt’”’ the face.
Corrective Contouring Techniques
Round face: Using a dark contour-
ing powder or foundation, start at
the sides of the forehead and blend
down the sides of the face and
around the jawiline.
Squere face: Using a dark contour-

ing powder or foundation, shade
along the corners of the forehead,
the hollow of the cheek (below the
cheekbone), and the jawline. This
will give a roundness to the face
and soften the straight angles cf
the forehcad and jawbone.

Inverted triangle: Using a dark
contouring powder or foundation,
shade both sides of the forehead
along the hairline. Highlight the
jawline area.

Diamond: Highlight both sides of
the forehead, as well as the jaw,
along the chinline. Shade from
temple to cheekbone along
hairline.

Triangle: Using a dark contouring
powder or foundation, shade along

the jawline starting at base of ears
to the beginning of the chin.
Highlight sides of forehead.
Pointed chin: To make this area
appear rounder, shade the tip of
the chin and highlight the jawline
area,

Receding chin: Highlight the area
starting from below the lower tip
and extending along the jawline to
the spot ending between the chin
and the ear.

Deable chin: Blend shader from
ear to ear, along the jawline and
under the chin.

Foli cheeks: To define the planes
of the face, apply a contour shade
in the hollow of the cheek, below
the cheekbone.

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