“DI NCEN.G ©.

Chez Michel retains
authentic character

From page 27
Chez Michel waitresses.

They run a tight service ship, but
what might be called the “air de
Denaire” is not so easily replaced.

The restaurant’s menu, howev-
er, has changed only slightly over
the past few years.

it is still a summary of good
French bistro cookery, presenting
an enticing balance of seafood and
red meat dishes.

For example, Prawns Nicoise
(available in appetizer — $14.95
for two — and entree — $16.95 —
portions) features the simplicity of
local sweet prawns pan-fried in
garlic butter and finished with
diced tomatoes and herbs.

Consume with slices of Chez
Michel melba toast for maximum
enjoyment.

Chez Michel entrees range from

Sole Amandine ($12.95) to Lapin A

La Moutarde ($16.95), Rack of
Lamb Au Jus ($16.95) and Beef
“Tenderloin “Neptune” ($17.95).
“> None is too ambitious, but
:none will disappoint.
_ Each is prepared with varied and
colorful vegetable accompaniment
‘and simple but distinctive sauces.

- CHARDONNAY —- COOKS
“LONGRIDGE HAWKES BAY.
$10.35. (NEW ZEALAND).

if the words ‘New Zealand
wine’! conjure up foxy, ethyl-
glycol-boosted Chenin Biancs or
’... bizarre aberrations made from
“fermented kiwi fruit, chill down.
Specifically, chill down a bottle
. -of this unpretentious Kiwi char-
idonnay, which has just a tasteful

- hint of oak to enhance rather than
-mask a fruitiness that surrenders

‘ “more soft pear than tart apple in
the after-glow.

: BAO — CONDE DE SANTAR
> 1986. $8.85. (PORTUGAL).
__ . There are a number of Por-
- tuguese reds about, labelled
“Dao,” “Bairrada’’ or “'Gar-
-safeira.”

Based mainiy on the late-ripen-
‘ing Baga grape, they all have a
perceptible ‘edge’ reminiscent,
not surprisingly, of port; an over-
whelming fruttiness that just misses

'. sweetness.

There is perhaps less flourish in
Chez Michel’s kitchen now than
there was during the Lassaga era.
But the cooking retains an 2uthen-
tic French character.

Chez Michel also boasts one of
the best French wine lists on the
North Shore, with dozens of fine
Bourdeaux and Burgundy selec-
tions that diners will find nowhere
else.

And for those interested in ex-
periencing some of the peerless
quality of French wines, Segur is
an enthusiastic and knowl-
edgeable guide.

Desserts are a standout at Chez
Michel.

Crepes Suzette ($10.95 for two),
Peche Melba ($4.50), Creme Car-
amel ($3.75), Sabayon ($10.95 for
two), and many more selections
made on the premises, are
uniformly excellent.

Chez Michel continues to pres-
ent an authentic and high-quality
French dining experience that will
shed a fresh light upon even the
most beastly of weeks.

Reserve a window seat, and
check your demons at the door.

Conde de Santar is one of the
few estate-bottled wines from the
Dao region; most of the others are
cooperative blends of wildly vary-
ing quality, so at this price, you -
can afford to drink the best.

Distinctly superior to fruity
wines like Beaujolais or the bulk
Merlots flooding the market,
which aren‘t worth drinking after
two years, the Daos and Bairradas
can be celtared for 15 to 20 years
to acquire w' hat the Portuguese
call “poumada’’ — the fantastic
fragrance of fine claret.

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