inary cal MANY¥O SUSHI JAPANESE RESTAURANT, 180 EAST SECOND STREET, NORTH VANCOUVER, 980-1510. VISA AND MASTER- CARD ACCEPTED MANY O has always seemed to me to be an extremely civilized place to eat. Outside its non-descript walls, urban automobile enthusiasts regu- larly test braking and acceleration efficiency along the short Second Street strip, but inside Manyo the mood is always serene. Waitresses, attired in traditional Japanese geisha garb, offer polite bows and an understated welcome, while head sushi chef Yuki Kasukawa barks out a friendly single syllable greeting to all new arrivals, But despite its incongruous calm in a raucous neighborhcod storm, Manyo has managed, after eight years, to assimilate into its sur- roundings and become a local din- ing fixture. The restaurant’s menu has in- creased in depth and complexity since my last official visit, which should be good news for the grow- ing number of North Shore resi- dents who appreciate the subtle flavors that abound in food adul- terated with minimal yet deft human embellishment. Borrowing a successful page from the menus of its Chinese counterparts, Manyo has included a full section of complete package-deal meals in its new menu. Prices range from $15.50 fora five-course Tempura Dinner up to $18.75 for an eight-course Manyo Special feast. All the culinary package tours feature stops in appetizer, soup and entree ports of call in what is a Coles Notes-style introduction to Japanese food. The menu also covers most now-familiar Japanese food bases and some that might not be so fa- miliar: Butteryaki, which comes with Beef ($9.75) and Salmon ($9.50), features food sauteed in butter; a Donburi section, with - PARTIALLY WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBLE. iA RENSHAW table hopping five Don-suffixed selections (all $6), presents various meats and vegetables layered with Japanese rice. There is also a good selection of teriyakis, tempuras and noodle- based udons, but when I go Japa- nese | sharpen the samurai sword and cut a direct swath to the sushis and sashimis. . They afone provide the cool, clean raw food and open-sea fia- vors the digestive tract and tastebuds scream for when the subject of Japanese cuisine hits the Table Hopping planning table. And Manyo’s sushi never fails to silence those screams. On a recent visit, I loaded the family into one of Manyo’s three sturdy booths for our own privacy and for the protection of other patrons from the fallout of noise, spills and disciplinary shrieks that makes family dining such an adventure in living. For parents of very young folk, Manyo booths have the added feature of sunken floors beneath dining tables. The handy toddler pits can be used as emergency se- curity compounds for the relent- lessly restless. Food tested included Gyoza ($4.75), a Japanese dumpling with soft rice noodle exterior stuffed with a mixture of spices, ground pork and green onions; and Chicken Yakitori, three skewers of broiled chicken interspersed with pieces of green onion and pres- AN OCEAN OF ORIGINAL AND CLASSIC SUSHIS LOVINGLY PREPARED Try cur rainbow roll — a deliciously colourful roll of sea-eel, cucumber, salmon, snapper and egg &, and spinach, or mushroom sushi with shifake mushrooms. TAKE-OUT and 23 - Friday, August 19, 1988 - North Shore News PRESENTING the bounty of the sea is Manyo-Sushi Japanese Restau- rant’s head sushi chef, Yuki Kasukawa. The Lower Lonsdale restaurant is a favorite spot for local Japanese food fans. sticky rice. Overall the meal, delivered by Manyo owner Masako Koahikawa, who doubles as a waitress, was ented over a thick, savory soya sauce. Both were very good. The dumplings were accompanied with an excellent hot pepper sauce and a shaker of Japanese pepper — an intriguing condiment made up of red pepper, sesame and poppy seeds. I took on Manyo’s Assorted Sashimi ($13). Unlike Sushi, its raw fish cousin, Sashimi has no buffer zone wrapp- ing of sticky Japanese rice to cush- ion palates from the full force of raw fish flavors. It is stark and sensational, but for the sushi sophomore only. Manyo’s version included two. whole prawns, whose heads frightened the children into tem- porary silence, four slabs of sweet, raw tuna, two slices of white geoduck and another pair of mackerel slabs. All were presented on a black laquered dish lined with a bold - green leaf and accompanied by a large pat of wasabi, Japan’s sinus-clearing green horseradish. The absence of salmon, which is extremely rich and creamy in its raw state, was disappointing, but overall the dish was appealing to both eye and palate. We also tried Manyo’s prawn, crab and octopus sunomonos ($3.50, $4 and $4.50). The sweet vinegar, cucumber and thin rice noodle salads are a good way for the uninitiated or unenthusiastic to ease into the more extreme regions of Japanese cuisine. My wife’s Special Assorted Sushi ($11.25) included an ex- cellent fish roe wrap topped with a small raw egg yolk and an interest- ing slice of soft-cooked herring atop the traditional seaweed and NEWS photo Cindy Beliamy good quality and prepared with above average Culinary skill. Manyo remains a perennial good bet to vanquish Japanese food cravings. Open every day, except Tuesday, for lunch and dinner. All You Can Eat Pizza Night Yes, all the mouthwatering Boston Pizza you can eat! Choose from our deluxe, pepperoni, or Hawaiian only. 3495 Mon. 5- 10:00 pm Pasta Pizzazz A whole plate of fresh pasta Night just $3.50 after 5:00 p.m. 2 for 1 Ribber Dinner Our succulent ribs served with Garlic Toast and your choice of spaghetti or Boston spuds. 2 for only Thurs. 5- 1:00 am All offers dine in only. Not to be used with other promotional offers. ‘Remember, Beverage Specials Nightly’ CATERING AVAILABLE 980-1510 iso East 2nd, North Van.