No pedestal f for this Deana Lancaster News Reporter deana@nusnews.com FROM the picture win- dows of the Beach House at Dundarave Pier, the freighters at anchor in the Strait of Georgia are charcoal smudges against a flat grey sky. Inside, a steady hum of quiet conversation is the soundtrack for the restaurant’s lunch service. This is the domain of chef’ Sonny Mendoza — the place where he creates and puts together dishes that delight Beach House customers — dishes of deftly combined flavours and textures that explode in the mouth. He’s good at what he does. The restaurant continues to rake in awards from critics and diners alike. And he continues to try new things, staying with- in the definition of Pacific Northwest Cuisine, but “going all out.” At 29, he’s young for a head chef but he’s clearly com- fortable with his role. He worked hard to get here and he admits that people who knew him growing up on the North Shore often don’ t rec- ognize him now. At age 12 he came with his family from the Philippines. “I was new in the country, I didn’t know much about teenagers here. I had to take care of myself ... so I enforced what I knew. I got in a Ict of fights.” He got kicked out of Handsworth secondary in North Van after Grade 8, transferred to Carson Graham secondary, then moved again to Sentinel secondary ia West Van for his senior ycars. He graduated with his class because he’d decided co “just bear down and get through it.” He had a plan. In fact he’d known since age 15 what he wanied to do: “I didn’t throw dinner par- NEWS photo Mike Wexctield SONNY Mendoza of The Beach House at Dundarave Pier is one of “the new breed of chef,” who believes gaining the loyalty and trust of his customers is important. This summer Mendoza and the rest of The Beach House staff will be celebrating the restaurant's five-year anniversary. ties or anything, but I knew thar I had a knack for cook- ing.” His “knack” landed him at the top of his class in a cooking program at Lucas Centre, fol- lowed by a training program at BCIT. After an apprenticeship at The Prow, he moved on to the The Beachside Cafe, where he worked with chef Carol Chow. “People who knew me thought Prd dropped off the face of the earth. I really con- centrated on school and get- ting my career started.” In fact, it took off. At just 24 he took on the position of chef at what was then Peppi’s, just in time to help managing partner Ken Brooks oversee the changes and new menu development that would crans- form it into The Beach House. It was no easy task ... the restaurant serves 200 people a night, plus a decent-sized crowd for lunch. He had to design a menu thar was fresh, inspiring — and feasible for that many people. “I was ready for the chal- We're Grate! With everything you'll need to prepare it, cook it, bake it and serve It up, Tools and Techniques is the “gratest’ Place to find cooking suppiies and gifts! Vancouver’s most complete store for cooks helps make cooking and entertaining fun and exciting. Tools and Techniques also offers gourmet cooking classes end demonstrations. Tools and Techniques ita. www.thestoreforcecks.com 250° 16st: Street - West Vancouver: Tel: (604) 925-1835 Store Hours: Mon-Thurs 9-6 © Fri 9-7 ¢ Sat 9-6 « Sun 12-5 lenge. But back then I took a safer approach ... kept it sim- ple. There's not “much faith in a 24-year-old chef who doesn’t have a name.” But Brooks had faith in him, and as the restaurant approaches the fifth anniver- sary of its rebirth, so do his customers. “I think I've gained the loy- alty of our clients. They trust what I prepare and that gives me more freedom.” In an effort to further strengthen thar trust, last year Mendoza introduced “Sonny’s Afternoon Delights,” a chance for customers to come in the afternoon and sample new dishes that he was experiment- ing with. At the same time he could talk to them about ingredients and methods of preparation and answer any questions they might have for him. “It’s an opportunity to try new things and to educate cus- tomers.” The afternoon ses- sions were so popular, the restaurant has already announced plans to continue Untraditional & them this vear. And they fit in with the profile of what Mendoza calls “The new breed of chef.” “The role has grown into more of a hosting chef. You actually get to know your cus- tomers. It’s really evolved from the days when the chef was screaming and yelling in the kitchen and never came out.” He admits to some mocdi- ness — “I take my work per- sonally” — but doesn’t consid- er himself temperamental. Unlike most in his position, he doesn’t let his kitchen brigade of 20 (28 in the summer) call him “Chef,” bur rather by his first name. “You have to treat your staff well. If you’re going to put yourself on a pedestal so igh that you can’t get feed- back, that’s when you stop wing.” For information about “Sonny’s Afternocn Delights,” an n upcoming “Spring Taste of ‘ood and Wine” series, and oer fifth anniversary events, call The Beach House at Dundarave Pier, 922-1414. Traditional British Cooking & Entertainment Upcoming Events St. Patrick’s Day - Celebrate with us! Saturday March |3*& Wednesday March 17* entertainment by Friday & Saturday Evenings - Brian Flanagan Last Sunday - Every month Red Knickers - traditional jazz — ata ROAST BEEF DINNER with Yorkshire pudding, potatoes, vegetabies and gravy For more © information call 963-3463 Res, Recommended sD ay. Sunday, February 28, 1999 - North Shore News - 33 Certificate when two or more dinner entrees are purchased. 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