From page 32

he joined in Italy last May
for a week of golf and
gastronomy at Menghi’s
Villa Delia Tuscany, a
combination restaurant,
hotel and cooking
school.

Bur there is more
work than idle jet-setting
pleasure in the job of own-
ing a-restaurant, especially’
if you want ro own it
for more than six
months.

-- Restaurants are casy to
start and casy to lose.
Hanging on ts the wick.

- - ° Faedo’s industrious
style has kept La Cucina

buoyant for the better

‘part of two decades in

a location that is nor
ideal.

“Marine Drive provides
much drive-by traffic, but it
Comes at a price.

The noise at certain times
of the night, particularly if
‘you are seated in La
_, Cucina’s picturesque out-
- door patio, can be more

= than distractive.

. Still, the dining
experience within the
high butter-yellow walls
‘and cantina vines is more
ana match for the roar
- sof the mercantile traffic
“Without. *
+ -. It is not overly ornate.
“A reflection, perhaps,

f: Faedo’s personality,
hich is. reserved and less
effusive than many restaura-

téurs:-
nsiead it-has a serene
style and keen attention to

. Cucina” 's wine cellar,
‘or. cxample, is. far deeper
and more diverse than the
ars of most restaurants its

os The restaurant’ 's regular
list. ($22 10 $46) is bolstered
By a speciality selection chat
boasts pages of excellent
Bordeatix (1983 Chateau
Haut-Brion), Burgundy,
-: } Barolo, Amarone,. .
Barbaresco. . *

Once a

north shore news

& DINING
Menu maintains Tuscan focus

Chef Greg Shier’s menu,
meanwhile, is a big single
sheer affair that offers
assorted pasta (SI] to §12
for nine selections; nothing
too ambitious: a peppery
Penne Arrabbiata, Lasagna,

“Faedo’s
industrious style
has kept La
Cucina buoyant
for ... two
decades in a
location that is
not ideal.”
assorted cream sauce and

tomato-sauce- based
options) and various main
Piatti Forti entrees ($16 to
$20).

Red meat predominates

in the latrer category: veal,
rack of lamb, a mixed grill

"of lamb chops, beef tender-

loin and mildly outspoken
Italian sausage.

But there are also entic-
ing seafood options (flam-
beed prawns) and dishes fea-
turing rabbit, chicken breast
and duck.

Shier’s delivery is heavily
influenced by the rich gas-
tronomy of Italy’s Tuscany
region.

Sampled entrees came
with white Tusean beans in
a delicate tomato saute and
thinly sliced scalloped pota-
toes.

Other vegetable accom-
paniment was kept to a sim-
ple serving of steamed green
and yellow string beans and
whole baby carrots.

The grilled veal chop was
a substantial cut of beef
attached to a large protrud-
ing curved rib.

It was grilled to a
precise medium rare and
finished with a somewhat
reserved strawberry brandy
sauce.

A good meal, simplicity
prevailing over invention.

Enjoy 20% OFF the following wrape:

Garden Fresh Grill

& Marinated and griled fresh zucchini, spanish onion, red & green
dhele wdcur tery Wop fae teint soenton oe

cheese snd our zesty We
together with a fresh

@ Flame grilled chicken atop i

Zore ime shnctle sauce, held
wheat tertila

Bombay Chicken Curry

ine rice, covered with a spicy

curried vegetable mixture (cauliflower, carrots onion,
potatoes and green pepper) Lopped with our special coot

raita yoguet sauce wrapped in flour tortile

‘The Mexicali

@ Flamed grilled chicken, zesty spanish rice, black beans, jack © :
cheese, claesic salsa fresca, topped with non-fat sour

cream: wrapped in a flour tortilla

1829 Lonsdale Ave. 984-1838

year

“Mother Nature sends us
fresh juices and skins.

Reserve yours now.

-- MeWines will receive fresh grape juices and skins from
California, Italy and the Sonoma Valley in late September.
However, you must order in advance.
As experienced winemakers know, even the most
premium kits cannot produce a wine with as much
body, flavour and complexity as fresh grape juices.

Make your wine on premises or take it home.

‘Availability is very limited, so drop by McWines
and reserve now. Deadline for orders is Sept. 20th.

McWines

“THE WINEMAKER”
1470 Pemberton Ave., North Van 987-4464
Mon to Fri: 9-9, Sat & Sun: 9-5:30
Lots of easy parking.

The sampled Mahi
Mahi was finished in an
argula oil sauce that was not
quite up to the task of mak-
ing that white fish memo-
rable.

The food from Greg
Shier is not as flamboyant as
thar produced by such con-
temporaries as La Toque
Blanche, Carmelo’s or
Salute!, but it has an
honest and hearty Tuscan
character that makes 2
visit to La Cucina worth
the trip.

Service on a recent warm
Friday evening was several
degrees below room temper-
ature.

Efficient, ves, but
overly formal and far from
warm.

La Cucina. fast approach-
ing its 20th anniversary

milestone, shows no signs of

slowing down, no signs of
weariness.

Tc remains one of the
North Shore’s better Italian
restaurants.

Mother would agree.

oe ee ee ef Oe lh

Wednesday, Sepiember 2, 1998 — North Shore News — 33

| BUFFET 89%

1 Sun. & Mon. 5-8 P.M.
I
TUES.-THURS. off
DINNER 50 oF os one
[Src Scere aca on” tame Aen
I

Flavour
of
India

Ey een

=
Lo 175 E, 3rd St., N.Van, _ 985-5477 Open 7 Days. a Week until 100.m.

Special This Week

Rosemary Reast Lamb $11.95
Honey Mustard Chicken Kebab $11.95
Crab Cutlet, Cajun Salsa = $11.95
West Coast Seafood Medley | $12.95.
Roast Prine ib Thus, day and Saturday evenings .

aE ——
- AT THE STATION? -

day: Thissday tlam- I pm
Not Mer) wa any other offer. or special, Dine’
Must present coupon, expires September

vee CATCH "EM. FROM. 10AM-2PM
GBi Mor

HAPPY _
CUSTOMER.
“Since I discovered
- Kansai, I have found it to be:

; : the #1 Sushi Restaurant in |
_ all the lower mainland"

John Fair, North Van

EXCELLENT
LUNCH SPECIALS

Prepared by Japanese Chef

a

soup served with -
small Chiras served |
with ‘appetizer, | :
rice and soup.”
* Good Portions |
© Exceilent Quality”
BE TECTAURA 986-0063
RESTAURANT 1315 Lonsdale Ave.

Summer Hours: Dinner: Tues.-Thurs, 5:00-9:30pm
ae ae FrifSat/Sun: oa Gore and Lunch: Tues.-Sun, 11:30-2:00

Re er ee eee heh a ee