it.CY PAPPANO has designed a
separates collection as a sartorial
jigsaw in which the pieces fit
together with a seamless sense of
perfection,

From the no-nonsense width of
the newer-look pant to the short,
sassier sense of skirt, to princess-
seamed tunics and jackets, fall '87
is atime of adding and subtracting
as the mood demands,

Starting from the outer shells of
balmacaans and car coats to the
fresh look-alive look of shorter
skirts teamed with long cardigan
jackets, belted military jackets,
there’s a look that’s more-ish:
more style, more options, more
class.

PARING DOWN

What the new sense of style” is
about: a paring down of silhouette
as in jackets that are long and
shaped to the waist and then
rounded through the hips with it
stvle that augurs a new sense of
tailor conscigusness.

Where there is detail, it is detail
with a point of view: a seam here,
a vent there, pockets that are flap-
ped, velvet as a trim, black asa
detail.

And, most importintly, textures
that mix together in vital mew and
dynamic ways fike heringbone.
fleck, and jacquard:  brougdit
together in srbthe yer dashin
ways.

Uaeluitered, clean, these are the
point-by-points of fall "87.

There’s a new key emphasis,
too, this season: a ‘‘class con-
sciousness’? as dressing is redefined
in terms of the overall quality of
its look.

How this is established: in a pal-
eue as hushed and rich as an Old

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Master; ing the sense that. clothes
this season should be style-right
and flawless in fabrication and
construction,

This season, too, heralds a new
look at fabrication witnessed now
in the return of double-knit — seen
this season in a brace of separates
that conjure up what double-knit
does best: effortless shape, case. a
sense of sport.

WIDER TROUSERS

Prime pieces: the wider trouser
— teamed this season with perfect-
ly easy tunic tops. an) oversized
cardigan,

Knit ina different mood: merino
knit. Rendered in a range of calra
and refined knits that evoke the
studied and deisurely
twinsets and pears.

And then there is print,

Used this season ina way that
purveys a sense of romance,

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look of

gentler days, softer forms (such as
gently-pleated skirts, soft’ unforim-
ed blouses).

The print used to effect such a
look: one reminiscent of the floral
organic prints and rich colorations
of the turn-of-the-century desizn-
er, William Morris.

17 Sunday,

Other signals to modern dress:
ing: the sense of “anilitary’’. These
looks are nol overt, however:
epaulettes mey be bold and
soutache may be in evidence but
they ure used sparingly and then
softened with such suitably
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and belts.
In summary: fall ‘87 is a season
where critical elements count.

You are one of us; a
member of our Bri-
gade, learning new
skills, meeting new
people, being impor-
tant to your com-
munity, helping us
help others. lf you
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