Exploring the treasures of south

Hiavid
Wishart

travel

talk
THE plan had t been
very simple, to arrive
by the QE2 free of jet-
lag after a Icisurely five-
day cruise, rent a car
and explore some of the
treasures of the south
of England.

London, the plan went,
would hot come into it, Paris
did instead, briefly, and it was
all to see a garden. An unex:
pected bonus of the QE2 was
its superb library with every
guide book imaginable ta

help one cope with the idio-
syncrasies of British opening

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Aw

hours, and we're not talking
abou pubs,

Unlike Disneyland, the
great montments of the land
such as Chartwell and
Sissinghurst Casde don’t run
seven days a week, requiring
the visitor to plan a route
with care. Sissinuhurst in
Kent, made famous by Vitt
Sackville West and Harold
Nicholson, is dehighttid, tasci
HAtiON and MMensely popu
Jar, Batt does not open naa
Popa. and closes every
Monday.

Huge lines form around
noon, however by 4:30 pom,
you can walk in easily and
have two hours’ enjoyment. 1
chinbed the winding staircase
of the medieval rower to
Vita’s study and looked down
on the orderly, immaculate
gardens, lightened a lite by
roses around apple trees.

Chartwell, Churchill's
home, is pot far away but
closed Monday and F "riday.
The study is the heart of the
house, the room where
Churchill worked for almost
40 years and mostly on his
feet, pacing backwards and
forwards as he dictated toa
secretary,

The family is there in pic-
tures, along with his father’s
desk, and the green treasury
tags and punch for corre-
spondence; seems Winny
hated paper clips.

Nearby Westerham also
has the home of General
Wolfe who died at Quebec,
and a short drive south takes
one to the village of Burwash
and Bateman’s, the home of
Rudyard Kipling (closed
Thursdays and Fridays).

ern England

oc cnet ate

Another short drive and
youre at Battle, scene of
1066 and all thar, and time
to reflect that although gas
nay be expensive, you don't
need alot of it, Save your
money for a stay at

Netherfield Mace near Battle,

a truly splendid country
house hotel (represented by
Abercrombie & Kent) with
elegant rooms and a superb
dining room.

Otherwise pick up a copy
of CAMRA’s snew Room At

or more information, call John or

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The Inn, a guide to goad bed
& breakfast at real ale pubs,
But do book ahead as every
one Turied was fully booked.

Then on to Beachy Head
east of Bastbourne wath its
spectacular chaik cliff Just as
amazingly there are no barri-
ers to stop people plunging
over the edge; it must be a
local method of population
control.

Nearby (that word again)
are several places where the

Bloomsburies lived and loved,

such as Charleston Farm
(shut when we went by) and
Berwick Church, where
Duncan Grant and Vanessa

- Bell painted the murals.

Don't miss the Cricketers’

NETHERFIELD Place Is a quintes-
sential English Country Inn. The
beautiful country house hotel is
located near Battle and ts represent-
ed by Abercrombie & Kent.

Arms, a tiny pub with a lovely
garden. We sat under a wil-
low tree, had a pint of real
ale, freshly- made sandwiches
and enjoyed the best of
England. Sissinghurst Castle
Garden, we agreed, had been
the highlight.

Kut was it without com-
pare? Not at all, what about
Claude Monet's garden at
Giverny? Thanks to the won-
der of Eurostar it is possible
to zip from Ashtord in Kent
(saving a journey into
London) under the English
Channel to Paris in less than
three hours, after which ir is
but a short outing to Giverny,
Naturally the seasons have
their say on what you will see.

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Photo David Wishart

[ enjoyed the contrast with
Sissinghurst, as well groomed
as a maiden aunt, while
Giverny is as gay as a young
girl with flowers of every hue
splashed around the g garden,

the only concession to order
being in groupings of colour
like a painter's palette.

Finally, be warned that
Monet’s home and garden
are closed Mondays. The gar-
dens are open 10 a.m. to 6
p.m., the | house shuts from’
noon to 2 p.m. and the
whole shooting match goes
into hibernation November 1
to March 31.

Double-check before you
leave home (or in the QE2
library).

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