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28 ~— Wednesday, June 26, 1991 - North Shore News

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A memorab

le feast

The Mexican food experience at Cafe Norte is hard to beat

Cafe Norte, 3108 Edgemont Boulevard, North Vancouver, 255-
1188. Visa and Mastercard accepted. Wheelchair accessible. Open
every day for dinner. Open every day for lunch except Sunday.

HEN GOING Norte young man, | would suggest
first checking into El Patio for a quick refresher.

The seven-table

retreat is now affixed to the rear of
Cafe Norte surrounded by a high
whitewashed wall and decorated
with flowers and terracotta — a
warm summer retreat from the
hustle and bustle of main street
Pueblo Edgemonte.

Of course, full enjoyment of
Norte’s El Patio requires same sun,
which, as we are all wont to
whine, is often a rare commodity
on the North Shore.

But enjoyment of the rest of Cafe
Nore requires only an apprecia-
tion of Mexican/Southwestern-
American cuisine served amid
warm Latin American decor.

Norte is Edgemont's own slice of
Mexican/Spanish exuberance, in-
heriting the location and the
Spanish flavors from &/ Meson in
1988.

El Meson set the Spanish stage
for Cafe Norte, providing a more
formal introduction to the spirited
elegance of Spanish-based cuisine.

Timothy Renshaw
TABLE HOPPING

ts passing was mourned by
many local restaurant fans. But
Norte has virtually erased E/
Meson memories, filling local airs
with similar aromas of garlic, chili
peppers, cayenne and mole.

The restaurant remains a popu-
jar local dining spot and a popular
draw for Mexican food fans all
over the North Shore.

Its warmth of atmosphere comes
as much from the Norte’s bold

southwestern decor, with its
richness of turquoise, terracotta
and purple, as from the restau-
rant’s central fireplace (an &/
Meson holdover).

Norte’s menu has been updated
since previous Table Hopping
visits, and prices have increased,
but the breadth of choice remains
wide and impressive: from Ap-
petitos, Ensaladas and other lighter
meals to Enchiladas, Burritos and
Fajitas and on into such Southwest
sizzlers as Santa Fe Pizza ($10.50)
and Chili Relleno ($11.75).

And most of what is offered is
available in take-out format for
those who prefer their feasts to be
moveable.

Norte also features a sheet of
restaurant specials: Chipotle Beef
($12.50); Prawn Fajita ($13.50);
Mexican Bread Pudding ($4.25) for
those seeking off-menu adventure.

The restaurant’s wine menu is
limited (only six main selections,
three red, three white, $16 to
$27), but Mexicans are not known
for their viticulture and
Mexican food is not usually very
complementary to wine.

Beer, of course, is another mat-
ter entirely. Mexico produces
same af the world’s best, and

Norte stocks several good Mexican
brands ($4 per bottle). All are ex-
cellent with any main menu items.

Table Hopping, however,
sampled a bottle of Parducci Pinot
Noir ($18.75) from Norte’s wine
list. The selection provided good
full-bodied Pinot flavors and held
its own against the various spiccs
in the evening’s meal.

Aiter grazing with perhaps too
much enthusiasm upon the com-
plimentary plate of Norte Nachos
and mildly complex salsa sauce,
Table Hopping ordered a Shrimp
Taquitos ($12.25) from the restau-
rant’s special list, and an En-
chiladas Rojas ($9.75) from the
Southwest Sizzlers section.

The Taquitos were crisp-shelled
tortillas stuffed with baby shrimp
and red bell peppers. Pineapple
salsa accompanied.

The Enchiladas Rojas featured
soft flour tortillas stuffed with spicy
Mexican sausage, fried new
potatoes and melted cheddar
cheese. All was covered with a
mild red chili sauce and a dollop
of sour cream.

Both dishes were filled out with
servings of Spanish-style rice and
deep black refried beans.

i found the rice somewhat dry

and uninteresting. But Norte’s
refried beans were excellent: deep
black and laced with flavors of
molasses.

lt enjoyed the enchilada, but it
would have benefited from a more
generous portion of sausage in
larger chunks.

Both dishes, hobbled with foods
in varying shades of brown, could
have used more color to excite the
eye.

But the servings were hearty, the
service was efficient and friendly,
and the busy atmosphere of Norte
crackled with the energy of con-
versation and neighborly electrici-
ty.
For a neighborly Mexican food
experience, Norte is hard to beat.

Appetizing:

*Warm southwestern decor and
atmosphere

*Interesting menu

*Summer patio

*Festive atmosphere

Unappetizing:

*Food sometimes delivered scor-
ched

*Drab entree color combinations

R D

ER IE

PARK ROYAL SOUTH
VANCOUVER: 2903 GRANVILLE ST.

SOUTH MAL

Dinner, Lunc

(at 13th Ave.)

2
Locatons
to serve

you.

Tel: 925-9966
Tel: 732-7311

and Weekend Brunch

1352 Marine Dr.

925-4945 West Vancouver

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