18 - Sunday, August 25, 1991 - North Shore News A MAN with style always looks completely at home in his clothes. And, conse- quently, the clothes become a part of the man who is wearing them. In business, he knows that this dressing confidence can make or break him. And _ therefore he chooses each item for its own worth. Carol Crenna FASHION STATEMENTS When putting his business look together, the four elements — jacket, shirt, trousers and ac- cessories (tie, belt and shoes) are coordinated for acceptability, ver- satility and personal style. What does a man with style need to “‘suit’’ his business image? The three faces of modern business wear combine English- bred sophistication in fabric and detail, European daring in silhou- ette and cut, and American tradi- tion in unadorned and _ relaxed comfort. The best business suits for fall 1991 are roomy, but not baggy, with large shoulders that are not as exaggerated as in previous seasons, and with detail that does not have to shout to be heard, The 1940s inspires men’s fash- ion for fall, re-introducing highly distinctive suits with fit and flair. They are reminiscent of those men who had profound influence on men’s wear in the years during and immediately following World War Il. Movie stars such as Cary Grant and Fred Astaire preferred boxy jackets with loose, cuffed trousers, which were deftly co- ordinated with gregarious shirts and bold ties matching their socks. Douglas Fairbanks Jr. chose a six tutton, double- breasted jacket with subtle win- dowpane checks as a trademark. Edward G. Robinson and Spencer Tracy became famous for their three button single-breasted sport coats with a smaller lapel. Comfort is the key word for fall 1991. The season's sartorial suits continue to blur the lines between city and sports wear. Sober styles with immaculate tailoring prevail, showing less padding in jackets. The three button, single-breasted style makes a statement in many European collections. Pants are becoming slightly narrower, echo- ing a trend that started in the late 1950's, sometimes with only one pleat. The three button, single- breasted suit, which resembles a sport coat more than the two but- ton style, is revived with a wealth of variations. Double-breasted styles in six button or four button FASHION All business What does a man with style need to suit his image? sty SE designs also fit the bill for an elo- quent ’40s versus ’90s look. The Italian silhouette of a wider shoulder narrowing dramatically to the hem has been redefined with a more subtle shape that is less extended and more natural. But it still adds width to the form, giving an easier drape to the jacket. Ventless styles predominate. In- fluenced by the interest in athletic bodies, these styles give a more classic V-shape to a trim physique but can only be worn by those who don’t need extra give at the back. Much attention has been given to the tie this fall, as designs revive the idiosyncratic displays of taste which were shown by actors in the earlier eras. It was stated in a Sears Roebuck catalogue in 1900 that “an untied man is an untidy man,"’ and the philosophy still prevails in most offices. A tie has become linked to gestures of manhood. It is said to connect two areas of the male anatomy, from the head to the nether regions, and the psychosexual im- plications have been explored in books. The tie works simultaneously as a mandatory uniform and a per- sonal gesture of adornment. It has temained a symbol of conformity for over one and a half centuries, and on occasion, also of carefully calculated rebellion. The tie is constricting, attracts food, and dozsn’t go with except for businesswear, but as a display of personality and flair, what else has a corporate man got? Suit fabrics next season include a variety of wools and wool blended with alpaca, cashmere, mohair and silk. Colors continue to make a statement with teal and other blue shades; rusts and fall browns and mustard are popular choices. Winter neutrals such as eggshell, rope and almond are more refined options. Mustard, red, green, electric blue and pur- ple are colorful accessorizing shades in some designer collec- tions, which are a preview of next spring’s colors. Though suits are often purchas- ed like cars, the price tag thought to denote a man’s career position and social class, he does not have to go in debt for a fine quality label. At William Stack Men's Wear Lid., 1467 Bellevue Ave. in West Vancouver, top quality tailored suits by British and Canadian de- signer labels are featured. Aquascutum, a label famous for its outerwear, is now designing business suits with traditional British tailoring, fabrics and details. Light weight wool suit jackets and sport jackets in tweeds and solid weaves are shown in single-breasted styling with distinctive pocket detail. Cambridge suits, one of the finest quality labels manufactured in Canada, are showing both double and single-breasted styles for fall. The tooser, easy fitting jackets have extended shoulders in six button, double-breasted styles and two button, single-breasted cuts. Jeff Stack of William Stack Men’s Wear states that, though he can verify that three button, single-breasted syles are very pop- ular in Eastern Canada, they have not yet been accepted by most businessmen in B.C., and therefore will not be stocked in the store until spring 1992 at the earliest. He adds that browns and olive green are the top selling colors currently, though a few seasons ago they were rarely chosen. Some herringbone and tweeds continue for fall, but finer wool weaves are most popular in suiting. Sports jackets are more fashion forward, carried in black and white hound- stooth checks. Stack says that the most popular sports jacket is in blue with a slight pattern or tex- ture, in a single-breasted style. The store sells many jackets as coordinates with a single vent, though many of the suits are ventless. To finis your business look, add a great looking shirt. Styles which can be worn as a subtle Crenna’s quick snips DOC MARTEN shoe store open... Aritzia Fashion Stores, a Vancouver-based clothing firm, opened Aritzia Dr. Marten, a stored devoted ex- clusively to the British-made shoe fine on Aug. J. Located at 1208 Robson St., the store will carry 70 different styles, ship- ped directly from the factory in Britain. Aritzia clothing stores, which sell Doc Martens as an acces- sory line, have been successful- ly selling the shoe label since the firm began. Co-owner Brian Hill says that the expan- sion was made _ because there are only five firms in Canada Doc Marten distributes its popular product to, and Aritzia is now able to carry one of the largest selections. This includes being the first in Canada to sell the women’s shoe line, recently developed with a women’s last shoe shape. Though the orthopaedic shoes are often worn by women, the smaller sizes sold to women are actually made on a man’s last. Aritzia Fashion Stores will continue to carry the shoes. And the firm is researching the market to expand its Doc Marten shoe store locations. They retail from $92 to $125. base to a suit, but can also go solo as an evening statement, are popular next season. Rumors Distinctive Sportswear, located in the Lonsdale Quay market, carries shirts by Lipson Studio Line, which are made in Canada and the Far East. They include intricate patterns made in multi-fibre blends of cotton, rayon and acetate, and linen with viscose or rayon for textural in- terest. Almost all the shirts are now washable for easy care, in- cluding the new washable silk chamois styles. Shirts by Tommy Hillfigure, manufactured in Canada and Japan, feature graphic prints in very fine quality fabrics. Shirts with four or five blocks of color show a different shade covering each sleeve. Others resemble map designs, abstract collages, graphic shapes and nautical-influenced patterns. The Hillfigure label also designs classic shirts accented with a small crest under the pocket. To accessorize, Rumors carries a good selection of silk ties by de- signer Christian Dior which are manufactured in Canada using Italian fabrics. The classic styles combine sophistication and timeless style for a professional power look that appeals to younger customers, as well as an older market. tf you prefer a bolder state- ment, check the Lonsdale Quay’s Melrose Avenue for a display of Nicole Miller silk ties, designed and imported from New York.