C22 - Sunday, May 6,

1984 - North Shore News

GE food

The beginnings of brunch

Special inbetween meal

LEARLY,

the gods were signalling a need
for some words about Brunch: first,

my

friend Stella sent along a definitive article

from the prestigious ‘‘Monitor’’

one of my _ regular

food magazines
beautifully arranged tid-bits for

, all about brunch;
displayed

that rambling

meal; the Hyatt Hotel announced an Easter brunch
occasion that would include the chocolate-carving
artistry of their new pastry chef, Monsieur Ramon
Annen, as well as the company of the five-foot

chocolate rabbit.

Its origins are credited to
the Americans, says the
Christian Science Monitor,
whose informal approach to
life and food is so much more
relaxed than the European.
And it cites in salivating
detail, some of the lavish buf-
fets offered by the great
hotels of Chicago, Baltimore
and New York.

I myself lean to the theory
that it grew out of the English
Hunt Breakfast, the
sideboard loaded with game
pies and kedgeree, lashings of
kippers and kidneys, bacon
and sausage and fish rissoles,
and bowls of grapes and
strawberries from the conser-
vatory. There'd be eggs boil-
ed, poached and scrambled,
and toast, rolls, and mar-
malade and potted meat.

The hour, tor one thing,
because it was really too early
for lunch, but breakfast had
been tea and a Stirrup-cup.
and that in the drifting mists
of dawn. The foxy behavior
of their quarry determined
that angle. And the other
thing, that 1t was so jolly in-
formal, people standing
around plate in hand, or
eating off the mantel,
everybody else understanding
that they simply couldn't
bear to sit down, vet

Of course the time came,
as it does, when this sort of
indulgent clegance finally
filters down to the common

Portents are portents, after all.

people, who found they
could do the same thing
without ever having to

separate a fox from its brush.
lt was just a most pleasant,
casual condition for putting
in time with friends on a
Sunday.

the kitchen
ranger

by Eleanor
Godley

Two ways. have ut all plan
ned and prepared, and let the
guests browse init at wall, or

do your short order cook
number, flipping batches of
pancakes, making relavs of

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kipper toast, frying floured
tomato slices tO a= crusty
golden brown, or deep-frying
oysters by the each.

Fish dishes are especially
attractive for this meal, being
light but also infinite in varie-
ty. That old Kedgeree, for
one, which 1s also a fine dish
for supper, with salad or
something green. You can
multuply this into a_ large
casserole, but these propor-
uions are for two:

2 Ib. of cooked white fish
(0.2Skg)
or

the smallest flat tin of

salmon (100g)

1 cup of boiled rice (250m))
2 hard-boiled eggs
2 Tbspns. of butter or
margarine (30mL)
cayenne pepper and salt to
taste

Flake the fish, chop the
eggs and put those with the
rice into a double boiler or
small skillet along with the
fat. Heat it all together not
too quickly, and mix it gently
so that each ingredient keeps
its identity Season and taste
— you could try a dash of
Tabasco, as well, or a
squeeze or two of lemon.

Anything like that looks
nice if served in one of those
scallop-shells you buy in the
kitchenware places: they look
like the Shell sign, and are
oven-proot. You can sprinkle
the servings with buttered
crumbs and keep them warm
in a 200F (95C) oven.

There’s nothing more im-
pressive than a cold poached
salmon gracing your (table,
shingled with unpeeled slices
of cucumber, decorated with
lemon wedges and radish
roses and watercress All it
needs is a bowlful of plain

mayonnaise with it, of you
can combine the dressing
with capers and chopped

ooleaah Aw PHOW PO ary)

ul

green onion, pimiento and
green pepper and olives all
finely chopped.

To prepare a perfect whole
fish, you need a pan to ac-
commodate it, the best being
a poacher, which you can
rent, Or just a big covered
roasting pan. You make first
a poaching liquid (you'll
learn to call it ‘‘court
bouillon’’) made like this,
supposing 3-5 lbs. of fish:

2 quarts of water, cold
2 tspns. of salt ,

ole ward-
e “Spring
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Ea Refresh your wh
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’2 cup of white wine or
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1 whole bay leaf and a
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Open daily 10am-10pm
Dim Sum 10am-3pm
Dinner 5am-10pm
10% discount on dinner
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We specialize in: Birthday
Anniversary & Wedding
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For reservations call

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Don't let the water boil.
Bring it to 180F only, and
make a sling of cheesecloth
with which to lower the fish
on to a rack in the liquid.
Simmer 10 minutes for each
pound, then lift out by means
of the sling and let it cool.
Skin and decorate when it’s
quite cold.

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For information please call 988- 5887

1400 MARINE DR. N. VANCOUVER PH. 988-5887

® oh 2434 Marine Dr. W. Vancouver (Dundarave)