24 - Fridays, September to, 198% ~ North Shore News Gourmet dining ...in the Nutshe THE NUTSHELL, 4402 GALLANT AVENUE, NORTH VANCOUVER, 929-1721. VISA, AMERICAN EXPRESS AND MASTERCARD ACCEPTED, NOT REALLY ACCESSIBLE BY WHEELCHAIR, OPEN WEDNESDAY TO SUNDAY FROM 9 PLM, THE NGTSHELE'S intimate aad cnlightened dining tinish remains free of the cracks and nicks that traditionally t far- nish the initial exterior gleany of restaurants Over the fon haul. And the internal Culinary meat within continues to be well worth seeking out by anyone with a high regard tor top quality restaurant food. When | first experienced the ex- cellence of the Nutshell three years ago, Limmediately tell to my knees offering praise effusive and extensive. | did not expect to be similarly impressed the second time around, Restaurants and restaurant experiences have, with the passage of time, a way of acquir- ing proportions that far exceed re- ality. And, too, | had put a lot of heavy dining miles on tastebuds, stomach and digestive tract over that three-year interval — miles that had worn some of the tint from my initially rose-colored reviewing glasses. TIMOTHY RENSHAW table hopping So the Nutshell’s continuing ex- cellence and unique character were a welcome port in the storm of kitchen winds that occasionally blow extremely ill. Aspects of the Nutshell have changed since my last visit: it has a new menu, which waitre d' Jeffrey Gourley assures is only the latest in a continual series of menu overhauls; it has a new chef, Mat- thew Keen, who replaced Dana St. Onge, now at Capers; and it has an ever-improving view from its foot of Gallant Avenue locale. The new menu brims with a sty- lish and interesting cuisine that features a blend of old and new dishes. Such classics as Clams Algarve ($6.25, formerly Calms Algarve), Piri Piri Prawns ($7.75) and Cioppino ($18.25) remain alongside such new dishes as Quail .* nica de Bosques ($17.75), served with hazelnut and orange in light port jus; and Prawns Bayonnaise ($17.25), served in a pastry shell with saffron, lime and cointreau butter. And Keen, who has been with the restaurant for the past five months, carries the Nutshell’s haute cuisine traditions with grace and culinary inspiration. But what has not changed at the Nutsheltis its slow and measured pace, its knowledgeable and precise service courtesy of Gourley and its overall veneration of food as a highly digestible art form, Besides the regular menu, the Nutshell features a nightly table d'Hote multi course feast. Price varies with the Table d'Hote dishes served and could be too rich for some budgets so be sure toask prior to indulping. But tor the gourmet. galloping or otherwise, the creation represents a chance to explore exotic cute nary horizons. The night lable Hopping visited, the Table d’Hete included seviche, Carpuccio, a spicy Malian veal dish that is served chilled, trout in ginger and time and medallions of pork, all of which sounded scrumptious but some- what overwhelming, Instead, the Table Hopping pany See Intimate Page 25 DEEP SEA delicacies in Deep Cove...Nutshell maitre d’ Jeffrey Gourley NEWS phate Tom Burley presents some of the fine cuisine produced at the Deep Cove restaurant. P > DSHAWA® OTTAWA « MONTEL AL ade 7 ahs, Ws 10g errs {04S Gare SRioce 7275 TERMINAL ae BRAMPTON». FOR Phone: 683-63: TIAWA eo MANTAF AL NOW B2 STORES Coe T TOo- COAS WINNIPEG » LONDON, 8: ONTO OSHAWA ¢ OTTAWS MPTON,® TORONTO'S OSH Phe BRAM HAMILT ‘Pa MICHEME EAL ® Var eog SER Wilde Madar ata T! BRAND NAME PRODUCTS AT CANADA'S GUARANTEED ee PRICES: + PORTABLE REMOTE __DOLOR TELEVISION PROGREMKANG 04? CHANNEL CABLE AE ADY QUART? THNING +3 YEAR WARRANTY auoiotare TAS OF ID ZI] CHANEL Oustiae © BASF | ntussr stots T KAICROWAVE OVEN SU5MIN THEA Wt AUTO SHUT OFF BO WATTS MICROWAVE TELEPHONE "200 Birt AUTCOIAL ACD DIALING DISPLAY TOSHIBA TOUCH CONTROL TOSHIBA TOUCH CONTROL 1.0 cy. FT. MICROWAVE } SLOWER LEVELS JET DEFHOST $100 MINUTE DIGITAL THE LOLK ov PORTABLE CELLULAR TELEPHONE eCARRY ANYWHERE! MANDSFAEE OPERATION $32.90 FUR agi LTAIE OR FULL FEATURE tf O rere MINDER ACTIVATED ANSWERING MACHINE CALL My, “BATIEAY BACK UP vensouy ; VHS HG al TOSHIBA REMOTE YER HONIGH OUALT ALE ALADY TUNER 7-DAY @ PANTS TOUCH RECORD Baty te Doone iniPeg OND Ot BUY CA LEASE PERSONAL COMPUTER [ulaty sia oc cOMPATIALE EGTA: Baa 4 ALENGER Sdduanben 1 ors OTS IGA reg L Tenney CMON ANSWERING MACHINE *VOICE ACHIVATEO 8 SCALL-SCREENIHG RaMPron. FORONTH: NTA taneous OR ; ieouve 40-WATT POWER AUDIOVOX s0-WarT POWER KENWOOD HIGH A reweR US UGHT Sim LINE CESIGN »™ a SRA VAemd ii tofDhaya AMES CASSETTE OTTA veaton ag STEREO _ -D1G'TA) or Ee ag AWA » AUTOMATIC St0P [ih HON ¢ Seay aS E DIGITAL E VERSE AUDIOSYSTEM WAIL ET Ly “TuGITAL AMAAUTUNEG with 7 MEMORY Hy PaCS Gay 13 ooateuTHt anaes Tat BAT CONTADL Halas ci ocK Seon COMPACT: ACOUSTIC HOOSHEL [0 a SPEAKER SYSTEM E H SPEAKERS FPS Airiscancn ‘SPeaken WD Ob} WAY oT SuvItO page's if Payeae Sete BONA, JANCO! CHEN is) TheHNOLGus Duet Om 1S po-MomtH’ fara 0 atte A KAI 80 WATT & PRIS. 4G emg TALK iiitd REMOTE CONTROL STEREO Paocaawwnc, BAO QUARTZ CGITar TONER +5 RAND S . Onty 20 o0°MONT HY EG ROUALZEA CONTINUE Peas BOUELE ty CASSETTE W.00U89 NA Ml ory i sSEMI AUTOMATIC f RKE NWOOD, MULTIPLE CO ft TUANTARLE EMOTE WAND tiNIT PLAYER wntmore Fs Fd) TRAC a RANSOM $0 MEMORY oy Regt "BRAM! anit 25 00 MO + EDMO eee |, DELUXE AUDIOSYSTEM 100W AACK AUDIO SYSTEM tony Pag PASE T O:GitAL tas é ‘ Ais eae, nu, ° USHAWR *UTIAWA® MURIAEAL VANLUUYL EY ® UMUN IU LALuan HeNTw. NEURAS ATH AWA» Mou ORME Sarena’, Eeyanur VANCOUVER ® TIMONTON: s. CHOARY J WIMNIPES mLOaTCne NITCHENER ‘¢ HAMILTON ¢ BRAMPTON ¢. TORONTO sashane © OTTAWA © MONT Te * APA