now what to do before

fi

SOW IT GROWS

IN MY last column I talked
about some of the principles
of pruning. Now it’s time to
cover some of the practical
aspecis of how to do the job
successfully.

Before you start pruning make
sure you have the proper tools.

For mosf small gardens a good
pair of hand pruners or secateurs
and a sharp, well-set pruning saw
are probably all you need.

Long-handled loppers are fine if

~ you have a lot of heavy-duty work
but they are not essential. Loppers
tend to bruise the larger branches in
the cutting process.

A telescopic pole pruner can be
useful but a pair of hand pruners °
and a ladder will do a far more pre-
cise job. a

‘The best type of secateurs to use
are the ones ihat have a very sharp
blade overlapping a base biade,
similar to scissors. The anvil-type
shears, where the sharp blade press-
es against a flat surface, will crush
or bruise the wood during cutting.

A ‘good pair of secateurs should

*-Tast you several decades and are
well worth spending the extra
. Money. .

Pruning saws are best if they
have a folding blade. Unlike a stan-
dard handsaw, the (ceth on a prun-
ing saw point in the opposite direc-
tion and therefore cut on the back
stroke, -

DIRECT FUTURE
PLANT GROWTH

When pruning deciduous plants
it is essential you know where the
dormant buds are. It is best to look
for the old leaf node scar because
there will always be a bud at (he
leaf axil.

To encourage growth pointing
away from the centre of the plant,
Jook for a dormant bud that is on
the out or underneath side of the
branch. This will allow you to
direct the future growth out or
down,

When fruit irees_ are very young
the prime purpose for pruning is to

_ develop the basic structure: Four or

five years later, the reason for prun-
ing is to enhance the flower and
fruit production.

Branches that put on one to three

feet of growth each year can be
pruned back to three or four buds.
The last bud sheuld be chosen to
direct new growth in the coming
season and the ather buds will
hopefully develop imo flower and
~ fruit buds which are called spurs.

Over the years the fruit spur puts

on more growth and may become

five or six inches Jong. Great care

must be taken not to cut or break

off these twisted fruit spurs as they
_ Will be the basis for next year’s

eo hg be 34]

prunin

NEWS photo -

WHEN PRUNING deciduous plants it is essential you know where the dormant buds are.

crop. .

Some vines such as wisteria and
grape can be pruned in the same
way us most fruit trees. Once a
framework has been developed, the
vine can be cut back to three buds.
removing 12 tu 15 feet of new
growth.

Again, the last bud will create
riew growth and the other buds wiil
produce flower buds. If the vine is
not cut back severely each year al)
the energy will go into new woody

_ growth with very little left for flow-

ers or fruit.

It may take a wisteria five or six
years to become established but
after that it can become jungle war-
fare.

When you cut a stem beyond a
dormant bud, the distance should be
about 4" to %" away from the bud,

If you cut too close the new -
growth may break away from the
stem. If you leave a long section
beyond the bud, the stub will die
and the resulting decay may move
buck to, or below, the bud.

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Cuts that are made on upright
branches should be made at a slight
angle to ensure that drainage will
occur. This is particularly true for
rases which have a large area of
pith, or soft spongy wood, in the

BOOK ehh

© starts

centre of the stem.

When cutting large branches
close to the trunk ofa tree. look for
a collar or slight enlargement as the
branch enters the tree trunk.

Whien pruning. leave the collar
to reduce the scar area. This allows
the wound (o callous-aver much
more quickly. | prefer to leave the
wound untreated as many of the
pruning paints and gums will hold
the moisture in and cause rapid
decay,

at large tee branch is to be
removed, it is best lo follow a pro-
cedure using three cuts.

The first cut is placed about two
fect from the trunk and is started on
the undemeath side of the branch.

When the saw binds. remove it
and sturt the second cut 20 inches
trom the tree on the topside of the
branch. The branch should split
between the saw cuts and fall free if
it hus not been secured.

The final 20-inch stub can now
be removed wilh adhird cut with no
tisk of sptitting the branch down
into the tree trunk. Pre-tic or sup-
port heavy branches as a safety
measure before any cuts are made.

There are some excelient ilus-
trated books on pruning available.
Look for Practical Pruning, by lan
Murray, Crowood Press. 1992; All
About Growing Fruits and Berries,
Ortho Books. 1976; and Fruit by ©
Harry Baker, The Simon Schuster
Step By Step Encyclopedia, 1980.

FINANCING

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