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Layne Christensen

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vet cuts a styli

Sew right
_ By Kian Samet

WITH THE holiday season fast approaching, vel-
vet isa popular choice for elegant occasions as
~ well as for rich, warm casual looks.

Choices include cotton velvets, which are easy to work
with and suitable for daytime wear, and luxurious fabrics
of silk, rayon or acetate, notable for their deep pile and
” rich colors but also more difficult to handle.

“Keep in mind that the success of any sewing project
*. depends on the techniques you use and the precision with
which you apply them.

»-” These tips will help you to make your velvet garment
one that you are proud
‘to wear.

_ ©. .Choose a pattern
“with simple, “classic
fines. Suitable styles to .
consider include semi-
fitted. dresses, « boxy
jackets or simple skirts.

@ Before cutting vel-

vet, make sure that the |

» pattern’ is a good fit. ...

J...) recommend trying

the’ pattern ‘on muslin.

‘first, as it’s not possible

to un-pick, ‘and sew

gain with velvet because the needle marks will remain

visible. .: é
‘© When cutting the pattern, pieces, their layout. needs to

- follow the nap of the fabric, Make sure that you are cut- -

ing with the nap by: running your hand lightly over the

surface of the fabric. The pile should feel soft and smooth. |

* Drawing an arrow in chalk on the back of the fabric to

indicate the direction of the nap will prevent’ mistakes j in’

arranging and routing the pattem pieces a

,

66 The success of any sewing
project depends on the techniques
“you use and the precision with which

- you apply them. 99 .

@ Transfer the pattern outlines to the wrong side of »
the velvet with chalk. To indicate the placement of
pockets, buttonholes or folds for pleats, use a fine:
needle and thread to mark the fabric with “tailor’s
tacks.”
These days, most sewing machines are equipped
with special feet for sewing velvet, as it tends to
slip when stitching. Use straight pins placed in the
seam allowance to prevent slippage, and always
sew in the direction of the pile.
® Several options are available for seam finishing:
pinking, overcasting by hand, bias binding, fold-
over lace binding, zig-zag stitching or serging.
Remember to leave a good seam allowance, and
don't trim the fabric close to the seam as it may
unravel. / ‘
© If your pattern
_includes . darts
_ you will need to
+ baste first, and
work «carefully.
For simple darts, :
stitch from the.
top to the point
of the. dart.
Flatten by slash-
ing toward ‘the
‘point to. within
one inch’ (2.5
cm) and then fin-
ger pressing.

ms For double-pointed darts, such as those above °

and ‘below the’ waistline, sew from the centre to
each point. To open and flatten the dart,. start by
clipping it in the centre close to the stitching line.
Slash the dart from the centre toward each point, to

‘within one inch or 2.5 centimetres. .
-@ & sewn-in (non- fusible) interfacing i is the best

See Velvet page a1

: Dinne&Lesley |

FASHIONS & ACCESSORIES .

T* the stress out .of
your holiday shopping.
Choose from .a- wonderful,
‘selection of unique fashions in -
a a relaxed almosphere 7

would like to: o:take this opportunity to. thank
our many customers: ‘for their. support.
We: look forward to another ‘wonderful’ “year in this,
unique, location. oe
ane&Lesley
_ FASHIONS & ACCESSORIES.
as on Wall Street

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