26 - Wecnescay. July 24, 1997 -

a bistro

Appetizing:

*Bright menu

*Gcod bistro food
*Hot summer location
Unappetizing:

*No reservations
*Limited wine scieciion

The Establishment Restaurant,
4355 Gallant Ave., North Van-
couver, 929-4677. Visa and
Mastercard accepted. Open
every day for lunch and dinner.
Wheelchair accessible.

HE ESTABLISH-

MENT was not a

place to which hep
cats gravitated in the distant
summers of my youth.

Boers

Timothy Renshaw
TABLE HOPPING

But things have changed: this is,
after all, the ‘90s; loasen ties chaps,
because the new Establishment is
casual and interesting.

The Deep Cove restaurant
opened three months ago and oc-
cupies a key corner along the
evermore elegant Gallant Avenue
strip. It used to be Covey’s, a less
sophisticated beanery that perhaps
was better suited to the less
sophisticated Gallant Avenue of
eras past.

And back in the ’50s, the loca-
tion housed the origina!
Establishment. The mysterious res
idence bore a iarge sign
emblazened with The Establish-
ment; the sign now decorates the
new Establishment’s ceiling.

Not much is known about the
original Establishment. Restaurant
staff say it was a private residence
with no commercial pretensions;
Table Hopping staff conjecture
that it housed a fringe wing of Brit-
ish imperialism.

But history aside, the new
Establishment is a bright bistro ad-

GEORGE WALKER’S
TINY TU-TU’s for TWO”’
For 2 year olds & parents
“KINDERDANCE”

3-4 year alds

ADULT BALLET §
o For fun & fitness §
BALLET CHARACTERE

5-8 year olds (levels)

985-4071

Saturday & Weekdays
EET OPE

Horntn Shore News

UP THE Establishment...Chef Ken Forsberg presents a glass of
ale and dishes of Caesar salad and stir-fried chicken from the
kitchens of the Establishment, a new restaurant in Deep Cove.

dition to the revitalized Gallant
Avenue scene.

Its menu is reasonably priced
and uncommonly interesting.

It abounds with such off-speed
items as Hot Thai Chicken Salad
($6.75), Perogies ($4.95) and Pop-
corn, Shrimp and Chips in a basket
($5.75).

There are soups, salads and a
good selection of finger foods, in-
cluding teriyaki, ragun cajun,
piri-piri and buffalo variations of
ribs ($5.95) and chicken wings
($4.95).

Hamburgers ($4.95 and $5.25),
sandwiches ($2 to $5.25) and
croissants ($5.25 to $5.75) are also
availabie, and The Establishment's
separate Bistro menu features a
full page of selections all under $5.

The Establishment has no official
wine list, but bottles availabie are
displayed behind the restaurant's
central bar.

For wine information, | advise
going straight to the top: the res-
taurant’s obliging barkeep.

Table Hopping was directed by
said fellow to a 1988 Hunter
Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($18)
that saw Table Hopping staff
through their meal in good style.

Establishment dinner entrees run
from about $7 up to $14. The
focus here is bistro simplicity, but
it is a simplicity that boasts kitchen
craft and culinary inspiration.

A sampled Ribs Piri-Piri ($4.95)

from the appetizer section
featured a half dozen ribs beneath
a rousing red chili sauce. The dish
was garnished with sticks of celery
and carrot; a small garlic-herb dip
was provided for the vegetables. —

{t was a bracing opener, the
piri-piri hot and complex, the dip
creamy and delicious.

‘ followed the piri-piri with an
order of Prawns in Black Bean
Sauce ($7.25) accompanied with
Three Cheese Bread ($2.75).

Both were excellent.

The half dozen prawns came on
a small dish topped with a rich
and subtle black bean sauce; the
cheese bread featured two thick
slabs of bread covered witn
melted cheddar, mozzarella and
parmesan cheeses.

An evening’s special Louisiana
Creole Prawns ($10.95} was also
very good. It presenied prawns in
a vibrant red creole sauce atop a
bed of saffron rice.

Service is informal — provided
the night of Table Hopping’s visit
by a pair of waitresses new to the
service game.

But the restaurant's attentive
barkeep doubled as maitre d’ and
kept wine glasses filled and the
flow of customer seating smooth.

Fer a good taste of summer's
bracing informality in picturesque
Deep Cove sample The Establish-
ment. .

SUNDAY FARMHOUSE

G ascatcHEWs
RESTAURANT

FTTEthh

BREAKFAST
16am - 1 pm
Juice, muffins, scrambled eggs, bacon,
sausages, fresh fruit, Saskatoon
berry pancakes, oven baked beans
and pan-fried potatoes.
ALL YOU CAN EAT
$ 6”

Children under 10 $3.50

located at the “Sundown” end

of Park Royal South

922-1123

“AUNT MARY FROM
MONCTON, MEET
CALAMARI FROM

CALIFORNIA”

The Boathouse is THE place in town to bring your summer
visitors. Fresh seafood tastes from our own West Coast,
exotic others from the oceans of the world. Our life style
shows at the Boathouse. Warm, relaxed, welcoming. Come
in for the calamari - and everything else that's always part of
a Boathouse fresh adventure!

COAL HARBOUR:
566 Cardero
Reservations are
3 Welcome, 669-8851
Ss eed

woop sy Aco N°? &

PLAY IT AGAIN, SAM

JULv 171 TRROUEH ABEUST 3, 189821

PRESENTATION NSOBSE THEATRE

DOITUP
| RIGHT,

Dinner, Lunch
and Weekend Brunch

1362 Marine Dr.
925-1945 West Vancouver