DIARRA IB AS ines from | MCLAREN'S. “1993 SOUTH- EASTERN... © © AUSTRALIA CHARDONNAY $13.99 (Aus.) -. Picked this one off cold from the: iberty Wine Merchants store. in Park Koya] South. Bit steep price- ise, but chardonnay as good as it- pets: perfect balance of oak and fruit,: neither predominant, ina ovely well-rounded wine. | even | Jet it. warm in the glass, which usu- ally reveals any flaws’ or Sharp: edges: Nary a one. ‘Wonderful stuff; but Liberty has to do something bout the inventory-to-space ratio, in its stores: you~ can’t breathe in them without knocking over a case f vintage. port or Montrachet and it’s terribly . innerving if you're a career klutz like moi. : ‘WOLF. BLASS “BROWN LABEL” CLASSIC SHIRAZ 1992, $21 95 (Aus.) John Moore: WINE SPOTS: -. sipped. I'm not sure what's up here. Since Wolfie merged with Mildara Wines aad took early retirement, Australia’s most decorated wine- maker's name has graced the Mildara “President's Selection” top line of cabs and shiraz. Meanwhile, this relic of his personal colour- coded label line appears as a new product in the LDB list. ; Never mind. | bought an older “Brown Label” in Oz when it was called ‘Hermitage’ and it was one of the richest and most fabulous wines 1 ve ever When my Bro-in-law popped the cork on this one it was old home week: huge without being jammy, deeper than Zen, more complex than quantum |, physics; | achieved full orbit on half a glass. Buy all you can, hide it from yourself. Where better to soak up the | “28 C heat with a chilled lager cessful than others. But the Belaire has’ done. the best job‘of i incorporating its salty undings of houseboats, ds; freight trains, boat - repair. shops and warehouses i in 5:dining: package.: : ‘preferred: a more. inward. approach. to, industrial harborside-: di ning,: ithe ‘Belaire has: -steadily: reed. its'élientele outivard.: a deck?To take in the! interesting industrial : “than on‘a seaside sundeck? ~ At the Belaire, you can do said soaking with a varied and. 2: reasonably priced menu (soups, - ‘salads and-appetizers. $3 to $12: entrees,'37 to.$15) that ranges :, from fajitas and ribs thrower: “ chicken, ‘Steaks, pasta and - _seafood. * ‘Its wine. ‘list ($16 to $30): includes a limited selection of ‘bottles from B.C., thé U.S:A