FASHION History reveals | cost of ‘ideal beauty’ concept IT IS difficult to determine exactly which point in time women developed their cur- rent obsession with obtain- ing ideal beauty. However, history reveals gruesome tales of women who un- faiiingly sought out methods of making themselves more “beautiful” and appealing to men — no matter what the cost. Women of {5th and 16th cen- tury Italy applied a noxious sulfur-based paste to their hair and then sat in the sun for hours on end to achieve the coveted golden locks of the time. Aside from the resulting bleached look, the painful side effects ranged from severe headaches to nosebleeds and, in some cases, even death. Up until the 18th century women used white lead as face make-up, even though the poisonous qualities of the substance were well known. The highly texic white lead was manufactured by soaking sheets of lead in vats of vinegar and then leaving them to corrode on a bed of manure. For one 18th century. courtesan, the desire for great beauty proved fatal. When the lady brushed past a candelabra, her monumental hair style — kept intact with a mass of wool and grease caught fire and. she burned to death. And, it was towards the end of the 19th century that “skinning’”’ — a brutal method of exfoliation — became fashionable. This painful. process involved having the face doused in salicylic acid and scrubbed with a sponge with an electric current running through it. An irritant was then applied to inflame the face which was then covered in surgical plasters for three weeks. _ When the plaster was peeled off _ s@ were several layers of skin; and the result was a tender red, baby- like skin — which took months to Tecover.. ; Although times have changed, women are still relentless in their. pursuit. of ‘“‘beauty” -— always ‘ searching for new products that will end their aging woes. Some cosmetic companies con- tinue to play on women’s in- securities, sperding millions of dollars.a year un developing anc launching new products that build false hopes and promise miracu- lous results. Face Painting... Where it All Began It seems that Neanderthal.man had a-different idea about the purpose of cosmetics. Pre-historic tribes painted and tattoced their bodies for a variety of reasons — from camoufiaging themselves in preparztion. for the hunt, to displaying group menubership and most importantly to denoting religious significance. Colors had a powerful religious relevance. Red, black and white were ail considered colors of the fire and believed to be symbolic of fertility and rebirth, while yellow was a symbol of peace. Stories of the ancient Japanese reveal that they used to dab dlack soot on children’s forehcads be- fore they went swimming, believ- ing that this practice would enlist the protection of the fire god and keep the children from drowning. Beauty's True Beginnings The- origins of cosmetic use as we kzow it today began in the an- cient civilizations of the Far and oo Middle East, Greece and Rome. The Greeks took a more refined, less. flamboyant approach to cosmetics than Middle Eastern cultures, The Romans, like the Greeks, preferred fragrance and_ hair adornments over heavy make-up. The Japanese used a fairly limited palette of red, black and white to color the entire face. The heavy white oshiri (lead) povder worn by Japanese women te create the illusion of ideai beauty was probably the most lethal product ever used in the history of cosmetics — as those whe wore it regularly risked in- evitable lead poisoning. Etizabethan Inflzences It was not until the Italian Renaissance that women were tru- ly indulged in the daily use of cosmetics. Largely responsible for this new approach was Queen Elizabeth 1, who was herself obsessed with preserving her youthfulness. Rouge, made from dyed white lead or red ochre powder, was applied to the cheeks, and lip pencils, -made with powdered ala- baster and paste mixed with color- ing agents, were used to stain and _ Shape the lips. Egg whites were used to polish and protect the painted-on face from fading. And some women even painted artificial veins on to the face to simulate a youthful transparency. During the {8th century, the cosmetic craze became rampant. Cosmetics had become such a disruptive element in a society of simplistic ideals that parliament was forced t pass an act stating that -all women who used cosmetics to seduce their husbands into m&trimony should be tried for witchcraft and their marriages declared null and void. - Going Back to the Basics Make-up in moderation charac- terized the 19th century. Women traded in their powered wigs for glossy ringlets and returned ¢5 the light use of cosmetics made with natural ingredients. , Women drew their recipes for complexion creams, hair dyes and lip colorants from medieval and - Elizabethan herbal concoctions. . Post War Practices With the flamboyant flappers came brightly painted lips, arched eyebrows, heavily shaded lids and lashes, and exaggerated beauty spots marking the cheeks. But it was Hollywood that was responsible for today’s somewhat unrealistic image of beauty, which was created by such silver screen stars as 1920s’ Greta Garbo, Jean Harlow in the '30s and Rita Hayworth in the *40s. During the °S0s, suntanned complexions became the vogue and led to paler pink and coral lipsticks and matching nail polishes. The '60s saw a dramatic revolu- tion in cosmetics with the come- back of the pale complexion and virtually invisible lips. The eyes became the focus of attention as women put heavy emphasis on the eye sockets using solid black lines and false lashes. Freedom of Choice After the barely-there looks of the ’70s and the made-up mode of the ’86s, many women have final- ly reached a period of lesser reliance on cosmetics and are more interested in feeling great through physical fitness. ‘Jacques Vert *Simon Chang *Mr. Jax Sele eads April Sth 92 | Lynn Vanzey Centre 55-7615 Ft DS a: Tb Apartments For Rent _ mA SMALL 1 reom/siudio cots A Garave. Suitable for 1 perso ME cable, utilities. $575/moath. . ‘ avicw aa i dorm, new carpet, $640. Large im Orapes, heat. cattle inctsded. No pay 310 €. 2nd St. 7 mA Hi 4 me busine ae resident $2 : D Sel tdem in Ds . Me quiet area. Cons e & sthicel. we respecttul of other: Ov Be plain nice to have stoi most pleased to intenvid Please call Lypntess a iS anytii " > ERE) iB water, deap ae W. 17th. AY bdrm, April Ist. ina Bsicoay, hardwood No pets. $525/month, tenant! 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