42 -Norih Shore News — Sunday, June 25, 2000 EXPLORING B.C. —- TELEGRAPH CO Teeter! n the ng Drink of big times Katherine Gibson Contributing Writer TELEGRAPH Cove appears lost in time. The tiny fishing village, nwo hundred i tres north of Campbell River, is one of the few remaining “boardwalk sites” on Vancouver Island. According to Harrowsmith Magazine, it's one of Canada’s ten most beautitul spots. A handful of clapboard houses, soorting painted coats of blue, green and barn-house red nestle together on the cliffs edge overlooking Johnstone. Strait. Some are supported by stilts — looking precarious, as if they'll topple into the water below. Many have been there since the days of the Depression, first as homes to families that built the village and worked the sawmill and salmon cannery, and now as vacation cabins for whale- watchers, divers, sport-fishers and day-trippers. . . The. Old Saltery Pub and : Killer Whole Cafe, built in 1998, offers a cool beer and great view of the dock where boats of all description bob at their tethers, sunlight dancing off their decks. With a rainfor- est backdrop and the islands of Johnstone Strait on the ‘hori- zon, Telegraph Cove is a capti- vating sight. ; Just as.compelling are the more than 200 killer whales who call Johnstone Strait home. It’s one of the best places in the world to sce these fascinating. mamnuls in their, natural habitat and adds ro the - Cove’s potential to become a major destination tourist resort — a fact not overlooked by Bud Wagner. Wagner,.« B.C. developer. with more than 50 real estate projects under his belt, is re-shaping the face and future of Telegraph Cove with an aggressive plzn to develop 2 residential community near the old town site. This gum-boot village is teetering on the brink of the big times. Wagner’s . -. $100-million roject will transform the 120 hectares (297 acres) of logged property adjacent to the old town site into a community for about 1,000 residents with commercial facilities, a nine- hale golf course, RV park and campgrounds. A 125-boat marina, commercial docking space and lodges will cater to whale-watchers and sport fish- ers..He promises a greenbelt, public..parks and seashore access, Bur at this point, ali there seems to be are plans. And fears. Wagner has been preparing his site for more than seven years. The peace-shattering boom of dynamite regularly assaults the landscape and the tranquility of Telegraph Cove. As visitor Jim Gibson. said, “When Wagner's boys are blasting, this place rocks.” Gordie Graham, who owns the village resort, and whale- watching guide Jim Borrowman, fear that Wagner’s massive development will damage the delicare marine environment that sup- ports the robust sea life that flourishes here. And they worry the fragile relationship of the Cove’s nat- ural and _ historical environ- ' ments will be shattered. Graham, who bought the village in 1988, sensitively pre- served the seventeen orginal cottages and re-cast them as Telegraph Cove Resort, a tourist retreat. The quiet laid- back community blossoms in the summer. Baskets of petu- nias, geraniums or fuchsias frame cottage doors and wick- er chairs rest on porches as stiil-wet rubber boots and fish- ing gear dry in the lave after- noon sun. The past eclipses the present. It’s as if a white- washed door might open and an old-timer wave a passer-by in for coffee and a chin-wag. Instead they harbour vacation- ers from places like Nebraska, Saskatchewan and Idaho who rent the cabins for a few sum- mery days. The big draw is the killer whales. Sightings are a sure bet between July and August. Johnstone Strait is home to Includes: * Photo Tourism B.C, THE 17 original cottages of the hamlet have been preserved by Gordie Graham as Telegraph Cove Resort. about 200 of these highly social animals (also known as orca whales or blacktish). Jim Borrowman, a passionate pho- tographer of marine life and owner of Stubbs Island Charters, a whale-watching service, speal:s proudly of near- by Robson aight where the world’s first killer whale sanc- tuary is the stage for an amaz- ing and sensuous ritual — killer whales rubbing their bel- lies on the rocky beaches. Borrowman pampers guests with home-made meals and hearty snacks during a four- hour cruise through one of the world’s best places to sce marine animals. Glimpses of Stellar sea lions, Dall’s porpois- es, harbour seals and occasion- ally the minke, humpback, and grey whales are not uncorr- mon. The waters near Telegraph Cove also attract sport fishers. and kayakers. ‘Tales of record-setting chinook buzz through the air as anglers clean the day's catch. Paddlers ready their kayaks for touring Malcolm {sland or the nearby Auckland October 3rd, 2000 12 days . Food & Wine Festival PGA Golf Pros « aicfare from Vancouver protected inlets and bays. Although Telegraph Cove swells with visitors during the summer months, the fall sea- son also has its fans. Hikers come to trek the Marble River Trail, explore the old Suguash coal mine sitc, or poke about in the Little Hudson Caves. At night when the tide is out, other folks bundle up, and with lanterns in hand, dig for fresh clams. Just like in the old days when Bobby Culverne was Telegraph Cove’s only res- ident. He serviced the tele- graph line that pushed north rom Campbell River in 1912. A salmon processing plant and sawmill followed, atrracting other folks. Before long, Bobby had two dozen ncigh- bours. As See Project page 43 KILLER. "See Them ¥ sTU life ebbed and CANADIAN FUNDS RATES ARE PER PERSON. PORT CHARGES: $69 CAD PER PERSON ADDITIONAL. Sailing round-trip from Vancouver aboard Holland America’s Veendam «on 266-0008 1-800-665-5566 WAOL/DATS Maa : VANCOUVER - KERRISDALE Book now for additional savings & bonuses! TCHING 1 «3 nights in New Orleans « 7 night cruise aboard the /aspiration ¢ all meals & entertainment aboard the /nspiration ¢ walking tour of French Quarter e dinner jazz cruise « plantation tour + all transfers « BCAA Hosted* * port charges of $216 November 30 - December 10,2000 "tee DES cm Yost Kind of Fa FROM