motional fares and packages aimed
ait luring Canadians to: both Por-~

‘sionally with. clanking, .

LISBON’ ray ‘Airlines these

- days” trade“ routes: ‘like

_ Napoleon. and . Wellington
_used to” rearrange: the
_ ‘thrones of Europe. ** *
.- © So Portugal, once the domain of _
_ CP Air, is now an Air Canada des- :
 tination, which undoubtedly means

there will bea new: flurry of pro-

° Portugal's climate is perfect in
the spring and fall, winters are fine

for .golf: and. even the summer -
crowds are more bearable than in: °
most other ‘European: countries.

When last in Lisbon my base

’ was the York House Hotel, a

former convent thoughtfully. con-
verted to include a ‘bar. The stone
building rises steeply from a cob-
bled street’ which comes alive occa-.

orange
strectcars.

- Explorers need just a map from
the concierge and a good pair of
shoes. With my sights set on St.
George’s Castie I walked through

‘Alfama, the old Moorish quarter,

until inside the ruins and on the

-Famparts,

‘This is one of travel’s great
views. — Lisbon. spread below

‘ under a carpet of red-tile roofs, the

pattern broken occasionally by a
square or a palace, and the broad’
majesty of the Tagus River dotted
with ships at anchor.

“In days gone by they could have
been Phoenicians. They called it
Alis Ubbo, meaning ‘‘delightful
little port.’”. The Romans talked of
Felicitas Julia, then Olissapona.

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Under Rome it became an impor-
tant city linked by three roads to
what is now Merida in Spain.

Later the Moors came, and for
300 years made Lisbon flourish as
never before, leaving their mark in
the architecture and in the dark,
beautiful eyes of the children.
Then, in 1147, the Crusaders threw
out the Moors and set the stage for.
the city’s finest years.

By the 15th century, it had

- $0,000 people, for the times quite a
: sizeable port. Navigators reached

‘travel
talk

David Wishart

* beyond Cape St. Vincent, once

thought to be the end of the earth,
and sailed farther still.

Gold and diamonds came from
Brazil, slaves and ivory from
Africa, and from the East spices,
silks, pearls and porcelain. The
new, the strange, the rich and ex-
otic products of. faraway places
flowed on to the city’s docks like a
tiver of gold. .

This was the age of the great
Manuel, known as Manuel the
Fortunate, whose name lives on as
in Manueline architecture, which is
the Portuguese gothic style. The
Jeronimos Monastery at Belem is
the best example, a masterpiece
begun by the king in 1502 in grati-
tude for the riches of the
Discoveries.

The 16th century turned sour
with earthquakes,’ the Inquisition,
the Black Death plague and finally
annexation by Spain.

Glory and tragedy, it seemed,
stalked the city in equal measure,

_and at night in Alfama you can

hear the fado (fate) artistes lament
for the past in songs that are both
sad and gay.

The Spanish captivity was ended

ROSEWAY TRAVEL
invite you to a GALA

Mexican Riviera,
Pacific Hawaiian
& Panama cruises
on the magnificent

by Joao of Braganca, whose house
began a line of monarchs which
endured until the country became a
republic in 1910. Joao V used the
wealth of Ultramar (the colonies)
to finance schemes. such as- the
great Aguas -aqueduct which
brought the luxury of abundant
water to the city; most of Lisbon’s
fovely street fountains can be trac-
ed to his reign:

Today, Lisbon is an old dowager
enjoying her retirement. As the old

‘man said to me at. St. George’s

castle, Portugal, like Greece,
Rome and Britain, has had her
empire and years. of triumph. The
old man and I later had 2 glass of
white port together and talked
about the war years. of intrigue
here, when nearby Estoril and its
casino was a haunt. of spies. One
regular was Dusko Popov, a Brit-
ish-German double agent and
reputed to be Ian Fleming’s model
for James Bond.

We talked also. of: Wellington,
who sailed: from Britain in’ 1809

Seo Discover
Page 34

ONE OF Lisbon’s most striking
monuments is the one dedicated to
the Discoveries. Located at Belem,
where the caravels used to set sail,
it evokes the voyages led and in-

spired by Prince Henry the Navi-

gator.

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