Grilled, barbecued marinated...great! CONCERN OVER red meat in our time seems to have grown all out of pro- portion. it is true that | have tried to cut down on animal fat during the last few years, but that does not mean I must eliminate red meat from my diet. I trim the fat carefully and 1 never buy ham- burger meat from a butcher. I buy a chuck roast, trim the fat and grind my own, Once in a while I have to have pork sparerib. I don’t do it often, but when I do | am in pig heaven. Well, heaven for me, perhaps not for the pig. Here } have listed some of my favorite .pork..dishes. Pride of Deer. Camp Barbecue Sauce may ~~ just’: ‘change your life — it’s that ' ..¢ good. Enjoy : ILLED PORK “(serves 4 to 6 as a meat course) You can use pork steaks for this dish; but: you should trim them ‘well if you are cutting-down on fat-intake. If you use pork chops, which. contain ‘less animal fat, be sure Not to overcook them or they wll be very dry. : The cumin and garlic give this dish a sort of south-of-the-border . flavor. It is a favorite of mine. 2" teaspeon ground cuntin dulce-of Lemon “Va cup olive oi] 2 tablespoons dry white wine : ‘2 cloves eric. peeled and crushed Selt~-end=:freshly ground black pepperto taste =. 26: boneless. pork steaks or. pork we chops © Combine :. everything but the 2 Bork: in’a small bow!. Stir well, ” pour.over the porkand marinate for Lhour. Turn.the pork’a few . on times ‘while marinating.” . Geil, over mediim heat, turning < once: ‘and. basting with the leftover marinade. Grill to desired . GRILLED PoRK RIBS WITH PRIDE. OF DEER CAMP . ” ~ BARBECUE SAUCE .- . (serves 4 to 5) Try this dish and see what hap- pens to your family. If you have . little ones about, don’t make the Desserts with a flourish can : inquisitive Cock ANNE | SUE GARDINER WILSON COOKS ARE often reluc- tant to. replicate fancy res- taurant desserts. THE FRUGAL GOURMET sauce too spicy. When you eat this stuff, you know you are eating! 4 pounds pork spareribs 1 cup Pride of Deer Camp Barbecue Sauce (recipe below) Marinate the ribs in whole pieces in the sauce for “% hour. Place the ribs on a broiler pan and bake at 375°F for I hour. Baste them with the sauce white baking. . Remove trom the oven and finish off on the barbecue or grill to your liking. Baste again while grilling. Serve with Pride of Deer Camp Barbecued Potatoes (recipe below). Delicious! PRIDE OF DEER CAMP BARBECUE SAUCE (makes 8 quarts) This product is hard to expdain, but if you make it, no explanation will be necessary. In the Carolinas and in the hills of Arkansas, barbecue sauces con-. © ‘tain much less tomato than those . ‘found in’ the rest of the country, cand they contain more _ vinegar and spice.- This one is from Arkansas and is the gift of a dear-friend of ours, Ms. Sarah Lea, general manager of the Lenox House Hotel in Chicago. . Don’t worry about the amount this recipe produces. You wili find lots of uses for it and you will Often.. they’re prepared with such flourish it’s intimidating. Sometimes their titles make them sound too elegant to be easy. Creme anglaise and sabayon are kin in this respect. Recently, a sabayon caught our attention. Egg yolks, sugar and Madeira whipped with a giant balloon whisk in a gleaming cop- per bowl over a small flame, then ladied into goblets. © Impressive? Yes! Delicious? Yes! Complicated? No! Sabayon is a variation of a simple soft custard. So is creme anglaise, a creamy vanilla custard sauce, wonderful over fresh berries or as the starting point of many ice- cream recipes. Here are the basics. Egg yolks and sugar are whisked together until thick and light and then liq- uid is added. In creme anglaise it’s also be able to give away a few quarts. , 1% cups dark brown sugar 12 cups Worcestershire sauce - 1% cups prepared mustard 1 quart ketchup Y% cup freshly ground black pep- per Ya cup crushed red-pepper flakes (or 2 Httle fess if you do not like a spicy hot sauce) 3 quarts red-wine vinegar 2 quaris water 3 quart white wine . 1% cups salt Place all the ingredients in a 12-quart stainless steel pot and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a slow simmer, cover and cook for 30 minutes. Store, covered, in glass canning jars in the refrigerator. NOTE: Suggested uses. include a Marinade sauce anc a barbecue sauce. Also good in Bloody Maries. . PRIDE OF DEER CAMP BARBECUED POTATOES (serves 4) Everyone loves potatoes and we always welcome new ways to make them. This one is simple if you have made a batch of milk or cream (usually heated to shorten cooking time). In the French sabayon, it’s Madeira or sweet white wine. Zabaglioni, its Italian counterpart, uses Marsala. These custards are cooked slow- ly over very low heat or in a dou- ble boiler over hot, not boiling, water. Use a minimum of two whole eggs, or four egg yolks for each two cups (500 mL) of liquid. Ex- tra egg will produce a thicker, richer custard that sets more quickly. Or for creme anglaise, an egg yolk can be omitted if you add a teaspoon (5 mL) of cornstarch for two cups (360 mL) milk to help with thickening. Soft custard i3 stirred while it cooks, to prevent it from coagulating into a gel. But the way it’s stirred defines its final texture. Sabayon is whisked to a wreanesd2y, August 19, 1992 - North 1 Shore News — NEWS phote Pau! RcGrath - wonderful Pride of Deer Camp Barbecue Sauce. 2 large baking potatoes, washed % cup Pride of Deer Camp Barbecue Sauce (recipe above) % cup grated Parmesan cheese Cut the potatoes in haif lengthwise. Cut each half into 3 long wedges. Place the potato wedges in < bow] with the sauce. Toss together to allow to marinate for 30 minutes. Toss a couple of times while marinating. Place the potatoes skin-side- down in a greased 13° x 9° glass baking disk. Bake at 375°F for about 40 minutes. Baste the potatoes with the sauce while hak- . ing. When the potatoes become barely tender, sprinkle on the grated cheese. Turn the oven to medium broil and brown the tops of ihe potatoes. SPARE RIBS WiTH BLACK BEAN SAUCE (serves 4 as part of a Chinese meal) This is a dish 1 have loved since my first visit to San Francisco, one of the great restaurant cities in America. 43 REASONABLY PRICED and tasty with sauces, pork is a great alternative to beef. This version was given to us by chef Wai Chin of the Sea Garden Seafood Restaurant in Scattle’s Chinatown. | think it is the gar- nishes that make this dish so totally delectable. 2 tablespoons fermented black beans (‘‘dow see’” found in Orien- tal markets) 1 tablespeen peanst oil i pound pork sparerihs (have the butcher sew tte ribs Into. I-inch strips and cut them into single- bone pieces) 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed Pinch of sali Pinch of sugar Pinch of MSG (optional) GARNISHES 2 teapoons dark soy sauce 3 scallions, chopped 4 sprigs fresh coriander 2 teaspoons sesame cil ! tablespoon peanut oil Rinse and drain the black beans. Combine with the ail in a small bow! and mash together into a coarse paste. Place the ribs in a bowl and combine with the bean paste, garlic, sali, sugar and optional MSG. Mix together with your "hands until ail is coated. Spread the ribs out on a porcelain platter and piace it in an active bamboo steamer. Steam the ribs for 15 to 20 minutes, then remove from the steamer. Garnish with soy sauce, scallions, cor- iander and sesame oil. — Heat the peanut oil ‘until very hot. Pour over the top of the gar- nishes. INFUSED OIL FOR GRILLING . MEAT (makes 2% cups) . ; This is a gift from Kaspar’s By ihe Bay restaurant, . one of my favorite places in Seattle. It is not gimmicky, though everyone is us- ing infused oils these days. Read the list of ingredients and you will immediately see that the oil will impart a wonderful flavor to pork or any other meats you might be grilling or’ broiling. There is no salt i in this recipe. 2 cups olive off | 14% teaspoons coarsely cracked &lack pepper . : 2 tablespoons fresh rosemary. nee- dies, removed from the stem, pounded just a bit. % cup coarsely chopped parsely 3 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl or jar and allow. to stand at room temperature for 2 — hours. Brush meat with the oil when grilling. The oif will keep for several days. be simple to make light airiness. Creme anglaise is stirred with a wooden spoon to the silkiness of heavy cream. The change from fluid to thickened sauce begins around '160°F (70°C). ‘When sufficiently cooked, custard forms a thin coating on the bowl of a metal spoon. As soon as it’s thick, the custard should be served or cooled rapidly to prevent further cook- ing. If protein becomes overcook- ed, it’s unable to trap liquid in the delicate network of a thickened. sauce. There’s no such thing as a “boiled’’ custard, Boiling actually toughens protein into curds, squeezing out liquid. Instead of custard, you have curds and whey! Acidic flavorings added to milk also increase the chance of curdl- ing. When heated quickly, there’s a very small ‘range between the temperature at which custard thickens and the temperature at which it separates. So the more slowly custard is heated, the less likely it is to curdle. When heated to thickening temperatures, the mixture is hot - enough to kill salmonella. But once cooked, take care to serve custard quickly, slightly cooled. Or chill and serve cold. When water evaporates from the surface during cooling, the protein becomes concentrated into a skin. To prevent this, place a piece of plastic wrap directly on top of the warm custard. Whether embroidered with summer berries, a partner in an elegant trifle, or whisked to a frothy sabayon, it’s still a humble custard — simply being fancy.