Janice Mucalov Contributing Writer IT was a scene from Out of Africa, except we were in B.C. As our boat bumped into a small wooden dock, we could see a collection oF white prospector-sivle tents, discreet: ly screened by salmonberry bushes, built on raised wooden platforms on the river bank. Each of the five sleeping teits had a generous porch over- looking the river, graced by wooden deck chairs and a pot of ferns. Opening our tent to deposit our bags, we discovered 4 hand-crafted queen-size bed with a down duvet and mos- quito netting, antique _acces- sories, a vase of wildflowers, Persian rugs on the floor, an oil lamp on the bedside stand and a propane heater. I even found aceramic pot tor midnight calls plus a plug for my hairdryer (powered by electricity from a small windmill nearby). {f this was wilderness camping, this born-and-bred city girl was going, to enjoy “roughing it”. We'd previously visited Clayoquot Wilderness Resort last vear and loved it. At the time, the resort — which opened in 1998 — consisted of the deluxe 16-ro0m_ inn that floats on a barge in Quait Bay in Clayoquot Sound on B.C.'s west coast. The main lodge is soll going strong, but now the resort has expanded to include 2 wilderness outpost, perched on an idyllic peninsufa at the juncture of the Bedwell River and the = Bedweil Inlet. Naturally, we were excited when we set off early this sum- mer for a long weekend at the new outpost. To get there, we took a 30-minute private boaz ride from the resort’s main lodge i in Quait Bay. The main lodge itself is reached by a high- ed, 30-minute boat ride .from ' Tofino on Vancouver “Idand aboard’ the — lodge’s ““Stcess Buster”. ; After setding in, we joined _the rest of our small group for funch. In addition to five sleep- ing tents and a lounge tent with 1940s firrniture, the outpost has a luxurious dining tent. Pumpkin quesadillas and shrimp salad were served on antique china, and we drank” generous quantities of wine from crystal goblets. Our departure’ from the table swas signalled by the buzz of an incoming float plane for our flight’ over — adjacent Strathcona - Provincial Park. This fightseeing trip must rank as one of the most spectacular in the world. Behind us, the sun sparkled on the islands, inlets and coves of Clayoquot Sound, while beneath us, the _ forest valley, nibboned by the “great Bedwell-River, gave way to. breathtaking: snow-covered mountains and giant glaciers. -~ TRAVEL = ughing it’ in the CI Sunday, July 30. 2000 —- North Shore News - 25 lidemess Photo Clayaquat Wildemess Resort IN addition to five sleeping tents and a lounge tent with 1940s furniture, the Clayequot Wilderness Resort out- post has a luxuricus dining tent. The site is a 30-minute boat ride from the main lodge in Quait Bay. My heart did an extra tlip-lop when we flew over Della Falls, one of the world’s ten highest falls. Later that afternoon, some couples untied the horses wait- ing for them at the hitching posts beside their tents and went for a canter. We chose to waik aiong the forest trail carved out alongside the river. Ebony, the resident black Jabrador, joined us, running ahead every so often and bark- ing furiously at what we loter learned were likely black bears. Black bears are frequently seen in the area — we saw fwo up a tree the next day — but Ebony and the other trail dogs are adept at scaring them away from guests. Back at the outpost in the early evening, smoke unfurled from the wood-burning cedar hot tub, beckoning: us to enter. As the sun dropped below the mountain, we soaked in the steaming water drawn from the river, wine glasses in hand, dreamily looking out at che for- est and mountains surrounding the encampment. Isabel and her two teenage daughters, another family in our party, even stepped gingerly into the bracing river, convincing me to also dip into the cold water, before all of us went running back to the warmth of the hot tub. Dinner that night won't be easily forgotten. — How acclaimed Chef Timothy May has managed to create gourmet mials in the wild, whipped up in the outdoor cedar kitchen and cooked over an open fire, is Mona Hubinette, CTC has returned home to the North Shore! For all your travel steeds Call Mona at "TRAVEL MASTERS 990-7392 205 - 221 West Esplanade North Vancouver BC rep #32355-1 quite amazing. We were sere- naded with fresh baked bread, mussels and clams in a wine broth and oysters in cilantro and lime, followed by grilled shrimp and rack of lamb and, for dessert, a scrumptious fruit tart with chocolate sauce. Candles and even classical music from a portable CD play- er lenta surreal air to the whole experience. Sated, we eventually drifted off to our tent. Kerosene lamps hung on iron stands lit the way, as did the glow: from individual camp fires crackling outside of each tent. The next morning, we awoke to the melody of dirds and the smell of campfire cof: fee. Peeking out our tent, I could see thar the shower area was free, and I padded down the wooden boardwalk wearing the fluity white robe and carry- ing the basket of Aveda bath products provided. A windmill- powered generator provides hot water for owo cedar show- rs. There are also fresh toilets. Fuelled by a breakfast of seafood omelettes and fresh- baked blueberry bread, the ten of us split up, five to ‘Tide the horses and five to try the mountain bikes. Our goal was to head up the Bedwell River Valley to an old gold mine about 12 kilometres away. This, I discovered, was more difficult than it sounds, especially for a gal like me, wi ho tides a bike mavbe once a year. After fording at least: three streams, we left the horses and bikes with one of the guides, beiore continuing on by foot across 4 suspension bridge over the river, Looking down into the deep pools of clear, emerald water, We could see numerous large sockeye salmon just wait- ing to be fished, if only we had the time. But the gold mine awaited, and after a picnic lunch by a waterfall and a one-hour hike through fields of ferns and old- growth forest, we made it. The gold mine is an adventure in itself, Shining flashlights and treading gingerly through ankle-deep water, we picked our way through a dark tunnel. Those that didn't turn back ieported they entered a large cavern with a ladder leading up to more tunnels. Outside, [ pocketed a couple of small nuggets with gold flakes (more likely “fool's gold”) for our young son at home. Leaving the next day was difficult to do. By the time we arrived back in Vancouver, my husband and I agreed that civi- lization is so much more enjoy- able when experienced in the wild. Clayoquor Wilderness Resort: rates for the outpost are $575 p.p. per night, and include return water transfer from Tofino, accommodations, all meals and activities (horse- back riding, kayaking, moun- tain biking, hiking and river fishing). A former navy landing craft can ferry guests plus hors- es, mountain bikes and kayaks to secluded beaches and remote locations. Take mosquito repellent for venturing into the forest (there are no Mosquitoes at the out- post camp itself}. The main lodge is $369 p.p. per night May to Oct., $269 p.p. Nov. to April. Call 1-888-333-5405 or a to r more information. KILLER WHALE ‘WATCHING “The Ultimate Experience” French Riviera — & Provence IMAGINE wintering on the French Riviera and Provence. Explore for days on end. Immerse yourself in the culture and customs. Revel in the glorious scenery. 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