Ae, MEA HIM ee UE

“CONSIDER “jamb -

% fhacst of the ‘red Oren
Many “people don’t. agree:

= With -me'— and I think’ this

“is because’ they. have’ sampi-*

: ed only older. lamb that has
been ..overcooked and | fur-
ther insulted ee mint-jelly

, ‘on:
: chand, is’; mild, -succulent, ’ ‘tender _
and -juicy. It can-(and should) be

“In addition to > the: more  pojilar
cuts,’ try lamb riblets, every bit ‘as:
ood . 25 ‘pork: ribs;. ground. lamb, -
hich: makes‘:"'a «tasty "burger;
shanks, which are inexpensive and
wonderful when braised; and lamb. *
‘stew, which’ may be. cooked with
n infinite. variety of spices. :

LAMB MEATBALLS,
‘PERSIAN STYLE.
x (serves 6-8)":

‘This takes a little doing, but get”

he : kids - involved; forming ihe ..
meatballs’ and . it “will be fun for...

‘tablespoons chore a ait
‘tablespoon: myers fresh mint

the | other

Freshly ‘ground black pepper to.

laste

In -a small bow! allow ‘the
bulgur to soak in the boiling water
% hour. Drain well. ;

In a large bow! combine the
meatball ingredients, including the
drained bulgur, and mix very well.

-Form...into’ |4-inch balls’ and
place on a baking sheet. (Keep
your hands damp with a_ little
water to facilitate forming the
meatbails.)

Bake 20 minutes in a preheated
375°F oven, or. until just cooked
‘through,

: THE SAUCE
“2 tablespoons olive oil ;
1 medium yellow onion, pected
_ and sliced .. i
~ 2 pints yogurt
- 4 fablespoons cornstarch
. 2 tablespoons cold water.
. Salt to taste ‘

Heat a frying pan and add the

NEWS photo Cindy Goodman

‘oil and the onion. Saute util YOUNG LAMB is mild, succutent, tender and juley. it'can (and should) be, cooked as rare as a fine
tender but ‘do not brown. In a: piece of beef. :

small saucepan heat the yogurt to
a gentle simmer, stirring regularly.
Mix the. cornstarch and water

“ yellow onien
2 large ripe tomatoes, chopped

together -until- lump-free. ‘Whisk — 2 teaspoons dried dillweed :

into the
stir: until

the cornstarch ° mixture
heated yogurt: and.
smooth and thickened. :
Add the ‘sauteed onion and salt
“to. taste tothe’ yogurt. Set the
“sauce aside and keep it warm.”
: ’ THE RICE ©...

at cups ‘Basmati rice :

“3 cups water :
v L teaspoon salt, or to taste © ‘
In.a:small pot. bring thie rice;
“water. ‘and salt to a boil. Cover .
and simmer 15 minutes.
’ GARNISH

- in the olive oil. Add the: salt and.”

_Suinac. (herb grown in ‘the’ Middle

© East; - burgundy . ‘or crust. in color
and ‘has: a wonderful fangy fla-.
* yor), to taste ,

Chopped fresh parstey’ .
“To serve, spread the rice over. a

: large platter., Top: with the meat-

Ya cup chopped parsley
dulce of 1 Jemon for garnish

‘in a
brown. the boneless lamb shoulder

‘pepper... ie
-- Add “enough stock

and simmer,” covered, until’ very
tender, about 2 hours. 2% 0

“Remove the meat from: the pot:

warm, Remove .the fat from’.the -
_ tock’ in® the ‘pan’ and add.’more

stock if necessary ‘to make a total .

of 4 cups. |
Remove the stock trom the pan
and set aside. °

Heat. the Dutch ‘oven again and

‘add % cup olive oil: Add the orzo: ;

, balls and sauce. Garnish with | the -pasta and. toss fora minute, Add ”

a sumac and shopped parsley.

LAMB WITH ORZO PASTA,
GREEK STYLE

“ Gserves, 6-8 as.a main course)

‘This isa‘ dish-1I' first tasted..i

* and just great for entertaining.
“3 pounds boneless lamb shoulder
3 tablespoons olive oil for: ps
-browning:.,

a8

Athens. It is. . exceptionally ‘pood::: Cover and simmer until the. bréth

‘Salt, and “freshly . ground black:
pepper to taste” a

‘6 Cups. fresh or. canned . chicken
- stock © : ; mo
-Ye-cup olive oil neue

<2 cups orzo pasta. 2° ‘
Wn: Cups © peeled = and chopped |

he tales of -vapor rising from

ANNE.
GARDINER

a “vats ‘of eggs: curing to. ‘‘an-
o-chent’?’

‘status in ‘his
childhood i in Canton: :: o

“ Hundred-year’ eggs | are”
commion,: though he laments the .

“/ younger generation isn’t using this
Chinese specialty. as their forefa-
thers did. ‘

But: ‘for: countless’ ‘preceding ;
generations, ‘curing was an in-,,
genious: means of preserving eBgs

.. before refrigeration.

Century. eggs: aren't really 100

years old. They’re ‘more likely to.
* be 100 days old.. 1
'~ They're coated with a clay-like :

mixture of ‘lime, ashes’ and salt.

“ ; ee e Often’ ‘they’ re buried in the earth
“SUE
WILSON.

to cure in their alkajine overcoat.
. Their’ shell takes. ,on an an-:
tique- -like, “mottled : ' appearance,

OUR GREEN grocer: relates:

tings. which, are

the chopped | yellow, ‘onion © and.
. saute until the‘onion is clears:
Stirs in “the tomatoes, dillweed

‘and parsley. ©
Return. the ” ‘meat’ to the . pot
_along ‘with: the 4’ cups of stock.

is.; absorbed and’: the . pasta:
‘tender,’ about. 30 minutes, Add the.
juice of I lemon just before’ ‘serve

Note:

_ Sauce, 2
Serve’ with the. lamb on. top of
“the Pasta.

: perhaps the feason for their name,

On close inspection, .an ‘“‘a

_cient” egg ‘feels. Surprisingly. light,

" for. its ‘size. It’s hard to resist the
temptation, to, open this intriguing .
“package.

"still: 7

_almost ;
agate.’ When held .to' the light, it ©

Inside, ’ the white has . ‘become
_ black, like a - polisixed

consists - of.. transparent | amber

beautiful, The -yolk is Spinach

: green, ..

The ‘dark exterior is “exiremely

chewy in texture, as eggs are when

. changes we note as eggs age natu- —

; they’ve been cooked ‘a long time:

“Yet the yolk: at its centre is soft,” *

“like a ripe avocado. .

: These century eggs hold - the :

secrets ‘of.an ancient alchemy.; ; .
*, Though the changes in the egg

as it cures. are dramatic, they
magnify” some. of the. subtle

stové-top * Datch oven’

. to come:
"halfway: up the ‘side of ‘the meat, .

if the: “dish -is’ too. wet.”
when the pasta ‘is tender. continuc:*’
to ‘cook ‘for.a ‘few. more minutes:
‘with « the lid off: to. reduce » the «

“shelf. .
“greater the space between the eee
white’and the shell.’:

‘strikingly
” dense : they- actually © rattle’ loosely .
"within the hardened sheil. -

‘the ‘moisture !
evaporates, their: ‘keeping qualities’

_LAMB RIB CHOPS, BROILED i
GREEK STYLE=
i Lamb ‘recipes donot have! to |
take Jong to, prepare: This: recipe :
is very” quick,’ and flavorful as.
well. Just don’t overcook the
‘meat.
Remove the bone from lamb rib
chops or lamb shoulder: steak, ‘1°:
° prefer. the shoulder steak . be use:

“itis a bit moister.

Pound the-meat fairly: “thin: us.
ing’ a metal meat. pounder. Brush
“with ‘olive. oil . and «© garlic, :

oregano,” Ds ;
2 Grill Cor ‘broil, quickly so the.’
“meat ° remains , tender. Use: high
heat for thise...0° 2° woe
_ BARLEY PUDDING
» WITH LAMB::::: “
~ Geetves 6 as a main course) - * <
, This dish .goes back tothe. se
cond: ‘century. BC. The flavors are -
unusual for. us,:but this -kind ‘of -
food, was evidently very: common”
in ancient. times. - I have. eas a

cups! water. =
2 teaspoons sat

3 cloves garlic, « crushed
“1 cup barley
2 tablespoons alive o}
-Plac
‘garlic: -in’'a . four-quart, heavy -,
covered | saucepan. Bring to’a boil,
turn to a simmer, cover : and cook:
for 2 hours. ° : Os
Remove’ ‘all: from: the:

he water, salt, lamb and © a

pots, 7:

fat from’. the ‘proth - and add
- enough water to make 6 cups.

‘Place the’. barley':in- a grain,
“ grinder’ and grind’ very coarsely. |
You want something like groats or:
“bulgur wheat in terms of texture.
‘Stir the olive oil into the barley «
:. groats and ‘place. in’ the: pan.
Return.“the’’ meat’ “and: measured ©
_ broth: tothe: pan? and bring to: a!
- light, boil.’

: Simmer, bs

covered, . for.

minutes or-until the barley i is:soft.”
and...
". sprinkle with salt and -Peppe and,
and set aside, covered, ‘to ‘keep:

and tasty, and the. liquid i i absorb-

"Serve: ‘this: with’ crusty ‘talian
‘bread or; with pita bread.” Eat’ the
‘ pudding “with |. the: bread fo
* rather, heavy: but. simply: delicious.
“meal. 3

GRILLED LAMB CUB
“GREEK STYLE)": °
is ‘a simple ’ dish’ ‘that’ one
sees ‘in the \villages ‘outside, Athens.

ery ‘close’ to what you wou

‘in beautiful Greece. :

- garli y} Oregano - and fresh # enon
_juice. for about ‘3. hours. The: ‘meat
“cubes are’ then’ put? on Sticks an

grilled” over “charcoal fires. You

barbecue ‘will do welle

“reserving the broth. - Remove . the ~ ;

“ally and as they oak! es
As all’ eggs - age, “they: lose
moisture © through - ‘their; ‘porous’
The” older: the “egg, «

Gradually, the’ air space “at the’
end of the egg enlarges to become...
a depressed half moon. —;

This shrinking is exaggerated in
ancient ‘eggs. which become «so-

As‘ much © of
incréase.:. .
When *:hard- boiling ‘eges, . you
may: have noticed a‘ green: deposit;
which forms easily on the yolk. :
. This: is ferrous’; sulfide and it
results: when -iron from’ the yolk:

“combines with hydrogen ‘ sulfide’
from «sulfur, compounds in ithe! ‘
whites: poFe en i

the).

‘he:
‘due :to Teactio
and protein:

ieee BBS to” be hard-boiled":
just: toa: boil, then’ turn ‘the heat

off. and” ‘Tet : the | eggs .sit~ for, 20°

minutes. - Cool quickly” in. ‘cold

Color changes are also | more apt ©

“to occur’ when’ the egg is "markedly.
* ‘alkaline.’ ‘The longer: eggs are kept,”
“ thet more alkaline they becom

“Thus, ‘the. ordinary: ‘hard-b
* egg" can... ‘assume a cnumbe: :
* guises, from chopped ‘in: the mid-::

dle of.’ your sandwich toa ‘Striking a

-ebony appetizer...) 80
‘Therein: lies: the. fascination of.
. working with food. -

et