16 - Friday, May 23, 1986 - North Shore News Key Largo unlocks Cajun cuisine AFTER RUNNING through more restaurants in the last year than James Barber, the building at 61 Lonsdale has fi- nally corralled a winner. Key Largo is bright, uptempo ~ and informal. But best of all, it is . highly professional and has the all-important \.edible. ingredients that are sure to dispatch the. bad tastes left in the mouths of. those who have patronized the location in the past.. Billed as a tropical grill and nightspot, the restaurant has replaced crackpot motifs amateur ownership with a‘ breezy Caribbean bar- atmosphere : and talented staff. . Tropically, we have the- rain; gastronomically, owners Al Canale and Gino Coletta have the talent.. Canale handles Key Largo’s front: end. “Coletta, Canale’s .cous-. iu, performs’ in the. kitchen. - It is ~ thus far ‘a “highly ‘successful i wo, sion of labor. ‘Canale ‘is genuinely cory ,and sociable; Coletta cooks" inspiration and vigor. The restaurant’s menu’ has | nothing over $12. Selection’ is.-a.- crackling blend . of Italian verve” and tropical snap. :- ‘Oysters, fresh and unadulterated fromthe shell ($1.10 each), are _ “served with Louisiana. hot . sauce. “Clams ($5. 95): come’ ‘steamed: with . white wine and Jalapeno butter. “The dozen Key Largo entrees ar are. . simple but never dull. pecans ($9. 30). bye ($9.75) and “imported : “beer. _ table: hopping “by Timothy. ~ Renshaw a “ there.is ‘steak -— New: York cut ($11.95) with © Peppercorn sauce — and, for those of modest appetite, pasta — stuffed with crab ($7.95). . ‘Key, Largo shoots for the social- ly” conscious. sét_ who indulge in _Its. atmosphere shuffles: along’ to a soundtrack of -modern music‘ ‘that i is comfortably’ od. gumbo ‘and ‘revives .. Off the Top’ 40: Casual pleated . slacks’° and. Hawaiian ‘shirts - abound. Humphrey Bogart imita- * tions .. ‘are. tolerated, but): not: of ee Seals, TROPICAL -